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  • Barnett clutch assy issue

    I installed a new Barnett clutch assy on my RS, which previously had a Barnett pressure plate with the standard springs, standard bearing and with the OEM clutch discs.
    What I installed is a new Barnett pressure plate with the bearing upgrade, the heavy duty springs, and a set of Barnett clutch discs.

    But it seems that the clutch will never release completely:

    - The bike will move in gear even with the clutch lever pulled, not "jumping" but slowly moving nonetheless
    - Switching to neutral is a PITA with the engine on. OK with the engine off though
    - Shifting in general is a PITA. Engaging first gear is kinda OK but upshifting to 2nd and up is a piece of work

    What's Ive tried so far:

    Adjusting the clutch cable

    - At 1mm slack: the bike will really pull in gear with the clutch depressed, and will stall with the brakes on to prevent the previously mentioned pull
    - No slack: pulls less, but still enough to make the bike move with me on it. Braking will give the engine some work (you can feel the RPM dropping and the engine working against the friction) but not enough to stall
    - Maximum cable tension: the bike still move in gear if I sit up, indicating that is still some friction. The pull is not enough to make it move with me on the saddle though, and it doesn't seem to give to much work to the engine. Switching to neutral with the engine running become possible but still a PITA. Shifting through gears is a bit better but still a struggle

    Breaking lose the plates

    - I thought about the new plates sticking together so I tried to engage in gears with the front wheel against a wall (with the clutch lever pulled of course) and to rev the engine a bit. No success

    Adjusting the shifting rod

    - I thought I might have inadvertently changed the linkage length when I put it back so I tried various length, no success

    This is starting to be a bit frustrating...Any suggestions?

  • #2
    Why did you go with the heavier springs? Should have stuck with OEM Yamaha for discs and steels...people have had issues in the past with Barnett discs and steels. You could have just ordered a $10 upgraded bearing and put it in your existing Barnett pressure plate. Almost zero reason for the heavier than stock Barnett springs that come with the pressure plate unless you have a big bore motor with all supporting modifications putting out 95hp to the tire.

    hat to say it...since you just spent over $300....but get a set of clutch discs and steels from Yamaha and use the normal springs that came with the Barnett spring conversion kit.

    are you selling the older Barnett pressure plate by chance?
    LET'S RIDE

    Comment


    • #3
      Lug Nut, see this thread for the reasons behind the purchase:

      https://www.roadstarclinic.com/forum...formance/page2

      On the first page of the thread you will find a list of the performance upgrades.
      I might sell the plate, which is an excellent state BTW, but I keep it for the time being because I'm thinking about getting another RS for my next build project.

      Comment


      • #4
        Did you soak the new plates in oil before installation? If so it will probably have to come back apart to insure the thickness of the new plate matched to OEM spec and to make sure everything is put back in the proper order and nothing jammed up.Also make sure the lever on the clutch housing is installed on the proper spline

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by davej View Post
          Did you soak the new plates in oil before installation? If so it will probably have to come back apart to insure the thickness of the new plate matched to OEM spec and to make sure everything is put back in the proper order and nothing jammed up.Also make sure the lever on the clutch housing is installed on the proper spline

          What davej means is that the clutch pull lever needs to be clocked on the splined shaft to a specific location. With your thumb rotate the lever (arrow) to remove any free play and take a measurement. If incorrect, remove it and clock it till you do. This will give you the best mechanical advantage on travel and ease of pull.

          If that doesn’t work, something isn’t right with the internal workings.


          Comment


          • #6
            Ron, thanks for the spec. That is my guess. If that measurement is to large by 1 spline you will not be able to disengage the clutch enough regardless of free play.

            Comment


            • #7
              I’m betting installation of the plates in the basket isn’t right.

              Comment


              • #8
                Yes, I did soak the plates in oil before installation.
                Regarding the plates installation, that would be presumptuous to say that I'm 100% sure they are right since I can't look at them right now, but I spent 8hrs on this job, religiously double and triple checking everything, so I would say that there is very little chance it comes from a wrong plates order.
                Bikkerron, I've been looking at the specs you posted (I've been digging the topic as you can imagine...) and I'll check the position tomorrow. I might have to shorten my cable to get the right spine position without slack.
                During my browsing on the topic, I've read the experience of a Raider - not RS - owner who installed Barnett plates along with the clutch pressure plate and his feedback is a rough shifting and a clutch that never fully disengage, his bike "walks" when in gear with the clutch lever pulled. He can still shift though, I got the exact same symptoms but more pronounced, making the bike barely rideable.

