Shifting Gear Issues

[MM star]

Help needed. I have a 2000 Roadstar MM. it had the transmission recall in 2002.
The problem I have is that I cannot shift into any gears. When I shift it sounds like it shifts but it stays in neutral. The only way to keep it to hold a gear is to hold the shifter pedal up and keep pressure as I shift to the next gear. zz0.3klhtdtdj19zz

[Lug Nut]

How many miles on the bike? What kind of oil do you use? Is this a brand new problem on a bike that you've had for a while that otherwise acted fine? Or, is this a new to you bike and this is the issue you've had since you've had it? What modifications have been done to the bike? Aside from the trans recall do you know if they did the oil pump gear? Any clutch work that is not stock?

[MM star]

30,000 miles. I use Mobil 1 oil and had no issues with and build up on the shifter like other RS. Bike is stock and all recalls have been completed. I am the original owner. L
Symptoms were I was riding in 5th and lost the gear. I could cycle through all the gear but it kept popping back to neutral. I was able to ride it back home by keep pressure on the shifter to hold the gear. I posted the recall info but not sure if my bike had the oil recall done. Do you think I should look into the oil pump? Thanks

[MM star]

I have 22,000 miles. Use the mobil 1 v-twin oil. It’s a new issue and no other clutch mods. No oil pump recall. Attached are the recalls

[roadiemort]

Not a recall but early ones prone to breakage regardless.

[roadiemort]

https://www.roadstarclinic.com/forum/bike-talk/133475-do-all-03-have-upgraded-oil-pump-gear

[Shores]

Is your clutch cable too tight?

[Duke]

Looks like you'll need to pull the clutch cover and take a look.

[MM star]

Duke I will pull the cover. Hopefully it is something simple. I will follow with a response.

[Tcontrol]

A good check to perform before dis-assembly….
Assuming the clutch cable is adjusted correctly..( synthetic oil caused my factory original clutch plates to swell when the motor is hot…which required me to adjust the cable from cold to hot… nobody else has ever mentioned this but that was my experience.. hence i just use standard vtwin dino oil now.. 58k miles on bike now)


Keep motor off

click the transmission into first gear (might have to rock it a bit back and forth to line up gears)

try to push bike forward or back … does it stop when transmission is in gear?

click transmission into second gear… (might have to rock it a bit back and forth to line up gears)

does it go into gear and again not able to move forward or back… ??

this simple test may provide some insight into your problem if performed correctly

your initial description of the problem was a bit vague to me… curious if your clutch handle feels normal, clutch cable free play properly adjusted.. does engine temp make a difference… etc..etc..

[Lug Nut]

A good check to perform before dis-assembly….
Assuming the clutch cable is adjusted correctly..( synthetic oil caused my factory original clutch plates to swell when the motor is hot…which required me to adjust the cable from cold to hot… nobody else has ever mentioned this but that was my experience.. hence i just use standard vtwin dino oil now.. 58k miles on bike now

How did you determine that synthetic oil caused clutch friction discs to swell when hot? Never ever heard of that before in any bike...

[Tcontrol]

My clutch lever nickle space adjustment would change drastically between hot and cold engine… bike ran its whole life with dino vtwin oil… about 16 k miles i decided to try synthetic on one oil change… after experiencing the clutch lever constant adjustment for about 1500 miles.. (roughly 5 weeks)…. I changed the oil again back to v twin dino oil… clutch lever has never changed much since..

maybe i experienced this because i only used the synthetic one time and the slight mix of dino and synthetic from that changeover was the culprit… no idea… i never claimed it was the rule… just what i experienced…. I have never really bothered to investigate further… i do not even remember what brand of synthetic i used at the time and these are still the same friction plates and discs…

[Shores]

The clutch cable should be adjusted when the engine is hot. There should be about a nickel thickness gap/slop between the lever and the perch.

[Shores]

Make sure the shift pedal linkage is lubricated well and that the lever at the engine case is not hitting your exhaust header if you have dual exhaust.

[davej]

has anyone been beating on the bike and shifting thru the gears without using the clutch? If it stays in gear with holding pressure on the shifter you have issues other than the clutch.

[Lug Nut]

has anyone been beating on the bike and shifting thru the gears without using the clutch? If it stays in gear with holding pressure on the shifter you have issues other than the clutch.

I agree with Dave ..sounds like a shifter linkage or
internal shifter part (fork) that is not correct...not a diaphragm spring/clutch plate/steel issue

[Brad_G]

I'm with Shores, I'd start with making sure the shifter and linkages are all working and traveling the needed distance. If the pivot is binding you may get enough travel for initial engagement but not enough to keep engaged. Maybe disconnecting the linkage and moving each by hand to get a "feel" for what might be happening. If those are working as expected then you can dive deeper inside. Just my .02.

[MM star]

I found the problem. The top tension spring broke.

[ItBeMe]

Good for you now. Go ride and enjoy yourself..

[MM star]

Yes Sir. Just in time for Arizona Bike week.

[roadiemort]

Clearer pic of the broken spring.

[MM star]

Thanks for the posting a clearer pic.

[D-Fresh]

Where is the rest of the spring?

[MM star]

Good question. I’m going to see if it still attached to the other end. Hopefully I find is somewhere. Any suggestions on what to do if I cannot find it? I don’t want have issues down the road. Thanks