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brake bleeding NIGHTMARE! Need help please!!!

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  • brake bleeding NIGHTMARE! Need help please!!!

    So I have my buddy's bike here in my garage, he had me put new calipers and front master cylinder on it among a few other things and I am having a devil of a time getting these brakes to bleed and get a nice solid lever feel. I will say that it has braided lines on it.

    I bench bled the calipers, so good to go there, install went easy peasy. put the new master cylinder on, no issues.

    I tried my mighty vac to no avail, still no lever feel. Tried shores method of reverse pleading by using a syringe on the bleeder screw and forcing fluid up into the master, that worked great no bubbles and some lever feel back. Perfect I thought, brakes grip nice and tight but now they wont retract you can hear those new EBC brakes scraping like mad when trying to spin the front wheel on the lift like they are once again dragging.

    So I thought to myself, ok, must still be some air in the lines somewhere. So I crack the bleeder with the lever pulled after pumping them up and now I cant get any lever tension back until I shove fluid back in with the syringe via the bleeder screw. so now I am at my wits end. The mighty vac isn't getting enough of a seal to get a constant stream of fluid from the bleeders and even if I do get the right seal on the nipple, I can't get the lever to pump back up to tension again.


    Any help is very much appreciated. I am 99% sure that I got all the air out of the lines when I reverse bled but the spongy lever has me worried. On my bike with the stock rubber lines my break lever is hard as a rock and the calipers snap back open with no issues what so ever.

    HELP PLEASE?!?!
    "If you don't do it this year, You'll be one year older when you do!"

  • #2
    You'll probably need to tap the area around the splitter to get the air to migrate to the MC, or maybe even loosen it there, to get the fluid to push the air out at the splitter.

    Comment


    • #3
      I got so pissed off at bleeding my front brakes when I went to stainless lines I threw the mighty vac across the garage. Went upstairs and fumed about it over a short glass of good Tequila. Went down to mess with it the following night after work and it was just fine, never a problem since.

      Probably no help but maybe the bubbles will rise?

      As others will suggest though the bubble is in the T most likely. I was going to reorder new lines and have 2 long ones made just to get rid of the T since I have had that same issue when I had race quads.

      2000 Roadstar 1600 - BAK, Pumpless, Curt's manifold, Mikuni HSR42 Freedom Combat Pipes Jumbo Strong bags, PPG 'HellFire' Paint.

      Comment


      • #4
        Leave the cover off on the master cylinder and use tie wraps to hold the brake leaver tight up against the bar. Taps fittings to break bubbles away thrn walk away to have a few beers leave overnight. Check in the morning. Has worked for my last 2 brake bleeds.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks guys, good thing he isn't picking his bike up till Friday! But I have a one car garage and want my garage back haha. I'll let her sit there with the lever depressed overnight and hopefully it will do the trick, if not I'll crack the connection at the T and see what happens.
          "If you don't do it this year, You'll be one year older when you do!"

          Comment


          • #6
            I've never had a problem but then I always draft a helper for the 15 minutes it takes

            Comment


            • #7
              That's what I ended up doing was cracking it at the T. Did the trick, but I also tied the lever back over night first. Good luck, you'll get it. More beers !!

              Comment


              • #8
                I went through hell with mine. Found a fitting on the stainless line not quite tight. Snugged up then cracked the splitter on both ends and had lever in 10 min.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Send it to bed with the MC cap off, lever pulled and your wife’s favorite vibrator duct taped to the splitter!

                  “The West is the Best" - Jim Morrison

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Alright boys, leaving it overnight(sans Vibrator... Shores haha) seems to have done the trick, nice hard lever feel. However at least on the lift the calipers are still not snapping back to wide open and dragging badly. Any ideas? They are used '12 calipers that were in good working order and clean when I installed them. My buddy runs those Kuryakyn chrome caliper covers and would like them reinstalled, so I can shove the pads back open with my spreader however, I would hate to take it all apart again because the caliper wont open back up.

                    Again any help is much appreciated!
                    "If you don't do it this year, You'll be one year older when you do!"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Drag as in the wheel doesn't turn freely? Disc pads almost always drag a little bit, and make a bit of noise, but if they're not hampering the wheel from turning, it's good. If it's dragging to the point of not allowing the wheel to turn freely, there's a problem with the caliper pistons not retracting adequately, which is always only just a very little bit... just enough to let the wheel turn quite free, with a bit of pad drag you'll likely hear.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Like Questcap said disc brakes always drag a little. When they are applied the square piston seal distorts slightly and when released the seal straightens and moves the piston back just enough. Because of the high leverage needed for disc brakes if the pistons were moved back any farther it would take the full travel of the lever to bring them back to the disc. Pry them away just a little and try applying the brakes, you'll see what I mean.
                        Scott B.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          figured out the problem, warped rotors! the wheel wasn't turning as freely as mine does and I had to make my shop real quiet to her that it was in specific places that the pads were dragging hard. Sure enough warped rotors from the guy pouring cold water on the calipers and rotors to get the old ones to release when seized up from heat. Hot metal plus cold water = warpage! huh.... who knew... hahaha
                          "If you don't do it this year, You'll be one year older when you do!"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Chefturner View Post
                            figured out the problem, warped rotors! the wheel wasn't turning as freely as mine does and I had to make my shop real quiet to her that it was in specific places that the pads were dragging hard. Sure enough warped rotors from the guy pouring cold water on the calipers and rotors to get the old ones to release when seized up from heat. Hot metal plus cold water = warpage! huh.... who knew... hahaha
                            Cant fix stupid, but you sure can make em pay for it

                            Rod

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              If you buy brand new rotors make sure you break them in a hundred miles or so

                              2000 Roadstar 1600 - BAK, Pumpless, Curt's manifold, Mikuni HSR42 Freedom Combat Pipes Jumbo Strong bags, PPG 'HellFire' Paint.

                              Comment


                              • #16
                                I’m changing my lines and pads this weekend to SS Braided lines. I have been told about leaving the lever pressed over night also. My question is, what do you mean by cracking the t junction? Won’t that let more air in or fluid out?

                                Comment


                                • roadiemort
                                  roadiemort commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  Your bleeding the fitting at the connector block same way you would at the bleeder screw with the lever pulled and the master full.

                                • Chefturner
                                  Chefturner commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  I had the same thought but it worked along with the leave it overnight trick. I will say that the braided lines are a complete pain compared to the stock rubber hoses.

                                • SKWEARpeg
                                  SKWEARpeg commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  What Mort said. Treat the fittings at the splitter, just like the bleeder.
                                  Build pressure with the lever.
                                  Hold lever and crack a fitting loose.
                                  When the lever is fully depressed, tighten the fitting, and then release the lever and pump it up again.
                                  Do it a couple of times until the air is out at the splitter.
                                  Make sure and keep the MC filled up.

                                  Be careful what happens to the brake fluid and painted stuff.

                              • #17
                                Thanks guys, all done. Got to admit the front ones were a pain, cracking the joints did the trick at the end. The rear were mush easier and would’ve been quicker if I remembered to fill the reservoir during bleeding. Had to start all over again. Had just about finished too. Thanks again for the advice from here and the Facebook page.

                                Comment

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