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Sticky Lifter - What are the options?

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  • Shores
    replied
    I would change this while your at it. Get it at O’Reilly Auto.

    https://www.oreillyauto.com/flux-capacitor

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    replied
    So just soak the lifters in oil ahead of time and don't mix up the pushrods? That's it? There's got to be more, what about inspecting any potential damage, what should I look for? Will it be obvious?

    Leave a comment:


  • Rodzim
    replied
    if you are not changing cams you dont need any special lube. I soak them in oil for about an hour before i install new lifters. You can buy assembly lube if you want but regular oil will wotk just fine in your case.
    i remember adjusting my lash to 0, but i might be wrong. Thats on one valve only. The other should be self adjusting via the pushrod.
    the special break in oil is needed to break in the cam, not the lifters. The lifters are hardened and you will not hurt them. 99%of lifters get replaced because of hydraulic system leaks, not physical damage.
    So, to summarize, soak the new lifters in oil for about an hour and install them.
    one tip on the valve cover gaskets, i apply a layer of copper spray on both sides before i install them. If you do this you reduce your chances of leaks due to warped surfaces. Plus you dont have to overtorque the m6 bolts which are extremely easy to strip. Dont use a torque wrench on those. Good and tight will do just fine. make sure the gaskets and surfaces are free of oil and dry.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    replied
    Thanks guys, but what about stuff like soaking the lifters? I feel like there are some *very* important steps that need to be taken that's being left out. And what about lube paste? [can't recall correct name] I've never done a full ending build but I do recall there's some sort of special lube required for something like this, but don't get it on the sides?? What about break in? What fluid do I use, how do I do it? etc.

    While I'm at it, and the pushrods are out, what about adjust ing the valve [lash for lack of a better word] Assuming both are equal, Curt used to say to set them to zero. I think the manual says max clearance should be .004. What are your thoughts?

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Doc_V; 01-20-2019, 11:48 AM.

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  • Rodzim
    commented on 's reply
    Yes, my bad. I meant pushrods

  • davej
    replied
    Originally posted by Rodzim View Post
    well, i concur with replacing them if you have the skill. If they are bleeding down overnight and they pump back up after a while, no amount of trans fluid would help. I thought they were stuck for good and thats why i suggested tranny fluid.
    its not that hard to do, just pop the valve covers and rocker arms, lifter tubes, holders and then lifters. Make a very good note of where the lifters came from. Its extremely important
    Do you mean make sure you note where the push rods come from? Lifters being replaced not important where the old ones come from

    Leave a comment:


  • Rodzim
    replied
    well, i concur with replacing them if you have the skill. If they are bleeding down overnight and they pump back up after a while, no amount of trans fluid would help. I thought they were stuck for good and thats why i suggested tranny fluid.
    its not that hard to do, just pop the valve covers and rocker arms, lifter tubes, holders and then lifters. Make a very good note of where the lifters came from. Its extremely important

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    replied
    Thanks Duke! I've been reading on Warrior forum and it looks like they've done it too with no prob. Now I just need to find the procedure.

    Leave a comment:


  • Duke
    replied
    I purchased the lifters thru Summit racing for a basket case bike I picked up last fall. The only thing I've done to it, is completely tore it down. Have checked all of the engine components and ordered parts to put it back together.
    So, no Doc, I have not installed them yet. I've been working on my other bike, oil pressure gauge, floor boards, clutch, complete service, and right now, lowering the saddle bags while trying to get my welding skills back up to par.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    replied
    Thanks Scott, BTW, I noticed you mentioned PMing a procedure to Duke in his thread, is that something you can post here?

    Leave a comment:


  • scottw
    replied
    Doc,just about any local auto part store can order sealed power engine parts/lifters,you should also be able to get them from Rock auto,Summit racing,Jeg's too.

    Scott

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    replied
    Duke, I just found your thread about the Sealed Power Lifters, where'd you get them and have you installed them yet?

    Leave a comment:


  • Duke
    commented on 's reply
    I believe that #37 is the oil sprayer for oiling the cam and lifter bottoms

  • Jeaston
    replied

    What your describing does sound like lifter leak down. I agree with TexasScott1.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    replied
    When it goes away, it's almost instantaneous, but its taking longer and longer for that to happen. And lately, if I pull to a stop shortly after the noise stopped, it will start again but more quietly. After about 5 mins it goes away completely.

    Also, it got better when I added about 4oz. of Seafoam to the oil, but it's gotten worse since the oil change. On a side note: for ages I've noticed on occasion when I turn the bike off I'll hear an extra "puff" out the exhaust. I just assumed it was normal; could that be related?
    Last edited by Doc_V; 01-18-2019, 03:00 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • texasscott1
    replied
    Question - does the noise slowly go away after the engine is run a little bit or does it have to get good and hot before it quits suddenly? Since the Seafoam didn't help it sounds to me more like a lifter leaking down. Since the engine stops with one or the other of the exhaust valves being held open it could be time for new lifters.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    commented on 's reply
    That was something else that was load dependent. The sticking only happens when the bike is cold and has been going on for a while. It even happened back in July at the dealership in Bend, OR but it was only occasionally back then, now it happens every time the bike has sat over night.

  • Jeaston
    replied
    Just throwing this out there.
    If you get that deep into the lifters. You should replace the two o-rings on #37. (#38 and 39 two differant part numbers)
    I believe this pipe is a oiler for the lifters.
    I did it on my 01 when I was In there. Not difficult to do.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shores
    replied
    Originally posted by Doc_V View Post
    It's a very loud *clacking* noise that only happens when the motor is cold. You can hear it from 50 feet away. The motor also runs rough until it stops and when it does stop it's very obvious like someone flipped a switch.
    Hey Lance, how long does it take to warm up and quit clacking? Are you sure it’s not the upper end? Didn’t you just replace the rocker arm shafts?

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    replied
    OK, so if I'm understanding this correctly, drain two quarts of oil and replace with two quarts of ATF? What kind of ATF and how long do I run it like this? Just ride like normal? Also, any recommendations on what zinc additive to use and how much to use?

    Thanks all.

    Leave a comment:

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