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Back pressure in '99 oil tank

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  • Back pressure in '99 oil tank

    A few years ago I replaced the engine in my 1999 Roadstar with a 2003 midnight Roadstar. My '99 had high commission pistons and the carb was jetted to compensate. The '03 was stock and I forgot to take that into consideration, resulting in a stuck valve. I stopped riding it for a while till I could fix the issue. I heard I might be able to un-stick the valve if I added some seafoam and took it out and really hammered on it, so I did. When I pulled back into my driveway (valve still stuck) I heard something that sounded like bubbling from the oil tank. When I took the dipstick out it exploded about a quart of oil all over me my bike and driveway. Haven't ridden it since (it's a shame I know) now I'd like to get it back on the road but don't want the oil tank to explode underneath me, I'm almost at my end with this problem after problem, and haven't look into it much but is it something really stupid I've just overlooked? I need help!

  • #2
    How is your crankcase vented?

    Comment


    • toneloc402
      toneloc402 commented
      Editing a comment
      I'll have to look and get back to you

  • #3
    I'm wondering if the vent line from the tank to the engine is clear. Also wondering how not rejetting would cause a stuck valve.
    Scott B.

    Comment


    • toneloc402
      toneloc402 commented
      Editing a comment
      I'll check on that, and shores (the comment just after you) answered the question

  • #4
    Originally posted by texasscott1 View Post
    ...............Also wondering how not rejetting would cause a stuck valve.
    If it was running rich this carbons up the valves and guides.

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    • #5
      You didn’t, by chance, pull the dipstick while the bike was still running, did you?

      That’d be a no-no.

      Comment


      • #6
        That was MY question, too... Was the bike running? If so, they'll ALL do that. Don't even ask me how I know this!!!

        Comment


        • #7
          As its' been said; do NOTremove dip stick while the engine is running, or yes, you get covered in oil. As for the stuck valves, pull the exhaust and spray a *LOT* of SeaFoam *DeepCreep* inside the exhaust port and let it sit at least a day, You want to soak everything in there *really* good. It may take a couple treatments. Don't worry, it will smoke *a lot* when you first start the motor, that's just the Seafoam and is normal, It will quickly dissipate.

          You you should also run a *few* tanks of gas with regular SeaFoam to clean out much of the build up. Normally you only need a few ounces of regular SeaFoam in the tank to keep things clean, but if you have a stuck valve, you want to do a "shock treatment" and put half a can of regular SeaFoam in a full tank of gas. Once you're through with everything, and you get the bike running normal again, you'll want to change the oil and filter because you'll have a lot of carbon and other crud in the oil. It probably wouldn't hurt to put a couple of ounces of regular SeaFoam in your oil too during the shock treatment before changing your oi. It will help clean out the internals.

          Click image for larger version  Name:	dc14.jpg Views:	3 Size:	27.3 KB ID:	69126
          Last edited by Doc_V; 04-26-2019, 09:29 AM.

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          • #8
            How did you diagnose a stuck valve? Also keep in mind that if you previously had an engine on your bike with high compression pistons you should have a Dyna 3000 ignition on the bike that would be set to the wrong timing curve. The HC pistons use the "B" curve and standard pistons use the "A" curve settings. You need to change the Dyna 3000 timing curve to either 32A or 34A.

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            • #9
              I'm almost certain it was off when I checked the oil, because that's how I heard it bubbling or gurgling, but it was so long ago now I can't say for sure, hopefully that's all it was.

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              • #10
                Davej I first noticed an odd idle sound, so I put a piece of paper to the exhaust and once every few lopes it would suck the paper into the exhaust pipe. Also thanks for the ignition info I had no idea

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                • #11
                  Doc_v and Davej that'll be my next step in progress thanks for the help

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                  • #12
                    toneloc402 didn't say if it was a stuck intake or exhaust valve. A stuck exhaust valve could actually be a stuck compression release solenoid or linkage.

                    Comment


                    • #13
                      Thanks Chooch, something else I'll be sure to look into

                      Comment


                      • #14
                        I have an 07 1700 Roadstar. I just checked my oil recently and it was all good. Went for a good rip today out to a buddies place. We hung out for a bit, fired up the bike and moved it up to the shop, about 30 feet, ran fine. About an hour later bike wouldn’t stay running at idle for very long like 10 to 30 seconds. So we started poking around and among other things found the dipstick reading was way high. Now the bike lurched with the clutch engaged at starting. Sound familiar to anyone?

                        Comment


                        • Bikerron
                          Bikerron commented
                          Editing a comment
                          “Now the bike lurched with the clutch engaged at starting. Sound familiar to anyone?”

                          What are you saying? The bike rolled forward when you hit the starter button with the bike in gear and the clutch released? Why would you want to do that?

                          If that’s the case you have a bypassed, or bad, clutch handle safety switch. And don’t try to start a bike in gear even with the clutch pulled. Poor starter has a hard enough time turning over that engine in neutral.

                      • #15
                        The dipstick is notoriously inaccurate. Most of us never use it. we put four courts in at an oil change and never check the oil until the next oil change. there's no reason to unless you are obviously leaking oil down onto the ground. These engines do not consume much oil. hopefully you have not added more oil based on the dipstick reading because that usually results in overfilling. There is a specific way to check the oil. you bring the engine to operating temperature, let it idle for 30 seconds and then check it with the bike centered.

                        Comment


                        • Horsehammerr
                          Horsehammerr commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Don't forget to SHUT IT OFF after 30 second idle , then check Dip Stick .

                      • #16
                        Just changed the oil so I’m certain there was only 4 quarts in. Thought it odd that it would read so high and once I got her running a bit later it was reading fine. Went for a good rip later and again the next day, ran like a top.

                        Comment


                        • #17
                          Originally posted by DikW View Post
                          Just changed the oil so I’m certain there was only 4 quarts in. Thought it odd that it would read so high and once I got her running a bit later it was reading fine. Went for a good rip later and again the next day, ran like a top.
                          Make sure you drained both plugs, one for the engine and one for the oil tank for a combined total of 4 quarts.

                          Comment


                          • #18
                            There’s always so much information and good advise on the R*Clinic. Definitely drained both plugs and just used 4 quarts though. Just thought it was weird to see the oil pushed so high up it was visible in the filler tube and then back to where it should be once she started again.

                            Comment


                            • #19
                              The oil level is to be checked with the oil at approximately 140 degrees. When the oil is cold there is a thick film over the inside of the engine. As the oil heats up and the film thins out the very efficient return side of the oil pump is able to return more to the tank. If I check mine after a highway run on a hot day the level will be almost to the top of the stick which is normal.
                              Scott B.

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