                Comment


                • Bikerron
                  Bikerron commented
                  Editing a comment
                  “ I've been looking at the specs you posted (I've been digging the topic as you can imagine...) and I'll check the position tomorrow. I might have to shorten my cable to get the right spine position without slack.”

                  No sir. Cable adjustment comes later. You first must rotate the splined clutch shaft CCW by pushing the lever with your thumb until there is resistance. You’re removing all the free play at the throw out bearing. This is when you take the measurement at the lever pictured. If out of spec you must remove the arm and install a spline or two over in the right direction until the measurement is correct.

                  The clutch is obviously dragging because the plates are not separating enough to disengage the clutch. Makes for serious abuse to the tranny gears, shift forks, shift drum, and linkage.

                • davej
                  davej commented
                  Editing a comment
                  All that means is that the guy that has the RS that pulls in gear doesn't have something done proper with his installation also.

                • Leiurus
                  Leiurus commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I think you misread me Bikerron. I'm fully aware of the lever rotation to remove the free play. What I mean is that in this position, my cable in its shortest adjustment might still be too short for a fit without excessive slack. This cable is not stock, it's a custom line (PM clutch lever). And I'm also aware of the stress put in the tranny, which is precisely why Im seeking a solution instead of stomping the shift pedal.

              • #9
                When you put the pressure plate on, did you make sure the teeth on the plate matched up to the inner cage teeth?
                It should have been obvious when you put it together.

                I purchased a Barnett pressure plate that the teeth didn't quite line up, and I had to send it back to Barnett for replacement. They were very quick with taking care of it for me. Buy the way, I've used the Barnett's clutch kit in one of my bikes, and their clutches work perfectly well. Like Dave said, check the specs on the plates and steels.

                Comment


                • #10
                  https://www.roadstarclinic.com/forum...arnett-s-plate

                  Check out this page.

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    Did you put the steels in the proper orientation and all facing the same way? Reinstall the safety wire?
                    LET'S RIDE

                    Comment


                    • Spydr
                      Spydr commented
                      Editing a comment
                      The "safety wire" is not necessary.

                    • J89k
                      J89k commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Spydr For real? That was the shittiest part of the whole rebuild lol

                    • Spydr
                      Spydr commented
                      Editing a comment
                      A mechanic who owns a Roadstar suggested that it wasn't really necessary, so I left it off... 10,000 miles ago.

                  • #12
                    OK, the pull lever position on the pull lever shaft is correct AND my cable is short enough to reduce slack to zero, although flirting with the edge of the adjustment threshold.
                    Lug Nut, yes I did change the safety wire, I even installed a new one (Yamaha part of course), it turned out that the previous one was broken, although still sitting in the groove.
                    Regarding the steel plates orientation, the Barnett plates don't have the texture surfacing that the Yamahas have. The Yams ones have these dots on one side, that must be oriented outwards, but the Barnett are flat on both sides.
                    Duke, the plate did match the teeth, no particular issue here. That's actually why I'm puzzled, I mentioned that I spent hours on this but that's because I took extensive time to double / triple check each steps and because scrapping the gasket residue to achieve a mirror finish on the engine and cover took me ages, but in itself the installation hasn't been a struggle. I didn't have to force anything down in place or faced any "Mmmm, this thing doesn't fit" moment, it went very smoothly overall.
                    I'm good to get back at it seems, I think I will put back the Yamaha clutch plates. There were not installed completely right (the two notches you're supposed to line up at the bottom right side of the inner cage were all over the place...) but are in good state nevertheless. I'd like to check the thickness of the Barnett plates though, does someone have the thickness specs at the back of his mind?

                    Comment


                    • J89k
                      J89k commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I just installed OEM plates. They had dots on both sides.

                      Also older yammies have to line up the single notch on the double embossed circles instead of the double notch (I think it's 05 and older though it may be 04).

                  • #13
                    I imagine if you use new Yamaha steels and discs and just leave the wire off you'll be fine...
                    LET'S RIDE

                    Comment


                    • #14
                      Guys, thank you all for chiming in, everything you took the time to share has been duly noted.
                      I'll get back at it when I receive the new gasket (I ordered a couple this time, just in case...) and when I have a free 1/2 day of daylight. I will let you know how it went.

                      Comment


                      • #15
                        If your lucky, you might be able to reuse your old gasket since you have just put it together.

                        A little trick I learned about gaskets through out the years. If you glue the gasket to the cover, then use anti-seize on the case surface, you'll be able to pull the cover off later with out messing up the gasket.
                        So far, I've been able to reuse the gaskets, and haven't had any leaks.

                        Comment

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