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  • Oil leak middle drive gear pulley

    Hey guys. I'm in need of your expertise again. A few days ago i noticed an red oil spot on the floor under the middle drive gear cover. Turns out there's a little leak from the shaft. I released a bit of tension from the V-Belt, removed the pulley and cleaned all. Went for a short test ride and found the leak is still there. It's a small leak but removed all again. The oil seal looks fine. Is it possible that replacing the O-ring solve the problem? Is it possible to remove the collar (yellow in the picture) to replace the O-ring (red) withouth removing the oil seal?
    Thank you in advance.

  • #2
    Yes, the collar should slip right off after removing the pulley.
    Was your pulley nut loose?

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Duke View Post
      Yes, the collar should slip right off after removing the pulley.
      Was your pulley nut loose?
      Thank you Duke. And yes, after I flattened the washer lock tab I unscrewed the nut by hand.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thats the problem. Nut should be tight. I replaced seal and o-ring then lock tite on pully nut.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by JoeBloShmo View Post
          Thats the problem. Nut should be tight. I replaced seal and o-ring then lock tite on pully nut.
          Thank you JoeBloShmo. Found this torque values. Hopefully the O-ring and tightening works otherwise I will do as you did.

          Comment


          • #6
            I put a high strength loctite, that is a higher bonding than just the regular red "high strength", I forget the number but it was suggested to me when I tackled that job a few years ago.
            2000 Roadstar 1600 - BAK, Pumpless, Curt's manifold, Mikuni HSR42 Freedom Combat Pipes Jumbo Strong bags, PPG 'HellFire' Paint.

            Comment


            • #7
              How did the nut loosen if the tab washer was still bent? The washer must be damaged. It should lock to the shaft on the ID and then bend over the nut on the OD to keep it from backing off.

              Comment


              • #8
                Will do that Jaybo​​Jaybo Thanks.

                davej You're right. The tab was bent holding the nut in position. But the nut was loose as once I released the lock I turned it by hand.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Forgot to tell it's a 2005 Midnight.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I had the same leak. Tab was bent over but the nut was loose. The tab just keeps the nut from coming totally off. It doesn't keep it torqued.

                    I pulled everything and cleaned it all up. My o-ring was fine. Reassembled and torqued the nut and it fixed the leak. I used yellow Loctite.
                    Manuals, Roadwing, other stuff
                    PGR
                    PGT MT

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Tykes_Place I just did the same except for the loctite. Will do a test ride and see how it goes. Gonna get me some yellow loctite also. Thank you very much!
                      ​​​​​​ 85 nm/8.5 m-kgf/61 ft-lb torque should do it I think.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I just replaced the nut and washer on my front pulley. The washer I got from the parts place was one that is concaved with marking that say outside. Is this the correct washer for the front pulley nut? I also torqued the nut to 87 lbs per the manual.

                        Comment


                        • davej
                          davej commented
                          Editing a comment
                          that is a conical spring washer and that is what it calls for on the parts list.

                      • #13
                        Originally posted by NCB View Post
                        I just replaced the nut and washer on my front pulley. The washer I got from the parts place was one that is concaved with marking that say outside. Is this the correct washer for the front pulley nut? I also torqued the nut to 87 lbs per the manual.
                        Couldn't say NCB Mine is flat and without markings. My RS is 2005 and don't know if they changed for different year or model. As long as it does hold the nut in place, should be fine.

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          I believe the setup(nut/washer)is different depending on the year. At least the nut size is. With the shafts all being the same I would get the nut and washer from the 07-newer. I haven't had mine apart in years and don't remember exactly what washer it has on it. All I know is that if isn't locked to the shaft somehow it isn't doing much good. If any of you have ever seen a hub nut on a set of truck rear duals with the same type of bendable tab washer, The washer has a tab on the ID that locks in a slot on the axle. Once the tab is bent to the nut it can't spin loose unless the ID tab is broken. According to what is listed on the parts list they use a conical spring washer. Well that isn't locked to the shaft and that is why it is basically useless. Red loctite is the answer.

                          Looking at the parts fiche it looks like the older bikes washer has 1 inner tab that locks into a slot on the shaft on the ID

                          The 2005 has a washer with splines cut on the ID to lock to the splines of the shaft.

                          07 has a Conical spring washer that don't lock to the shaft at all. (Makes no sense to me)

                          Comment


                          • NCB
                            NCB commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Yea, Dave I saw the washer that was for the older model that is what thru me? I ordered what it calls for and got the conical washer. It is concave to hold pressure on the nut I assume. This is the second time I got away with no damage after the nut backed off! I used red loctite this time and 87lbs of torque!

                        • #15
                          Good morning guys.
                          Being an obssesive dumb, the first thing I did early this morning was to dissasemble again to remove the collar. I need to find out if replacing the O-ring could fix the problem. That means the cheaper way. I'm from Chihuahua in the border with Texas and NM. Where one can drive 3 hours and get all you want for the bike. But here in Yucatan where I live it's much like Central America and the RS, I believe, was selled only one or two years in Mexico so no spare parts. And the shipping costs are bigger than the prices.
                          Also checked the gear oil level and go figure, I overfilled it. Maybe it helped to cause the leak. So I drained to the correct level with the bike in the upright position (not one degree to either side as my obssesion dictates) and now I'm waiting for the stores to open (10 or 11AM) to go and get the O-ring. It's very thin by design so wish me luck. Otherwise I'll install the one closer in thickness that I can get here.
                          It came out when I pulled the collar. Gonna get the yellow Loctite also.
                          I broke one of the tabs of the washer lock. I'll go to the Yamaha dealer here to embarrass the parts department guys asking for that lock nut.

                          Thank you all and I'll keep you posted.

                          Comment


                          • #16
                            Is that o-ring damaged? It looks fine in the picture. It acts more like a gasket in this location. So as long as it fits around the shaft without any play it could be fine.

                            Proper torque is 85 ftlbs. I torqued mine to 100.

                            By the way, I used yellow Loctite because it says that it's a strong as red, but isn't as permanent.
                            Manuals, Roadwing, other stuff
                            PGR
                            PGT MT

                            Comment


                            • #17
                              Originally posted by Tykes_Place View Post
                              Is that o-ring damaged? It looks fine in the picture. It acts more like a gasket in this location. So as long as it fits around the shaft without any play it could be fine.

                              Proper torque is 85 ftlbs. I torqued mine to 100.

                              By the way, I used yellow Loctite because it says that it's a strong as red, but isn't as permanent.
                              The O-ring looks in good shape but kinda loose around the shaft. Don't know if it's because is thin or worn out. I'll replace it anyway to be on the safe side.

                              Comment


                              • Jaybo
                                Jaybo commented
                                Editing a comment
                                and buy a spare!

                              • Jaybo
                                Jaybo commented
                                Editing a comment
                                and buy a spare!

                            • #18
                              Don't forget that the inner part of the spacer has one side that's tapered on the end. That end goes towards the o-ring.

                              Comment


                              • #19
                                Originally posted by Duke View Post
                                Don't forget that the inner part of the spacer has one side that's tapered on the end. That end goes towards the o-ring.
                                Got it! Thank you Duke

                                Comment


                                • #20
                                  This is the way the collar was installed. The tappered side facing out & the flat side inside the oil seal.
                                  Is it backwards Duke ?

                                  Comment

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