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Need help - can't get new rocker arm shaft in!

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  • Need help - can't get new rocker arm shaft in!

    After reading the service manual, posting questions here, and even talking to a motorcycle mechanic, there was no mention of specifics about how to install the new rocker arm shaft, so I pulled the old one out and now I can't get the rocker arm to align to install the new shaft. The pushrod is preventing me from aligning the rocker arm. If I remove the pushrod, I can slide the shaft in no problem. I've got the engine at top dead center, and I've tried pushing down on the pushrod but no such luck. The bike has been sitting for more than 24 hours anyway and I would have thought the lifters would have bled down by now.

    So now What? I can't proceed until I can figure out how to get this damn thing in and I could use some suggestions.

    BTW On the second one I used the new shaft to push out the old shaft. Took all of 10 seconds. Wish I had thought about that before.
    Last edited by Doc_V; 09-30-2018, 06:58 PM.

  • #2
    Mine went right down, of course I don't how long it's been since it was last run. Would backing the valve adjuster out make any difference? Then rotate it to true tdc and cold adjust the valve ?

    Comment


    • #3
      Already back to the adjuster out all the way in, didn't help.

      Comment


      • #4
        pull the top rocker assembly plate (#17 in the parts fiche). IIRC it has a steel gasket under it that should be reusable.

        Comment


        • #5
          Ahh... That'd do it. Thanks Dave!

          BTW, the Rocker Shaft Bolts, #23 on your diagram, according to the 1700 supplemental service guide, are to be torqued to 17 ft lbs. but they were *seriously* hard to break loose, what I'dl call, PFT! Does 17 ft lbs sound right to you?
          Last edited by Doc_V; 09-30-2018, 09:04 PM.

          Comment


          • #6
            probably about right. you can find a tq chart online and look up tq for that size bolt and use that tq for reference.

            Comment


            • #7

              Comment


              • #8
                Ok... so based on your chart, which is both #23? Is there a legend somewhere in the service manuals?

                Comment


                • #9
                  From memory they are M10. Grade 4.8 would be my guess, there is no reason for them to be any higher grade. If that is the spec you found in the manual(17lbs) and that is what the chart says for a M10-4.8 I would say you are good to go at 17LBS. The spec you found isn't 17lbs because it is a Yamaha rocker shaft it is because engineering calculated that size bolt to hold it and then use the Tq for best securing that size/grade bolt.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Just remember the threads that the bolt goes into is aluminum.
                    like Dave said, go with 17#.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Got her back together. Thanks again Dave. I didn't have to remove the Rocker Support, just completely loosen all the Rocker Support bolts, and it gave me enough play to align everything and insert the shaft. I could have saved myself all that trouble though if I'd just pushed the old shaft out using the new one. Would have taken less than 10 seconds per shaft. Oh well; live and learn.
                      Last edited by Doc_V; 10-03-2018, 05:33 PM.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Now we all know how to do it. Glad you got-er done.
                        Hey Doc, let us know if it fixed your bike. Thanks.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Motor is more quiet, runs noticeably smoother and has better low/mid range, however, I only did the front cylinder, because I wasn't 100% certain the shafts were the cause, and didn't want to waste the money on all four if they weren't. There's still some noise from the rear cylinder, but not nearly as bad as it was, and given the amount of wear on both shafts I pulled, I do plan to replace the rears. Both intake and exhaust shafts had obvious wear, but the exhaust shaft had so much wear I could feel the ridge, especially with my fingernail.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	Front Cylinder, Intake Rocker Shaft Wear Marks.JPG Views:	1 Size:	126.7 KB ID:	41617

                          New shafts have NO marks...

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	New Rocker Saft, No Marks.JPG Views:	1 Size:	90.1 KB ID:	41618

                          I also measured the grooves that the retaining bolts slot in to and the new grooves are both .236" where as the old shafts were .255" and .256"

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	Old vs New Rocker Shaft copy.JPG Views:	1 Size:	90.7 KB ID:	41619

                          It's so easy to do that I high recommend inspecting the the shafts *anytime* you adjust the valves. I'll post a more thorough writeup explaining how later. Stay tuned for that thread.
                          Last edited by Doc_V; 10-03-2018, 05:28 PM.

                          Comment


                          • roadiemort
                            roadiemort commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Low idle settings might cause premature wear here?

                          • Rob in FL
                            Rob in FL commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Lots of people like the tater tater sound you get from low idle

                          • Doc_V
                            Doc_V commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Sounds entirely possible. The original owner could have had it set too low. It's as good an argument as any for keeping the idle set properly.
                            Last edited by Doc_V; 10-03-2018, 05:30 PM.

                        • #14
                          Thank you Doc. That's good to know and will check mine next check up.

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            What am I doing wrong trying to put the rocker arm base back on but can't get it to sit flat with push rods in. The motor is at tdc.

                            Comment


                            • roadiemort
                              roadiemort commented
                              Editing a comment
                              I think the pushrods aren't all the same length and need to be in the right spot.

                          • #16
                            Yeah on the rear cylinder the intake pushrod is longer I have it in the right location

                            Comment


                            • #17
                              Have you loosened the adjustable rocker arm? Doesn’t seem like a good idea to torque things down if you haven’t.

                              Comment


                              • #18
                                I did but the non adjustable arm is still touching the valve

                                Comment


                                • #19
                                  C'mon Doc I know you are better than this, you knew the answer all along you just wanted to post another thread. The answer is "just get a bigger hammer," man are you losing your mind, I cant believe you would forget that.

                                  Rod

                                  Comment


                                  • roadiemort
                                    roadiemort commented
                                    Editing a comment
                                    Doc_V hasn't visited us on here since May this year which is odd for an Admin.

                                  • brianmac
                                    brianmac commented
                                    Editing a comment
                                    Hopefully hes ok

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