Was riding along when bike lost power. Rear cylinder dead. Got home after work and temped rear exhaust coming out of rear cylinder and reading was very low. Opened her up to see what was up and noticed the intake rocker arm on rear cylinder was not rotating enough to open/close intake valves. Got to lifter and lifter case and found this...
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This doesn’t look good...
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99 Roadstar with a lil over 10k mikes. Transmission recall had not been performed so took it to a local shop to have completed. While in there had them upgrade the oil pump gear per what I read around here. Recent oil change too. Mobil 1 V-twin synthetic.
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Cam looksnok from that Pic.. Lifter bad. Probably replace both cams and lifters as a set... Odd thing to have happen on a Road StarLET'S RIDE
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Thoughts on the lifter case? Anyone think I could clean that up and reuse? Or does it appear to need to be replaced?
I saw an article or two on valve lifters from the local auto parts store. Good to run those versus OEM?
When I look around the net for OEM cams I am seeing around $400 to $500 a set. Yikes! Is there no way to replace just the rear cylinder cam or do they have to be maintained as a set ( not to mix a new one with a "used" one)? Thoughts?
I am open to all suggestions!
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Originally posted by Lug Nut View PostOdd thing to have happen on a Road Star
Originally posted by tovarman2 View PostThoughts on the lifter case? Anyone think I could clean that up and reuse? Or does it appear to need to be replaced?
I saw an article or two on valve lifters from the local auto parts store. Good to run those versus OEM?
When I look around the net for OEM cams I am seeing around $400 to $500 a set. Yikes! Is there no way to replace just the rear cylinder cam or do they have to be maintained as a set ( not to mix a new one with a "used" one)? Thoughts?
I am open to all suggestions!
Have you drained the oil yet and cut open the oil filter to see if there are metal shavings in it? I'd be willing to bet there is metal in the oil and the filter. If so, there are metal shavings throughout the engine and in the oil tank. Not a good situation.
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Two words; Flat tappets. PO probably was using cheap ass oil with low ZDDP content.
Just an observation and some food for thought.
There are many blogs out there about flat tappet cams and their appetite for zinc and phosphorus and all of Yamaha’s big pushrod V twins use them.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...e-2016.296170/
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Originally posted by Bikerron View PostTwo words; Flat tappets. PO probably was using cheap ass oil with low ZDDP content.
Just an observation and some food for thought.
There are many blogs out there about flat tappet cams and their appetite for zinc and phosphorus.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...e-2016.296170/
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Got the cams replaced as well as the lifters. Found a lifter case used on EBay and replaced the gouged up one. Got it all back together and have put about 150 miles on it so far.2 Photos
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I was worried starting it all up the first time!!!
The info posted on this site is extremely helpful.
I also just added a Barons jet kit and K&N filter. I ran the 170 main and am planning to drop to the 167.5. I think that’s right...or whatever the smaller jet is in the kit. I’ll start there.
Anyways rode it today and it did pretty well. Just think it’s a bit rich...
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Amazing... These bikes can go 200k-300k with normal maintenance and no issues... And a bike with only 10k miles wipes cam and lifters (probably due to wrong oil)... Sucks.LET'S RIDE
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I did not. Should I? I think I should....
start it running and crack open the oil line on left side of bike, right? Oil everywhere = good pressure and just a drip means an issue...if I remember reading correctly. Idling at 850 to 900 RPM...
BTW....what is redline for these 1600s? How do you know aside from hooking up an aftermarket tach?
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