Can't stop/find oil leak!

[Devonlopez219]

I got a roadstar from a guy off marketplace, and I already know this is going to sound pretty sketch, but the deal is done, all I can do is fix whatever is going on. It has 34k miles, pretty ol bike without a doubt. Doesn't have a major major issue (that I think at least...) but I know when I got it, they had a new stator and charging system put in, but didn't put gasket back on after crankcase covers were put back on, they just used that RTV Silicone sealant and it did not work whatsoever. I got gaskets for it, did the left side of it and it was nothing but that sealant that had warmed up and just seeped out and was letting oil come out. Did right side, and they left original gasket on & used sealant as well. It was a mess, but I got job done. I'm not sure if oil is dripping out from adding oil to filler hole when I forgot to drain the rest of oil, or if it's leaking from somewhere else around the area under the seat, but I see drips still unless I forgot to wipe those clean, will check tomorrow but I do still see oil coming slightly from the right side around where some wire comes out from the crankcase cover. Will take pics tomorrow and add them, but it's hard to tell whats going on cause it has had lots of oil leak from that Silicone and oil spraying back when being rode around and its just a nasty oily mess under bike. Main point of it all, if the gaskets slightly leak still, what next? & is there anywhere underneath around where the seat is on bike that can leak oil towards the frame and back wheel? I also need to get bigger jets put on, the guy had put fishtail exhaust on it but left carb all stock. I'm sure it's gunked up too.. it does not like to run when first started up, even on warm day. Needs to be choked for a bit otherwise it bogs down when riding and cuts out after I hear a big gush from breather. Someone help please lol

[Mr. Miyagi]

from Texarkana, in the Arklatex. The smart guys should be along in a little while.

[Lug Nut]

Well first of all I would drain the oil completely remove the filter by new oil buy new filter but don't put it on yet. I would get brand new gaskets for the stator cover. It's a pain in the ass to scrape all the old stuff off but you absolutely have to if you wanted to seal up right. Carefully scrape all the old gasket material and sealant and all that other bullshit off of both the cover and the bike side. I mean spotlessly clean. When you have an area that has wire sticking out You're going to have to use some Permatex ultra gray on that area. I also don't mind using Permatex ultra gray on both sides of a new gasket as well. Torque it down to factory specifications. When you say stator and charging system that would indicate to me the regulator rectifier which is at the front part of the bike and the battery. I'm not sure why they hand the left side cover off, the crankcase cover. However if that covers messing a gasket you will want to buy a new gasket and also do the same thing of carefully scraping all the old gasket off both the engine side and the cover side and making it spotlessly clean. Then a new gasket with a little bit of Permatex on each side is a good thing. Cannot stress enough to get OEM factory gaskets and again don't go on eBay and buy the ones for $9 that are green lol. Torque to factory specification. Also the bolts are different lengths so you want to keep track of where they came out of. A manual can help with this quite a bit...The manual will have the bolt lengths and positions they go into.

It would be nice to know if they bought Factory Yamaha stator, rectifier, etc. You'll find out because if those Parts take a shit then they probably bought eBay Caltrac Chinese-made junk parts. Always replace electrical parts on a Yamaha with factory Yamaha parts. They're much more expensive but they last.


You'll want to replace the copper crush washers on the oil drain plugs and make real sure that you get the other crush washers off of there....Sometimes the original crush washers are left on and flattened out so you hardly even see them but you can pick them off with a sharp edge of a pocket knife. Once you have the gaskets Replaced and everything sealed up nice and tight and torqued down to factory specification let it sit overnight for the Permatext to set up. then to fill the oil you want to add 2 quarts, replace the dipstick fully, start the bike and let it idle for 25 seconds Don't rev it. Then Remove the dipstick add two more quarts of oil and you're done. Four quarts. No more no less. Make sure to use the right type of oil too. If you're not sure I can give you I can name you three top choices that people have used with absolutely no problems and absolutely great success. Shell Rotella T6 15w40, Amsoil synthetic v-twin, mobile one synthetic V-twin,. Not car oil nothing with friction modifiers not Harley oil. Just stick with one of those three I mentioned and you will absolutely be fine.

Be very careful when you disassemble your carburetor to clean it. In the last year or two I've seen probably 20 people talk about all the issues they have after taking their carb apart. Use genuine Yamaha gaskets and replacement parts whenever possible because the shitty rebuild kits you get off eBay don't work very well.

We need to know more about your bike to help you out thoroughly. What year, how many miles, and exactly what modifications are done? What kind of air filter assembly and air filter do you have right now? Pictures would also be helpful. You may not need to reject your carb if you have the stock air intake system. Do you have baffles in your exhaust?

