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Oil leak middle drive gear pulley

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  • #21
    Look on the inside of the spacer, there should be a slight taper at one end. The id taper goes inward.

    I can't remember which way the outside taper goes, just make sure the inside taper goes in.

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    • #22
      Originally posted by Duke View Post
      Look on the inside of the spacer, there should be a slight taper at one end. The id taper goes inward.

      I can't remember which way the outside taper goes, just make sure the inside taper goes in.
      Will do. Thank you very much!

      Comment


      • #23
        Originally posted by jluisochoa View Post
        This is the way the collar was installed. The tappered side facing out & the flat side inside the oil seal.
        Is it backwards Duke ?
        Tappered side out on my 2006 and has never been removed. i don't know what the other side looks like cause it's never been out but side against the pulley is definitely tappered

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        • Duke
          Duke commented
          Editing a comment
          The OD taper of the spacer is what you are saying?

      • #24
        Ok guys, I installed the O-ring, collar, pulley and nut. I torqued the nut, put the cover back on and after a short test ride (53miles) no leaking anymore. I've should pay more attention in the future because all I needed was to tighten the nut as you told me.
        But here's what I've learned that maybe can help others in the future.

        Before buying anything:

        1.-Disassemble cover and pulley and clean it all and surrounding areas that got splashed with oil.
        2.-Install the pulley.
        3.-Tighten the nut to at least 85 n-m/61 ft-lb. I do not over torque but it's up to you. Do not bend the lock washer tab yet. I broke one. Do not use Loctite yet.
        4.-Install the cover. I used only the 2 rearmost bolts (long ones) and the one in the front for the test ride.

        Go for a ride and check if the leak persists.
        If there's no leak, go to step 7.

        If the leak persits:

        The step 5 is optional and applies to my case in particular.

        When dissasembling, check what side of the collar is out so you can re-install it the same way. Mine had a type of conical tip where the pulley seats perfect.

        5.-Replace O-ring and repeat above steps. Why this? Because I tought it was the problem and discarded the O-ring. Even some of you already had told me it looked ok and all I needded was to tighten the nut. I was dumb for not listen, and was lost with fixation and mindset for the cheapest fix (O-ring)
        You maybe could skip this step. Highly experienced brothers here had the answer and told me.

        6.-Ok, if the leak persists you may nedd to buy the oil seal, O-ring, and maybe the collar.

        7.-Install everything. Now you can use Loctite if you want and bend the lock washer tab after tighten the nut.

        Please correct this as you want.

        Thank you all for the help.
        I feel privileged for being part of this group.

        Comment


        • #25
          the 2 times I have messed with my nut (hehe) I ordered 2 seals, 2 lock tabs and 2 O-rings. I now carry them as spares. I also bought a new nut the first time so I had a spare. The seals and O-ring are cheap, Especially when stranded. I would suggest using something stronger than the regular red locktite as it will break loose.
          2000 Roadstar 1600 - BAK, Pumpless, Curt's manifold, Mikuni HSR42 Freedom Combat Pipes Jumbo Strong bags, PPG 'HellFire' Paint.

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          • #26
            Yep, I go "nuts" sometimes Mostly because this is the first bike I've worked and fixed on mechanical issues. And I love it. Very well designed, easy to maintain and has forgave me a lot of mistakes.
            Not a bad idea to have those spares.

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            • #27
              When you think about spare parts, remember the tools that you need to do the repair. Spares don't do you any good if you can't install them. I brought the big socket and breaker bar on my last group ride, just in case we had any other loose nuts.
              Manuals, Roadwing, other stuff
              PGR
              PGT MT

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              • #28
                You're absolutely right Tykes_Place . To fix this, I bought the 36mm socket and the o-ring. I've done it before. The first time I dismounted the front wheel I bought the 23mm socket.
                But you'll find difficult to get the right ones if you ride with more than 3 people Tykes_Place . You'll realize there's so many loose nuts.

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                • #29
                  They must of changed pulley nuts at sometime, mine is a 30mm and the washer is the conical type and has a marking that says outside on it. You stake the nut to the shaft.

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                  • #30
                    Could be the year or the model maybe? Mine RS Midnight 2005. My shaft is 30mm diameter. No pun intended.

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