Clutch issue after Barnett clutch spring conversion kit

[Leamdown]

Hi all. As the title states, I'm having issues with my new clutch components on my Wildstar XV1600 year 2000.

I've changed the stock spring and pressure plate out for the Barnett spring conversion kit (part number 511-90-10002) which has been torqued to 5.5 ft. Lbs.). I've also changed the clutch plates (8) and friction discs (9) as the old ones were shot (I've put them in with the two indentations on the friction plates to the two dots on the clutch housing as stated for 1999 - 2003 models). I've followed the clymer manual to the letter and followed a video tutorial but the clutch lever won't spring back once I've engaged it. The clutch lifter lever (with spring attached) doesn't spring back properly after pulling the clutch lever, which leaves the clutch lever on the handlebars flapping in the wind with no tension, even though I've spent over an hour trying to adjust the tension on the clutch cable (which was brand new less than a year ago). I've adjusted the cable to within tolerances in the book and have had the case off to double check my work and everything is exactly how it is in the video and the spring torqued to correct settings, but I must've missed something as it's not working. I've also made sure to get the pinion gear on the clutch case to engage with the loose gear that sits behind the pressure plate, by pointing it towards the back of the bike. I'm hoping someone else has had a similar issue, but managed to resolve it. Any help is greatly appreciated!

I've attached pictures of the instructions included with the kit and also two pictures of the clutch install just before I torqued the springs.

[Lug Nut]

What instrument did you use to torque to 5.5 foot pounds... What torque wrench size.... 1/4 in... 1/2 in....? No 1/2 in will go down accurately to 5.5 lb/ft... Have to use a 1/4 in for inch-lbs (want 70 in-lbs

Did you soak clutch disc's in oil for a couple hours before install? Are the clutch steels all facing the same way (cut/sharp side toward motor)? Did you rotate the little "arm" that pokes through the middle and stocks out properly?

What clutch disc's and steels are you using? OEM Yamaha or Barnett? Did you remove the wire at the back of clutch bracket and remove the smaller disc and steel and replace those as well and did you you reattach wire or leave off?

I would remove everything and double check everything... Make sure the throw-out bearing in the Barnett unit is working fine and not seized up....

NOT sure adjusting clutch cable while things aren't working right was a good idea also...

[Leamdown]

Thanks for the response! I used a 1/4 inch that has a range of 2 - 21 ft lbs.

Yes to the soaking in clean oil, yes to clutch steels and yes to the loose "arm" which fits into the pinion gear. Also, the bearings are silky smooth in the new pressure plate.

I've removed the wire as I've been told it serves little to no function and replaced the primary friction disc and plate. As for the branding, I've used the OEM plates and EBC clutch friction discs as the OEM ones were unattainable and these were the next closest I could get hold of.

I will be removing it to check it again, but it has unfortunately been filled with oil now, which means I have to tilt the bike over again to ensure the new oil doesn't escape, so would ideally like a game plan this time as I feel I may be slightly out of my depth with this one!

As for the cable, I'm aware I may have let myself in for a world of pain when it comes to adjusting it for real

[davej]

those springs shouldn't be visible when tightened properly. Here is a pic of the springs tightened correctly. see how the spring does not petrude outside of the hole that it sets into. when properly torqued the washer is flush with the pressure plate surface. If it was mine i would get rid of whatever tq wrench you are using and get the proper inch lbs tq wrench because the 1 you are using is obviously not accurate for this job if it said you were properly torqued where it is at in the pic.

[Leamdown]

those springs shouldn't be visible when tightened properly. Here is a pic of the springs tightened correctly. see how the spring does not petrude outside of the hole that it sets into. when properly torqued the washer is flush with the pressure plate surface. If it was mine i would get rid of whatever tq wrench you are using and get the proper inch lbs tq wrench because the 1 you are using is obviously not accurate for this job if it said you were properly torqued where it is at in the pic.

Thanks for the reply, but the pictures were taken before the springs were torqued in as said in the OP. Mine are flush with the pressure plate, as yours are. When you torqued yours, did the bolts "bottom out"?

[Shores]

Yes the bolts bottom out.

[Leamdown]

Then that isn't the problem as mine bottomed out too... The only thing I'm guessing has fit in correctly rather than knowing is the loose gear that sits behind the pressure plate and then links up with the pinion gear on the clutch case. As I can't see that when I'm putting the cover on, would that cause this issue if the gear didn't engage correctly?

[Shores]

If you put in new steel or fiber discs, it is common that folks aren't able to get them indexed properly into the little grooves in the basket. I have not done it personally but there has been a lot of conversation on this site about that issue.

[Duke]

You might check out this post. This happened to me, a defect with Barnett's pressure plate, but Barnett was fast to make it right.
Clutch Conversion Barnett's Plate - The Roadstar Clinic

[Lug Nut]

Could try removing Barnett and trying OEM diaphragm spring again and see if you get clutch engagement. Could help rule out a defective Barnett piece

[Leamdown]

Thanks for your responses everyone. I'll have a look at the clutch boss allingment with the new pressure plate, indexing of the new plates and discs with the boss and if all else fails, just try the OEM one which will eliminate or prove the Barnett as an issue. If the Barnett is an issue, then I'll have difficulty getting them to help me out as I'm in the UK and shipping is a nightmare!