[Devonlopez219]

Sorry. I leave out good Info often lol. It's a 2001 Roadstar 1600. 34k miles. I bought it with 16 inch ape hangers on, LA Chopper Big Breather, not sure the style or brand exactly. Aftermarket fishtails do not have baffles in them. I have the stock air breather and intake system. I cleaned off a good amount of that oil, whatever I could reach with dawn dish soap and paper towel. I did unfortunately have the dang cheapo gasket, it was a $35 kit with both covers for left and right, and 2 others I'm not sure what part they are for. But oil is cleaned up so will see if it's still leaking. I think the gaskets are doing ok for now, just seeps out on the right side where wire fits into the groove on casing. Posting pics of bike and that wire that I just mentioned

[Dapster77]

Does the magnet casing around the stator need to come off in order to do a really good gasket removal ?

[Brad_G]

from Solon, IA

There is a lot of good information from Lug Nut above. One thing you'll want to do is get some soaking cleaner designed to de-grease an engine. It's tough to know if you're still leaking with a slimy oily engine and frame. Also these bikes are a bit cold blooded so pulling out the enricher to start it and ride off until warm isn't out of character. But it would help to know what jets are inside the carb and what you have for air cleaner/intake along with exhaust.

[Lug Nut]

Yes I forgot to mention I would use full strength simple green on the motor and the underside of the chassis and motor wipe it down really good rinse it dry it so you can actually see where the leak is coming from.

[Shores]

34,000 mi is nothing for these motorcycles! It's barely broken in. Be careful with degreaser, it may etch any engine covers that are anodized silver or black. Get the gasket situation figured out, change the oil as lug nut said and then get back with the gurus here on proper carb jetting. They will need to know the year and what jets are currently in the carb.

[brianmac]

totally awesome 10$ a gallon works great too. mine was leaking just a few days ago where the 3 stator wires go in. bike lift, get under, flashlight , i just carefullt dull flat blate scredriver reseated it back in , leak seems to be gone..
here is link to face butt incl a pic

https://www.facebook.com/groups/45796756729/search/?q=oil%20leak%20right%20side

[Duke]

As LugNut said, use factory gaskets! That stater cover has the main oil pressure going thru it, and you definitely want a good seal. If the gasket were to lose seal around the oil port, you could lose oil pressure going internally and not know it.

[Devonlopez219]

Here is the breather, bike itself, wire that goes into casing on right side (underside) , and the packet that gaskets came in the mail on.

[Devonlopez219]

[Devonlopez219]

Here is gasket kit

[Duke]

If the gaskets that are green are "like a plastic", then I wouldn't use them. If they are made of a paper type compound, then I'd use them. Thru my experience and knowledge, the plastic type gaskets will leak.

[brianmac]

use OEM everything, a scraper led carefully by a heatgun, makes short order of stuck gaskets, BUT WATCH OUT FOR WIRES AND HEAT SNSITIVE PARTS, u will melt them. the pic u poste, is that after it was cleaned, do u see any oil dripping?

[Lug Nut]

Return this shit gaskets and get OEM Yamaha gaskets. Period. And buy a tube of Permatex Ultra Grey...this is useful around the wire area. Slap some on and let everything setup 8 hrs / overnight before adding oil or running bike. Again can't stress enough You need to make sure both surfaces are supremely clean and free of old gasket material. Takes a long time to do it by hand with the razor and be careful not to neck the metal. Rolock discs work but you still have to do some hand work.

[Devonlopez219]

Did you see the pictures of my breather i had posted above?

[Devonlopez219]

So here is an updated picture after cleaning all the gunk from it, a slight trickle of oil I seen. No drips from the casings that usually had oil drips so that's a plus. It seems oil come out from that wire harness that sticks out side of casing so that permatex should do the trick. I will note, I have not started it up yet so not sure if that will make a difference or not as far as if it will leak from gaskets or casing where it used to.

[Lug Nut]

Have to clean/degrease everything real well
have to buy OEM Yamaha gaskets for stator as well as clutch cover
.have to clean off all old gasket and sealant used on all surfaces. Spotless. Razor blade, rag with brake cleaner etc. Clean clean. No residue left. The area around the wire harness need to be cleaned as well and when pushing back in the "alot" use Permatext ultra grey.

Ally thin coat of Permatex Ultra Grey to gasket on clutch cover side and position corectly.

Do same for stator cover gasket

Then install the covers and make sure you have toe correct length bolts in the right places and torque to correct spec

Leave it alone overnight

Put fresh oil back in it.

Try it out.

I would also remove your carb and check jetting and needle.....tell us what you find for jets and take pictures of the needle with the spacers/washers installed as they were