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Any tips for installing Barnett clutch spring conversion?

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  • Any tips for installing Barnett clutch spring conversion?

    06 1700 with 40k miles. I notice that the clutch slips in high gear when accelerating hard.

    From reading here I think Barnett clutch spring conversion with stock plates is the way to go.

    So here's my plan of action with a few questions. Would appreciate any comments or helpful tips you might have.

    Parts:
    Clutch Cover Gasket - I see different brands on ebay and others. Does it matter or should I get the OEM? Seems like other brands are easier and faster to get.
    Barnett spring conversion Kit: PN 511-90-10002. I have read that they come with different spring strengths but I can only find this part number. Should I get heavier springs and does anyone have the PN? I don't want more clutch pull if I can avoid it. I'm ok with it being a bit heavier but not much if possible.

    Hoping plates are ok, I'm planning to take it apart first and inspect per manual. If they're out of spec I'll order the OEM plates and the whole thing will have to wait for a week.

    Other than that-
    Drain oil - can I only drain the engine and not the reservoir? (I changed my oil about 500m ago, running Mobil V-Twin)
    Take bolts out and remember which goes where
    Remove gasket (not worried about that part I have removed gaskets from aluminium)
    Remove plates etc
    Inspect and clean plates - brake cleaner, maybe fine sandpaper 800-1000 grit?
    Install spring conversion and pay attention when torquing

    That's about it- or am I missing something?

    I read the manual and it mentions some special tools to hold the clutch in place. Assume that's not really needed?

    Thanks for any helpful tips in advance.






  • #2
    Make sure you have your manual. I have a series of videos showing the clutch out and then putting everything back together. You want to scuff up the steels pretty good. I used 180 grit DA sander on both sides make sure to rinse them off for a while obviously. Check your friction discs for thickness. Manual has low end of spec to inspect for the thickness. Follow the directions in the manual precisely with orientation of dots and how things go back together. Flat slash sharp side of steels towards the motor. If you want videos shoot me an email or easier is to message me on Facebook

    [email protected]

    fB Scott Bojrab
    LET'S RIDE

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks. I'll order the parts and get started when they arrive.

      Are you using the heavier springs or are the ones that come with the barnett sufficient?

      I'm on the fence ordering oem clutch plate kit just in case. Comes with gasket for $139 on ebay.. if I dont need it I can still sell it.

      Comment


      • #4
        From what you have said, it looks like you are right in line with what you need to do.
        You can remove the clutch cover without removing any oil if you have the bike leaning to the right side. Just be careful about getting any crap in it when the cover's off.
        As for the cover gasket, I recommend a OEM gaskets. I have seen some plastic green looking gaskets that do not seal very good, but most of the other gaskets work fairly well.
        The springs that comes with the Barnett's conversion plate will work just fine as long as you inspect the clutch discs like you said. If the steel plates aren't blued, then I would think you friction plates are ok.
        If you do use new friction plates, I myself would use ATF to soak them in before installing.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks guys, excellent advice.

          I'll take it apart once I have the parts and will take it from there. will be back here when the time comes. I have a feeling it wont be long. Looking forward to this.

          Comment


          • #6
            Make a pattern of the side cover on a piece of cardboard and make holes in it for you to put the bolts in as you remove them.

            Comment


            • #7
              If you need to buy clutch steals or friction disks get OEM not the Barnett ones. The Barnett spring conversion kit is wonderful but stick with Yamaha OEM friction discs if you need to replace
              LET'S RIDE

              Comment


              • #8
                05 and later has a nut for the clutch housing that you stake. The wire for the clutch cover is a real pain in the ass to feed down the hole. Clean it in place or Jack the bike up high enough where you can get your head under there and see where to fish that wire through there's a yamaha cable tie in there it hangs on. Careful use of a heat gun in front of 12 in razor scraper makes quick work. Careful not to burn anything wiring harnesses underneath. Tork of Barnett part is in in lbs. Not foot pounds. The towers on the Barnett Part will may hit on inside of the clutch housing, you may need to index it, fancy word for rotate 1/6 until it seats.

                Comment


                • #9
                  brianmac you are right I see the difference in the 1700 supplement manual. I think you are referring to the 'clutch boss nut' that needs to be staked.

                  To take the plates out and install the spring conversion, it looks to me like I wont have to take that nut off as the basket 'boss' can stay on the bike, right?

