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  • Fork oil confusion

    Hello I'm going to be treating into rattlecan roadie this week on the block is the progressive letting springs for the front I'm just wondering about the fork oil as there are lots of weights brands and such what would be recommended for this project? Any information and explaination on this or a link to the answer would be wonderful thank you so much
    I have accepted once I started on a path of customization my bike will never actually be "finished" I'm ok with that

  • #2
    Did you look in the tech section? That is a pretty popular project.
    Life is tough, it's even tougher if your stupid----John Wayne

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    • MikeyC
      MikeyC commented
      Editing a comment
      O.K. I just looked, there is nothing there. HEY!! Some of you guys that are good at writing and have done the spring replacement and gold emulators, a nice tech article on that would answer a lot of questions

  • #3
    If you're just doing the Progressive springs, (stock is only 5w) you should upgrade to a 10w. If you're doing Racetech Gold Emulators too, then 15w. Most brands are good but BelRay is very popular.

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    • Spydr
      Spydr commented
      Editing a comment
      I've always prefered BelRay.

  • #4
    I use 12.5wt

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    • Bikerron
      Bikerron commented
      Editing a comment
      They didn’t bite.

      Smart crowd. There’s usually one asking, “Where do I get that?”

    • Doc_V
      Doc_V commented
      Editing a comment
      Funny you should mention that. I'm actually running 12.5wt right now. Had some 15 and some 10 but not enough of either, so had to mix them... So 12.5wt. Ha.

  • #5
    I used 7w with stock springs and at 180 pounds.

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    • #6
      I used 10w with my stock. Still nose dives. Looking to Racetech springs only & 10w change in the spring.

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      • #7
        i liked 10wt as well. fork oil weight wont stop nose dive, just slow it down is all. same thing when you hit a bump. slows how fast your forks open and close.
        my Wallet is Getting dangerously close to spontaneous combustion

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        • #8
          well got a set of the lowering springs giving to me by another clinic member and will be first time diving into the front suspension on my bike kind of excited to learn more and apprehensive as I want Safety to be utmost importance
          I have accepted once I started on a path of customization my bike will never actually be "finished" I'm ok with that

          Comment


          • #9
            That's the best way to learn. FYI- It's best to remove the fork tube when installing the new springs. When its off the bike, dump the old fluid out, then pour in some ATF, pump the fork tube several times and dump it out. This will help flush out any old gunk that settles at the bottom of the fork tube. Do it at least twice, until the ATF comes out clean. Also, more important than getting the right height of fluid when you reassemble, i.e. 40mm vs 42mm, [or whatever the spec is] is making sure both sides are the same. If one fork is different than the other, you get uneven compression which effects handling. Also, and this is very important, springs are matched for rate, NOT length. It's common to have two springs of different length, so be sure you match the correct spacer with the correct spring. Measure the length of the spring and spacer together, making sure each pair is the same length, i.e. you'll have a longer spring with shorter spacer, and shorter spring with longer spacer. Otherwise you could end up with one side significantly longer than the other and this too will effect handling.
            Last edited by Doc_V; 6 days ago.

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            • #10
              Thanks Doc all good points to remember also can I reuse the seals or is this something I need to replace as well? I take tons of pictures on anything I disassemble just as a safe guard as I'm learning to do everything myself ran into several hiccups when doing things that left me down until parts came in so I'm trying to make sure I have everything prior to yeat down as it's starting to warm up here and I got an itch to ride and don't want unforeseen delays other than painting which had to wait as my storage is not heated
              I have accepted once I started on a path of customization my bike will never actually be "finished" I'm ok with that

              Comment


              • #11
                Normally, if you're just doing springs, it's not required. But given the age of your bike it couldn't hurt. It is a bit more of a job, but if you're not afraid of a little extra work, no better time to do it. I just ordered all the rebuild parts myself; check out this thread here for a list of the items.

                Comment


                • #12
                  Here's the parts list I order, obviously you don't need the fuel level sender and the Metal Slides may not be necessary. I ordered them because I found metal shavings in the oil I dumped when I did my springs.


                  Click image for larger version

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ID:	58766

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                  • #13
                    i have never seen miss matched spring lenghts but be carfull when you unthrrad the fork caps. they are under a lot of spring pressure and will turn into missiles if yiu dont have a good hold on them. and also you can damage the super fine threads.
                    my Wallet is Getting dangerously close to spontaneous combustion

                    Comment


                    • #14
                      Also, you should mark where the cap threads start to catch on the tubes threads. If not, you have a great chance of cross-threading when installing the caps under spring pressure.

                      Comment


                      • #15
                        Originally posted by Smokescreens View Post
                        i have never seen miss matched spring lenghts but be carfull when you unthrrad the fork caps. they are under a lot of spring pressure and will turn into missiles if yiu dont have a good hold on them. and also you can damage the super fine threads.
                        It's not like one will be 3 inches shorter than the other, but if one is even 1/4 inch shorter, and you mix the spacers, you now have a 1/2 inch difference preload between the two sides and that will affect handling.

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