Thanks again all. I'll update after I've attacked it this evening!

[MikeyC]

Another common thing that happens when installing the barnett is that you don't get it clocked on there quite right. Look behind the pressure plate and if you can slip a piece of paper in there then it is not seated. There must be a lip back there somewhere. The cover will still bolt on and seal but you can't adjust the cable, it does as you describe. I seam to have this issue every time I do one and it takes me a couple times to get it seated. Don't put oil in it until it's adjusted in case you have to take cover back off.

Wondering if anyone else has this issue with the pressure plate not seating all the way down? Just a little twist and it will finally go. After I have to open it up a couple times.

[DEEPHATE]

I was wondering about that also. I am almost ready to open mine up. I have the oil pump gear and a Barnett pressure plate on the way. I have been watching any issues I see others having. If it can be screwed up I will manage it somehow.

[MikeyC]

It's an easy job, just watch the torque spec's, the clutch basket can get damaged. Watch how you take it apart and put it back the same way. The pressure plate likes to hang up and not seat and the clutch release arm has to clock to the correct place. Make sure the clutch lever works properly before filling with oil and if you get hung up or are not sure on something ask on here before continuing, These guys are great with the help and some comedy relief

[Sharpman66]

Hi all. As the title states, I'm having issues with my new clutch components on my Wildstar XV1600 year 2000.

I've changed the stock spring and pressure plate out for the Barnett spring conversion kit (part number 511-90-10002) which has been torqued to 5.5 ft. Lbs.). I've also changed the clutch plates (8) and friction discs (9) as the old ones were shot (I've put them in with the two indentations on the friction plates to the two dots on the clutch housing as stated for 1999 - 2003 models). I've followed the clymer manual to the letter and followed a video tutorial but the clutch lever won't spring back once I've engaged it. The clutch lifter lever (with spring attached) doesn't spring back properly after pulling the clutch lever, which leaves the clutch lever on the handlebars flapping in the wind with no tension, even though I've spent over an hour trying to adjust the tension on the clutch cable (which was brand new less than a year ago). I've adjusted the cable to within tolerances in the book and have had the case off to double check my work and everything is exactly how it is in the video and the spring torqued to correct settings, but I must've missed something as it's not working. I've also made sure to get the pinion gear on the clutch case to engage with the loose gear that sits behind the pressure plate, by pointing it towards the back of the bike. I'm hoping someone else has had a similar issue, but managed to resolve it. Any help is greatly appreciated!

I've attached pictures of the instructions included with the kit and also two pictures of the clutch install just before I torqued the springs.

Hard to tell but it looks like theres a slight space between the Barnett pressure plate and your friction disks. I'd try reinstalling it. Hope you figure it out.

[MikeyC]

#4, NOTE: May have to rotate up to 3 times for plate to seat. I know it makes me take it apart 3 times to get it to seat.

[Horsehammerr]

Like MikeyC says , that Barnett Plate HAS TO BE TIGHT AGAINST THE OUTER CLUTCH DISC ! I had mine all together and NOTHING ! Took it all apart and realized the Plate was not against the disc. The explanation about ROTATE TO SEAT is VERY VAGUE . What they MEAN IS ROTATE THE PLATE UNTIL IT SITS TIGHT AGAINST THE CLUTCH DISC ! You would Think for all the Super Clutch They Claim , They could explain in DIY Language . ( Do It Yourself ) that is .

[Leamdown]

Hi all, thanks for responding. Apologies for the late reply - I've been waiting for new parts to arrive and I've just had a chance to fit them.

I have fit an uprated EBC diaphragm spring and the clutch is working like a dream now, with a great feel, so I can only assume there was an issue with the Barnett as I removed it and refit it numerous times and it always seemed to slot in snugly against the plates.

Perhaps there was an issue with the spring part of the Barnett?

It's fixed now, but annoying that I couldn't find the issue with the Barnett. I appreciate all of the responses from everyone! Thanks!

[moose]

have a look on Youtube (if that's allowed) there's a guy on there with a warrior he changes it to a barnett plate with a couple of changes to the friction plates

[Leamdown]

I saw that one, I think he calls it a '3-plate mod'. Couldn't make head or tail of what the issue was with the Barnett, but no matter the orientation, I couldn't get it to work. The EBC is a huge upgrade on the worn stock one, so not all bad in the end!

[Lug Nut]

I put the EBC in my Roadliner and had one in a Royal Star Venture... Both heavier and more powerful bikes and it worked well.

[Leamdown]

Thanks for the confidence-inspiring comment. I heard that the EBC spring is stronger than stock, so hoping for many miles of life out of it! It certainly improves the gear changes and feel at the lever.

Nice looking bike in your profile pic by the way!