                  Comment


                  • Duke
                    Duke commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Don't need to take off that nut.

                • #10
                  Use an inch-lb torque wrench. Don't guess. I overdid mine the first time and busted a bolt pedestal on the clutch boss. Not a fun day.
                  Manuals, Roadwing, other stuff
                  PGR
                  PGT MT

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    All same advice I followed as above noted from others. Used an OEM gasket after eventually taking the old one off. Very important to torque to inch pound specs. Some discussions when I was going to do and when completed.

                    https://www.roadstarclinic.com/forum...arnett-upgrade


                    https://www.roadstarclinic.com/forum...ing-conversion

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      Thanks Duke I'm glad you say that. Was not planning to take the basket off, just remove the spring plate and pressure plate and then the friction plates and clutch plates should come out.

                      Tykes_Place very good point I have one of these and like it a lot. Also use their bigger version https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        Don't have to take it off, but if I'm all the way in there I'm checking to make sure that nut is properly torked and staked. One of the books says put it in 5th gear, and have an assistant put their foot on the rear brake when loosening and torking

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          The wire that comes with the clutch kit was the most annoying part to put on. Took me a few tries. Had to use some tiny tools to keep it in place as I worked my way around.

                          Made the swap at about 50k miles. Great decision. Swapped out friction disc's and plates with oem.

                          Barnet springs tire out my clutch hand in heavy traffic lol

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            ok I got my Barnett spring plate and a new gasket.

                            Looking at the Barnett part, is it the right one for the 06 1700 R*? I seem to remember to have seen sealed bearings but maybe they change the design now and then.

                            Also I don't get the last step on the Barnett instruction sheet ' 8) Tighten 6 screws until they bottom. Torque 5-6 Ft/lbs' -- which screws do they mean? It's not the bolts on the plate I believe because they have different torque specs and they will of course go in before putting the cover back on and filling with oil..?
                            Attached Files

                            Comment


                            • #16
                              They must be just calling the bolts screws. Make sure you have an inch pound torque wrench and not a foot pound wrench. It's such a low torque, you're likely to strip or break things if you're not extremely accurate.

                              Comment


                              • #17
                                OK here we go. Covers are off.

                                The gasket stayed completely on the engine side and looks 8n perfect shape! I may just leave it there and this could be a quick job!

                                Will be inspecting the plates next.
                                Attached Files

                                Comment


                                • Brad_G
                                  Brad_G commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  "could be a quick job!" Anytime I say those words it comes back to bite me in the ass. Good luck and hope it goes smooth.

                              • #18
                                " I may just leave it there and this could be a quick job! "

                                Following...
                                With enough beer you can do anything...D.Pate

                                Comment


                                • #19
                                  I know.. famous last words!

                                  Anyway checked the plates. The friction plates are between 2.87 and 2.92. Manual says service limit is 2.8


                                  Steel plates no discoloring or warpage that I can see.


                                  Looks good to me, I'm about to stick it back together and put the spring plate on.

                                  What do you guys think? Should I sand up the steels a bit?
                                  Attached Files

                                  Comment


                                  • #20
                                    You're the very bottom end of spec on the clutch discs. Unless you want to take these back out 10,000 mi down the road I would go ahead and put all new wind now. That's what I did on my '03. They were at 2.90. If I were inspecting the bike to sell maybe reuse those but for me to keep for years and years I would just put fresh ones in there I think brand new they're around 3.1 or so. Maybe 3.2. I like knowing that after I went through that clutch and inspected the oil pump gear and put in a stiffer spring I should be happy with this for the next 75,000 mi and not have to worry about clutch issues.on another purple road star that I have I have the Barnett clutch spring kit and the original friction discs and steels. I started getting clutch slip and higher gear so I put all new steels and friction discs in. They were at 2.80. So even with the stronger spring when they get depleted they will slip. Figure is going to cost $120 or so for all new friction discs and then you resurface the steels and of course check them for flatness but they should be fine. Then you're done for realistically as long as you're going to own the bike in most cases. Not have to open it back up.


                                    The steels I would always clean and sand. I used simple green to clean them get the oil off dry them well. Put them in a bench vise and use a DA sander with 180 grit on each side all the way around. Pretty quick to sit down and do all of them and it makes a really nice surface to grab onto.
                                    LET'S RIDE

                                    Comment

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