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  • Doc_V
    commented on 's reply
    Gaskets are metal and reusable. Just don't bend them [obviously] and wipe them clean, along with the mating surfaces, before reassembly. You'll likely have to use a rubber mallet to break the rocker plate free from the push rod tube. Go easy; the tube is just held in place with an o-ring at each end. Also, *BE VERY CAREFUL* not to let the dowel pin, under the intake side of the rocker plate, come loose and fall down into the oil drain back hole. The hole is in the perfect spot for the dowel to fall in and end up in the bottom of the crank case.

  • davej
    commented on 's reply
    No the head don't need to come off. Just the rocker cover and rocker spacer plate. The plate has to come off to remove the pushrod tube to access the lifters.

  • brianmac
    replied
    does the head have to come off to do the lifter replacement?, and if so, what gasket are needed or not needed?

    Leave a comment:


  • D-Fresh
    commented on 's reply
    Kudos to you, not a quick or easy fix.

  • Chromepony
    commented on 's reply
    That's right...better to run it a little fat than a little lean.

  • tovarman2
    replied
    I added this to my “break in" and "post break in" oil change ...

    about 1 ounce per quart of oil.

    Leave a comment:


  • brianmac
    replied
    I get chills in my up and down my spine when I hear people say, "i've been using the same oil for years with no problems"…........

    Leave a comment:


  • Father Pobasturd
    replied
    Previous owner must have cheaped out on the oil or didn't observe appropriate service intervals. I lived in Killeen for 20 years. Can't say I miss it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bikerron
    commented on 's reply
    Stock 1600s are rev limited to 4,250, but an ECM from a (‘04-‘07) carbed 1700 will take it to 4,750. Plug n play.

    The FI bikes went back to 4,250.

  • tovarman2
    replied
    Dunning. Damn autocorrect

    Leave a comment:


  • tovarman2
    replied
    Running Kruger. I got it...

    Leave a comment:


  • tovarman2
    replied
    I did not. Should I? I think I should....

    start it running and crack open the oil line on left side of bike, right? Oil everywhere = good pressure and just a drip means an issue...if I remember reading correctly. Idling at 850 to 900 RPM...

    BTW....what is redline for these 1600s? How do you know aside from hooking up an aftermarket tach?

    Leave a comment:


  • Duke
    replied
    Glad you got it back on the road.
    Did you by chance check the oil pressure after you put it back together?

    Leave a comment:


  • roadiemort
    commented on 's reply
    Yes that and the Dunning Kruger effect.

  • Lug Nut
    replied
    Amazing... These bikes can go 200k-300k with normal maintenance and no issues... And a bike with only 10k miles wipes cam and lifters (probably due to wrong oil)... Sucks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Horsehammerr
    commented on 's reply
    Rich don't hurt , maybe a mile or two on miles per gallon .

  • Jclevesque
    replied
    Congrats on the fix up!

    Leave a comment:


  • tovarman2
    replied
    I was worried starting it all up the first time!!!

    The info posted on this site is extremely helpful.

    I also just added a Barons jet kit and K&N filter. I ran the 170 main and am planning to drop to the 167.5. I think that’s right...or whatever the smaller jet is in the kit. I’ll start there.

    Anyways rode it today and it did pretty well. Just think it’s a bit rich...

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    commented on 's reply
    Congratz, that's got to feel good.

  • tovarman2
    replied
    Got the cams replaced as well as the lifters. Found a lifter case used on EBay and replaced the gouged up one. Got it all back together and have put about 150 miles on it so far.

    Leave a comment:

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