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How to a weld the pulley on the shaft?

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  • How to a weld the pulley on the shaft?

    Hello,

    just made I fine tour through Sweden ... 6.200km. When I came back I heared a litte noise from the front pulley. When I turn the wheel I feel a little movement at the pulley.
    Tomorrow I buy a 36mm socket to open the nut.

    Here a picture from the nut. What is on the nut??? Is the pulley nut welded? What do I have to do to open the nut?
    And is it possible that a Pulley with a welded nut loosens?

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_6656.jpg Views:	0 Size:	386.1 KB ID:	148829


    What is the torque in nM for the pulley of my XV1700 roadstar from 2005?
    Any information/table of all torques for the Roadstar on the web?

  • #2
    85 N*m …put it in 5th gear when you tighten
    I would hope no one was dumb enough to weld the nut on..it looks like an epoxy smeared on it…try scraping that crap off
    2009 Roady
    2009 Stratoliner S

    Comment


    • #3
      Hit it with a small grinding wheel or a good file.

      Comment


      • #4
        There is also a locking tab on the side of the nut, stick a screwdriver under it to bend it away from the nut.

        Comment


      • #5
        Looks to me like maybe someone had that nut back-off, or was afraid it would happen, so did what KFallsRider suggested and put epoxy over it. Not a bad fix, really, from the standpoint of safety, but breaking it free is another matter. Grinding would be an obvious fix, but before I did that I'd try a good wire wheel brush on a drill or similar, or using a sharp object to just free the circle where the nut screws onto the shaft itself. Then you can clean things off afterward, should you need or choose to do so.

        Comment


        • #6
          Torch that epoxy off
          LET'S RIDE

          Comment


          • #7
            I agree with Lug Nut, a propane torch should help remove that shit. Looks like J-B Weld to me. Not sure if they have that in Europe, but whatever it is, it's not supposed to be there. It's probably not hurting anything, but, if the pulley is loose then it's not helping anything either. Good luck with it. Let us know how it turns out.

            Comment


            • #8
              When I reattach the pulley, I won't use epoxy like the owner of my bike did before. But what to use for threadlocking:
              Loctite red (270)
              or is Loctite blue (243) enough?

              Comment


              • roadiemort
                roadiemort commented
                Editing a comment
                Clean first then red loctite.

            • #9
              When you say a little movement where was the movement? That pulley didn't move on the shaft or the epoxy would be cracked and it is not. The locking tab is also in place with no signs of movement. My guess is any movement you may have felt is a little slop in the transfer case chain. slop in the chain would be felt if you turn the rear wheel in 1 direction and the turn in the opposite direction and the pulley takes a second to move until the slop in the chain tightens. The same applies if you were to move the pulley with the wheel on the ground. will the whole pulley and shaft move back/forth just a little bit? If so that is slop in the transfer case chain.

              Comment


              • #10
                I am confused…

                is the middle shaft assembly moving in/out..(pully moves toward the case and away from the case… ie: ‘run-out’)..

                or is the pully moving toward the rear sprocket and front of the bike (wobbly shaft)..

                or are we refering to the inherent slop of the drive belt and primary transfer case chain…


                each of these problems has a completely different solution… just trying to clarify what problem the OP is attempting to resolve…

                Comment


                • KFallsRider
                  KFallsRider commented
                  Editing a comment
                  The OP - “When I came back I heared a litte noise from the front pulley. When I turn the wheel I feel a little movement at the pulley.”

                  The EU should start a RSC

              • #11
                I can put a piece of metall under the nut:
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_6667.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.75 MB ID:	148912

                Here you can see the nut from every side - the locking tab is not on every side (only on image 1/3).
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_6664.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.40 MB ID:	148911 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_6666.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.59 MB ID:	148913 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_6665.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.72 MB ID:	148914

                I also made a little video where you can see and hear the movement of the pulley.. Where can I upload the video?

