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  • wobble

    Hey guys i have question. I replaced my tires, i used shinko as i had them on my goldwing. At 75 or 80 on interstate it starts to try and walk, not so much a real wobble. the shop checked and rear tire was moving all over, so he replaced them both with new tires, i believe dunlaps. It changed nothing, it dd not do this before the new tires. Its not scary or too the point you are worried about losing it. Bike only has 9000 miles on it. what culd he have done to cause this? I took it back twice, it does not do it at 60 or lower. Easiest way to explain it is its like you put pressure on one side and bike kinda feels like it wants to move in its own tracks, if that makes any sense. Any ideas?

  • #2
    Sounds like he'll ever installed the tires maybe left out a spacer in the rear rear.
    LET'S RIDE

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    • #3
      Could be rear wheel alignment. If it's a shop not familiar with Yamaha, they may not be aware that the swing arm marks to align the rear wheel are notoriously wrong, After getting the belt tension proper, the alignment must be checked by measuring from the center of the swing arm pivot to the center of the axle, on both sides of course. Going off the marks on the swing arm will almost certainly guarantee a rear wheel mis-alignment. Good luck.

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      • Duke
        Duke commented
        Editing a comment
        Right on, FB. exactly!

    • #4
      Too bad you now have Dunlops! They suck. Shinkos are much better. How many miles on the tires? I've had to put about 200 on my new tires to scrub them in before they feel stable. I'm with Scott, thinking they must have left a spacer out. Best thing is to have someone mount your tires but install the wheels on the bike yourself.

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      • #5
        I had 2 bad rear Shinko 777www hd. The original 1 I bought and the 1 they replaced under warranty. I would never use them again on the rear. I like the front one I kept on the bike. I went back to a Dunlop Cruisemax and will never switch to another brand for the rear. I does sound like rear alignment of the tire. They probably used the marks on the adjusters and they are not very accurate. In fact you never even need to loosen the adjusters to change the rear wheel, so when you put it back together it is in the exact spot it was in prior to removal

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        • #6
          Could they have bent a wheel on the first go round?
          It's not that life is so short, it's just that you're dead for so long.---unknown.

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          • #7
            Im doing a better inspection this weekend. Going to check fork bearings and rear wheel alignment. Ive been gone so no chance till now. Any thing else i need to look at? thanks guys

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            • #8
              As a side note. I didn’t like Dunlops but after a blow out way away from home at 5 pm my only option was a Dunlop American Elite. They have been awesome tires. I like them better than any of the Metzlers I tried. But when available I still do Continental Condi WWW
              It's not that life is so short, it's just that you're dead for so long.---unknown.

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              • #9
                Originally posted by MikeyC View Post
                As a side note. I didn’t like Dunlops but after a blow out way away from home at 5 pm my only option was a Dunlop American Elite. They have been awesome tires. I like them better than any of the Metzlers I tried. But when available I still do Continental Condi WWW
                What model Dunlop are they Mike?

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                • MikeyC
                  MikeyC commented
                  Editing a comment
                  303's were the worst but the American Elites are the best

              • #10
                I’m with Lugnut, the shop may have forgotten to put the spacer back on the axel. I had a shop do that to mine. It could have gotten us killed. There was a lot of noise. The wheel wore the axel pretty bad, so I made them replace it. Needless to say, they were very compliment. I’m sure it was some 19 yo newbie they give the ‘easy’ jobs to.

                That was the last time I let a shop do anything besides mount a tire on a wheel I removed and replaced.

                if you don’t feel comfortable removing the wheel yourself, consider asking another shop to check it.

                BTW, I recently replaced my Dunlop’s with Michelin Commander II’s. WOW! Love them and they should last twice as long as the Dunlop’s. More expensive, but I think they’re worth it.

                Comment


                • #11
                  check wheel alignment is the easiest and most obvious thing to do. Doesnt matter what tires you have they should track straight. If it wobbles I would next check correct tension on steering head bearings. Also relatively easy to do but I would recommend doing that with a spanner wrench.

                  Comment


                  • #12
                    When i got my bike the steering head bearings were too loose and it was not a fun ride at highway speeds. May not be the whole issue but could contribute to the wobble as Druegeme mentioned above.
                    2012 Road Star Silverado S

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                    • #13
                      Would radial tires be different then bias? i did not notice which these were.

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                      • #14
                        Originally posted by Texas Jim View Post
                        Would radial tires be different then bias? i did not notice which these were.
                        I don't believe you want radials because they have weak sidewalls. I don't even know if radials are available for motorcycles

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                        • davej
                          davej commented
                          Editing a comment
                          They are available for motorcycles.

                      • #15
                        After you get over issues sorted out with tires the next thing to look at are your windshield and or fairing misalignment. A quarter inch here makes a big difference on the freeway. Are you using a factory windshield, are you using a Street glide type Harley fairing? anything that you mount on the front of the bike needs to approach the same angle off vertical as the factory windshield. Aerodynamics at speed is a huge Factor that cannot be ignored. 40 or 50 lb test fishing line doesn't stretch, and you can mark it off with paint or a magic marker and measure the distance from something dead center, like under the seat. Everything needs to be bilaterally symmetrical.

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