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OEM vs aftermarket lifters

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  • OEM vs aftermarket lifters

    Although the melling JB2011 and sealed power HT2011 hydraulic lifters are dimensionally the same as the Yamaha oem lifters, i did a through comparison and the biggest difference i found was with the check valve, the Yamaha lifter uses a diapragm style spring under a steel wafer for the check valve while sealed power and melling use coil springs and steel balls , I'm pretty sure that yamaha uses stanadyne lifters for all their bikes that use hydraulic flat tappets, personally i believe a ball would have less chance of getting stuck than a flat wafer when used as a check valve. The oil channels in lifter body are slightly different but close enough to be of no concern. Its a good idea when using melling or sealed power lifters to hold a pushrod into the plunger while slowly rotating the engine just to be sure the lifter turns in the bore it should turn almost a half turn Everytime the cam lobe hits it

  • #2
    I did not know that lifters need to turn in the bore. Can you explain more?

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    • #3
      All flat cams/lifters have a slight angle, where the cam has a slight taper, and the lifter has a slight convex bottom. Having a narrow outer contact, this causes the lifter to turn in the lifter bore as the cam rotates. When you pull a lifter out to inspect the lifter and cam, you should see a wear ring pattern around the bottom if the lifter if it been working good with the cam. The lifter bottom should be checked for a slight convex using a straight edge. If it's flat or concave, throw the lifter away and check the cam closely.

      Myself, if the lifter and cam look good, I'll reuse the lifter because it is seasoned together, before I'll replace the old lifter for a new lifter. Through out my experience, and what I've read from cam companies, when you are breaking in the cam & lifters, they hardening the contact mating area and they season together. If they don't season together, then they can stop rotating, and won't last long before wearing out.

      The internal parts of a lifter are very dependable and seldom go bad as long as it has had clean oil run thru it.

      Comment


      • Duke
        Duke commented
        Editing a comment
        Sorry for butting in Paul, I didn't mean to cut into your thread.
        When reading I thought could answer Shores. I guess I was bored!

    • #4
      Good info Paul. It's been a few thousand miles and so far my Melling lifters are holding up alright. I suspect if there was a problem it would show up pretty quickly wouldn't it? I just changed the oil last week and found nothing of concern on the drain plug magnet; maybe I should cut open the filter just to see.

      Comment


      • #5
        I just finished up with new lifters in rear cylinder after doing the front it got so quiet it made the rear cylinder lifter noise more noticeable, now i know why i got this bike for 1800 the dealer probably thought the engine noises were something more serious than 2 bad exhaust lifters, my friend at a diesel engine machine shop did some measuring on the two front lifters that came out and they were way out of spec on the plunger to lifter body clearance, more than 3 thousandths when it should be 1.5 to 2 what ever company Yamaha used to supply their lifters did a piss poor job there are a lot posts on other forums about bad lifters in warriors and raiders.too,

        Comment


        • Doc_V
          Doc_V commented
          Editing a comment
          Well that would explain it. Good job with the research. So it sounds like we're actually better off with the Melling or Sealed Power lifters.

        • Duke
          Duke commented
          Editing a comment
          What I've researched with lifters is that there is only a few companies making lifters, and sometime around the late 80s early 90s the manufacturing went to China. Quality control was different for different companies. Not for sure if this would be part of the problems, but I would think that it plays a roll with quality of the lifters.

      • #6
        Who Knows ? I'm running on 110,000 mile Lifters and the just keep on TICKING !

        Comment


        • Doc_V
          Doc_V commented
          Editing a comment
          It's obviously not a common issue, but clearly some R*s are effected by it. Be grateful you got one of the good ones.

      • #7
        reiterate the importance of using the correct motor oil with adequate zinc. i have a question for you guys that are gear-heads as your occupation: a lot of people just slap on aftermarket exhaust without proppa jetting; can this contribute to the lifter issue due to overheating?

        Comment


        • Horsehammerr
          Horsehammerr commented
          Editing a comment
          Good Oil EVERY 3,000 MILES

      • #8
        When I purchased my bike it had what I believe was a sticky valve.
        I did the SVS cure method and that seemed to relieve it. Late that season it seemed to act up again and so I did the procedure again.
        Since then (it’s been a few years) I don’t believe I’m having a sticky valve issue but it never has been quite right.
        Perhaps it is the lifters after all.
        The best I think I can characterize it would be that, especially when it is cold, out idles in a unpredictable way.
        Very similar to SVS actually but seemingly different somehow.

        Comment


        • #9
          do a SVS treament and see if it fixes it again.

          Comment

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