                Comment


                • #12
                  I found a way to show you the
                  video: https://youtu.be/U7Z7B7a4jJ4

                  Look between the pulley and the nut. While I am turning the wheel you hear and see the little movement.

                  Comment


                  • Chooch
                    Chooch commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Great video. It makes it so much easier to diagnose the problem. I suggest you remove the nut and washer and take another identical video to help diagnose the cause of the excess clearance between the shaft and pulley hub.

                  • davej
                    davej commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I agree with Chooch. The splines are probably messed up on the shaft. that nut hasn't moved from when it was last put on but it defiantly has movement at the pulley and shaft spline area.

                • #13
                  Originally posted by JoeX View Post
                  When I reattach the pulley, I won't use epoxy like the owner of my bike did before. But what to use for threadlocking:
                  Loctite red (270)
                  or is Loctite blue (243) enough?
                  Clean threads with wire brush and brake cleaner...let dry..get new washer and torque down to 100-110 lb/ft
                  LET'S RIDE

                  Comment


                  • #14
                    I watched the video… once you get it apart.. look at the pully very carefully… i would bet that an excess amount of wear on the pully hub would be observed…
                    i would probably replace the pully, lock tab, and nut… but that is just me…. I tend to be a little obsessive compulsive… i like things to be fixed the first time instead of having to do it again and again…!

                    Comment


                    • JoeX
                      JoeX commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Are the lockwasher and the nut universal parts which I can take from cars or other bikes? Ordering the original part from partzilla/allways take weeks.

                    • roadiemort
                      roadiemort commented
                      Editing a comment
                      No Yamaha dealers where you are?

                    • JoeX
                      JoeX commented
                      Editing a comment
                      No dealer here .... the xv1700 Roadstar was never sold in Germany, it is imported from US.

                  • #15
                    Even though yamaha specifies “one time use”…. How many of us have ignored that and just torqued that baby with some locktight and bent the tab up..??
                    this is a rhetorical question… no need to respond…

                    i am 100% guilty of it myself…!!!!

                    Comment


                    • brianmac
                      brianmac commented
                      Editing a comment
                      guilty x5

                  • #16
                    The pulley hub would be a softer material than the shaft..hoping the splines are ok.A No brainer for the need to replace that’s a lot of slop. In a pinch you could salvage the washer..but the peace of mind having all new ..don’t bat an eye..pull the trigger
                    A pulley here is - $200
                    nut and washer -$25
                    2009 Roady
                    2009 Stratoliner S

                    Comment


                    • #17
                      Originally posted by Lug Nut View Post

                      Clean threads with wire brush and brake cleaner...let dry..get new washer and torque down to 100-110 lb/ft
                      That would be 135nM (I need nM for my torque tool)

                      Instant free online tool for foot-pound to newton meter conversion or vice versa. The foot-pound [ft*lbf] to newton meter [N*m] conversion table and conversion steps are also listed. Also, explore tools to convert foot-pound or newton meter to other energy units or learn more about energy conversions.


                      Someone else in this thread wrote 85nM ,,, who can help?

                      Comment


                      • #18
                        That was me..#7 85N*m / 63ft.-Lbs. from my 1999-2005 Clymer Manual

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	10D3DC15-998D-4D68-89A5-40B9D308C505.jpg Views:	0 Size:	1.68 MB ID:	148991
                        2009 Roady
                        2009 Stratoliner S

                        Comment


                        • #19
                          are some years different than other nutss? or is that the cluthc boss different?

                          Comment


                          • Brad_G
                            Brad_G commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Yes I'm pretty sure there are two different sizes. Not sure when the cut-over was. My '08 uses a nut that's staked as opposed to the fold over washer of the earlier bikes. I forget the socket size needed but the newer one is smaller.

                        • #20
                          the reason the tork is low is probably due to yamaha using a short bolt aka a jam nut. not as many threads . we all know they coulda designed it a little better for such a tork monster

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