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Starts and runs ... until starter button is released.

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  • Starts and runs ... until starter button is released.

    (2012 XV1700 Silverado S, FI)
    Installed the 4-gauge battery cables and when all was done I started the bike and it fired right up. However, it then died right away. Experimenting a bit, I found if I held the starter button a few seconds after it started, it did continue to run, but only until the starter button was released.
    So, I either did something wrong, or knocked something loose, or what?
    The gauge dance is the same at ignition turn-on. Front marker lights and tail light is on. Kill switch is off, side stand is down and it's in neutral. After starting the head light and passing lamps are on. So, the only thing I find that's wrong is that it should continue to run when the starter button is released.
    Any ideas why the engine will start ... and run, only when the starter button is depressed, and not keep running when released?
    Tomorrow (Thursday) I plan to dig deeper and will appreciate any good leads.

  • #2
    Sounds like an old Chrysler ballast resister issue. LOL I would concentrate on the starter relay area wiring. Any plug that you may have unplugged you may have disturbed the connection

    Comment


    • #3
      I thought I had put the new wires on the same way I took the old wires off ... but apparently I didn't. In troubleshooting last night I didn't look too closely at the relay (probably thinking the contacts weren't polarity sensitive -- besides, I put them back the same way I took them off! Hahaha)
      Anyway, this morning I see the internal fuse for FI is now connected to the wire to the starter which only has voltage while the starter button is depressed.
      I struggled with connecting the heavy wires to the relay and getting everything to fit in the box. Adjusting the angle of the terminal ends required several fittings, so somewhere in the process those cables got reversed.
      Haven't had the time to actually do the fix, but am confident that reversing---putting the wires in their proper place--will resolve the problem.
      Thanks to davej for his input, and I'll post another reply when the fix and testing are complete.

      Comment


      • #4
        That would make sense. Ignition not getting constant power source, only when starter button depressed. Sounds like an easy fix. Those are the best kind!

        Comment


        • #5
          Fix is complete, that was it. Unfortunately, putting the wires in their proper place made reinstalling the relay much harder; had to lift the relay a bit so the connector would reach the battery.
          Anyway, all is right with the [Road Star] world again.

          Comment


          • #6
            did you buy the cables from me?

            Comment


            • Boots
              Boots commented
              Editing a comment
              Yes, I did.
              I found the cable from the pos terminal of the battery just fit when it ran straight down to the relay terminal on the left (toward the rear of the bike) and the cable to the starter came up from the terminal on the right. The cables ran next to each other behind the relay. This is how the OEM was wired--I thought--but obviously I was wrong.
              Unfortunately, the cable from the battery needs to go to the terminal on the right, the one toward the front of the bike. And the cable to the starter needs to go from the left terminal and cross over the one from the battery. Not much of a problem with the OEM cables, but difficult with the fatter cables. In order for the cable from the battery to go to the proper terminal without lifting the relay I could have used about 5mm more of cable for a perfect fit.
              Another fix for my mistake, without moving the cables from where I had put them, would have been to move the red wire in the 4-pin connector from its current location over to the empty space which is connected through another fuse to the other connector. That would have powered the FI circuit from the left terminal, where I had run the cable from the battery. Of course I didn't consider doing this until I was in the middle of struggling with crossing the fat cables to put them on the proper terminal. Didn't get to actually try that but see no reason why it wouldn't have worked. If you have any questions, just ask.

            • davej
              davej commented
              Editing a comment
              so you are saying the cable was about 1/4 inch to short? If so I will add a little bit more to the length of my FI cables in the future. Is yours OK the way it is or do you need a longer cable? When I make my cables I already added a little to the length to take care of the issue of the larger diameter and routing.

          • #7
            Thanks Dave, but I'm OK with what I have. The additional 1/4" for future battery-starter cables would be good.
            Some day soon I would like to go back to the starter relay and confirm the wiring of the currently unused fuse and the unused terminal on the relay. I think having the cables to be routed parallel to each other and not have to do the crossover would be a better fix to me. If the wiring of the second fuse is as I suspect, simply moving the red wire terminal over to the currently unused location would simplify the installation of the fatter cables.

            Comment


            • #8
              Are you the original owner of the bike? It sounds like someone may have installed a Yamaha Warrior relay in the bike. They have to be crossed over or taken apart and flip the one contact plate to the other side. I don't know if that warrior relay mod is in the tech section or not but if Roadiemort sees this I'll bet he has a pic of the mod to show you.

              Comment


              • Boots
                Boots commented
                Editing a comment
                I'm the second owner; my son was the first. I'll ask him tomorrow if there have been any changes with that relay.
                The connection IS the Warrior style which requires the crossed cables. Right now I don't yet know if the bike came that way, or not.

              • Boots
                Boots commented
                Editing a comment
                My son said the starter relay is original OEM. Apparently the 2012 R*s come standard with a Warrior type relay (At least the 'charging' module is of the Warrior style), which means the cables must be crossed because I don't have a charging module from the older style relay to use.

            • #9
              http://people.delphiforums.com/new_r...rterRelay.html

              If I have done this correctly here is the write up about the Warrior relay vs the Road Star relay
              It's not that life is so short, it's just that you're dead for so long.---unknown.

              Comment


            • #10
              thanks guys, I guess you need the OEM relay to reuse the strap onto the Warrior relay. I also guess that if you don't have the OEM this would be about the only time a $10 ebay relay would be worth anything just to use the 1 part from it.

              Comment


              • Boots
                Boots commented
                Editing a comment
                Apparently the 2012 R*s have the Warrior relay as OEM and that's why the cables were crossed behind the relay. Crossing the new 4ga cables was difficult but I got 'er done.
                I like your suggestion of ordering a cheap original starting relay and using just the charging module on my Warrior style relay. Either I need to find someone with a charging module from a bad old-style relay that would like to donate it to me, or I need to order one just to get the charging module. Meanwhile I did get it working and stuffed back into the box, so I'm good for now.

            • #11
              Sounds like you relayed out your ignition. Use that damn telephone thing for the damn camera thing take the damn pictures. Take a dozen pictures before you take stuff apart. Back in the day we had to rely on Polaroid cameras come or worse than that a shop manual and wiring diagrams..

              Comment


              • Boots
                Boots commented
                Editing a comment
                Unfortunately, the original thinner cables crossed over behind the relay where they couldn't be seen. It appeared the cable to the left went straight down and attached to the left side terminal and when removing the cables I apparently didn't catch that they crossed over behind the relay. A 'before' picture would not have helped in this case.
                Normally, taking 'before' pictures is good advice.

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