Chasing ghosts with engine revival

[joej85a]

In your very first post…..

”Complete carb rebuild with factory jets.”….

and now you are saying that the jets were not the factory jets…..

i would say that you have effectively misled these fine people at the clinic with incorrect information… hard to troubleshoot a problem based on incorrect or incomplete data…

at least you were honest with an update that problem was resolved and what was corrected… i wish you many years of riding the aforementioned bike because the roadstar is an a wesome and dependable machine when maintained and serviced correctly…

True, I should have clarified that I meant factory sized jets. Just glad its going again.

[Tcontrol]

In your very first post…..

”Complete carb rebuild with factory jets.”….

and now you are saying that the jets were not the factory jets…..

i would say that you have effectively misled these fine people at the clinic with incorrect information… hard to troubleshoot a problem based on incorrect or incomplete data…

at least you were honest with an update that problem was resolved and what was corrected… i wish you many years of riding the aforementioned bike because the roadstar is an a wesome and dependable machine when maintained and serviced correctly…

[joej85a]

Update gentlemen. Sorry for the long gap, but the issue has been resolved. Apparently the jet kit i used in the rebuild did not contain the correct jets/needle. I cannot recall what brand it was, but suffice it to say something was up with some or all of the parts. I put the original jets/needle back in it, cleaned the slide, as it had some pitting on the back, and bingo. All issues are gone. Thanks to everyone for the collective experience and brain power! Another one back on the road.

[brianmac]

replace it with something tuffer than chineseoprene cap. i use EFI line with a cut off galv nail as short as possible. and clamps

[Horsehammerr]

Winter Project

[roadiemort]

Solder it shut.

[davej]

solder it closed

[Shores]

Well it lasted one day . What is a good way to permanently seal the intake manifold vaccum nipple ?

Solder it shut.

[Horsehammerr]

Well it lasted one day . What is a good way to permanently seal the intake manifold vaccum nipple ?

[Dr. D]

I am willing to bet that your float level is too low. During your carb rebuild, you may have bent the float tab that contacts the needle valve when you had it out. It is easy to do.

I improperly adjusted my float height too low, and experienced the same symptoms you did. Basically, under deep throttle your draining the float bowl. After a few seconds, or even while your bike is dead but still rolling, it'll fire right back up - as soon as the float bowl is filled up again.

When I went pumpless and was adjusting my float level, I was going off old/wrong information and using the float bowl mating surface on the filter side of the carb. The correct measurement is using the intake side of the float bowl mating surface (4mm or so above it). Don't make the mistake I did. I was very frustrated for a few days.

[joej85a]

Don't use Yamabond on the flange use permatex hylomar. Napa also caries Hylomar. Smear it across the flange and oring let it flash set and install the manifold. Also before installing the new manifold place a pc of wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface and resurface the flange. using a figure 8 motion sand until the green coating is gone and the flange is flat. if you have an adjustable needle in the carb let us know what groove the clip is in.

Okay I will check that out. Im hoping it is a vacuum leak somewhere in the intake. Sure seems like a lean condition to me.

Thanks for all the continued suggestions guys!

[joej85a]

did you replace the spark plugs

I did, sorry forgot to mention that.

[Horsehammerr]

After several days of putting up with the SAME problem . I simply let mine warm up good and then took a spray can of Brake Cleaner , with the little red straw in the spray tip , and lightly sprayed each intake connection , Carb. to intake , and OH YEAH !!! , the vaccum line nipple on the top toward the rear of the Intake manifold and BAAM ! There it was , vaccum leak. Sealed that dang thing and all the Popping , Sputtering and missing is GONE !

[scotcher65]

my bike was acting similar to yours but i replaced the spark plugs and ran a couple of treatments of seafoam fuel treatment. Sometimes when a bike is laid up it just needs a little running time to get it back on track

[scotcher65]

did you replace the spark plugs

[davej]

Don't use Yamabond on the flange use permatex hylomar. Napa also caries Hylomar. Smear it across the flange and oring let it flash set and install the manifold. Also before installing the new manifold place a pc of wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface and resurface the flange. using a figure 8 motion sand until the green coating is gone and the flange is flat. if you have an adjustable needle in the carb let us know what groove the clip is in.

[Shores]

Unless you know your fuel pump is bad, I would hold off on going pumpless until you get it running good first and get all the carb adjustments made. Changing too many things at once can make problem solving more complicated. What I do when I bolt up the exhaust headers is to make sure that the headers are seated very well against the gaskets and tighten them part way first, working my way back and forth all the way to the mufflers. If you just bolt everything up all at once you run the risk of having a leak at the header gaskets. Torque the bolts a little bit at a time along the entire exhaust making sure that the exhaust ports get priority.

[joej85a]

Alright gang, here is my plan of attack. I have been wanting to do a fuel pump delete, so I ordered the appropriate parts as listed in the article here (updated ones). While doing that, I am going to remove and insure I have no leaks in the intake manifold. I am thinking a thin coat of yamabond on the flange surfaces. While apart for that, I will verify float level per the pump delete article, and verify jets. Parts are due the 24th. Stay tuned and thanks!

[joej85a]

These bikes do not like to be blipped. They will pop back through the carb if you do this. The accelerator pump comes on from start to 3/4 throttle and squirting directly straight to the throat of the carb near the needle. Make sure it’s a good flow of fuel too. Going over 1/2 throttle and runs like crap tends to be the float level not set right meaning not getting enough fuel. Hope this helps.

I did replace the needle valve in it, so the float level could possibly be an issue as well. I confess float levels were always above my pay grade. But ill see if i can find some videos. Thanks for the suggestion.

[Engineman]

These bikes do not like to be blipped. They will pop back through the carb if you do this. The accelerator pump comes on from start to 3/4 throttle and squirting directly straight to the throat of the carb near the needle. Make sure it’s a good flow of fuel too. Going over 1/2 throttle and runs like crap tends to be the float level not set right meaning not getting enough fuel. Hope this helps.