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Engine guys need your input: Working w/ maker of Rocker Lockers to make a R* version

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  • davej
    replied
    Yes it could but that is more work and expense than needed to lock it in place. The groove would have to also be cut smaller to fit the bolt tight and not sloppy like the OEM fit.The 1600's have a solid shaft and the 1700's have a hollow shaft so imo if I was gonna do it like that on a 1700 I would flip the shaft end for end so I didn't weaken the hollow shaft by having 2 groove cut into the same end.

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  • Aussie John
    replied
    Just a thought, could the rocker shaft be rotated and a new grove be machined into it to accept the original bolt ???

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  • Duke
    commented on 's reply
    The pressurized oil goes to the rocker part of the heads, pushing oil to the intake valve springs, then the oil runs to the exhaust side to help cool the heads.
    Push rods feed oil to the rocker arms, then runs to the rocker tips oiling the valve tops.

  • Pauli466
    replied
    For anyone interested i was trying to figure out what the small oil lines going to the top end lubricated, turns out, nothing all they do is pressurize a small pocket of oil between the rocker box and the chrome cover, that it the oil can't even flow it just sits in that pocket with nowhere to escape, does anyone else see it this way

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  • davej
    replied
    Looks good Doc, I think you will be happy with the results.

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  • Doc_V
    replied
    Nice Dave; I'm encouraged by your results. ...After a short learning curve, and getting the right hardware together, I got my first set of Rocker Lockers installed today. ...Stay tuned.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1683.jpg Views:	2 Size:	1.32 MB ID:	111561

    Leave a comment:


  • davej
    commented on 's reply
    There are a few threads locking it and it sticks thru a little with a 10-24x1/2. Keep in mind that it also has the factory thru bolt locking the shaft and as long as the shaft has no motion the stress is almost non existent. If you remove the plate you could drill/tap both ends if you were concerned about stress. I think it will be OK the way it is. I also tapped the tower and the shaft to lock them together.

  • Pauli466
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks, ill make a decision during winter to lock my new shafts in like you did or use locktite 648 what scares me is there can't be much tread in the shaft for that bolt to hold onto, but then there isn't much stress on it either

  • Pauli466
    commented on 's reply
    You think if lock the new shafts in with locktite retaining compound 648 i still be able get it apart if needed.

  • davej
    commented on 's reply
    Steve, I didn't take the assembly off so no readjustment needed. Even if I had taken it off an adjustment wouldn't be needed. I don't think there will be any issues with egging out, it is locked tight so there is no movement to allow for egging out and the shaft is very hard steel. I stuffed a rag around the pushrod tube access and used a shop vac next to the drilling that sucked up the shavings as they were made. no mess or shavings whatsoever. I wore out a new cobalt drill bit on 4 holes though.lol

  • Shores
    commented on 's reply
    Great job Dave! Do you think the threaded hole in the tube will eventually egg out? How did you prevent tap debris from entering the tube or the engine? Did you have to readjust the valves afterward?

  • davej
    replied
    Pauli466, Just thru the tower and 1 side of the shaft with a grade 5, 10-24 bolt and red loctite

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  • Pauli466
    commented on 's reply
    Is that bolt just going through one side of the pipe or all the way through and into the aluminum base, is it 6 mm

  • davej
    replied
    Well I had a chance to do a rocker mod to my bike today. Between DocV, Duke and myself we have come up with a few different ways to accomplish locking the rocker shaft to the rocker tower to stop movement. I took a simple approach by just drilling the tower and shaft then tapping the hole and bolting it down. Well it worked. My bike is now quiet, no more of the excessive upper end ticking. When I took it apart it even seemed to be tight and not much if any movement of the rocker shaft when trying to move by hand. I am very happy with the results of this simple mod. Click image for larger version

Name:	Inkedrocker bolt mod_LI.jpg
Views:	196
Size:	37.7 KB
ID:	111447

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  • Doc_V
    replied
    I'm waiting on a drill press I ordered. I'm hoping to get to the inserts next weekend.

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  • davej
    replied
    I have come up with what I think is a simple and adequate fix for the 1700's. Although if the rocker lockers that DocV has posted about become available they might be a little easier fix for someone that would rather install a insert instead of drilling and tapping into the rocker shaft that is my fix. Duke is working on the fix for the 1600's we come up with a step bolt idea for the 1600's due to the shaft lock bolt is going into a blind hole on the 1600's instead of a thru hole like on the 1700's. Here is the simple fix I come up with. The pic is done on an extra rocker assembly I have and not not done on my bike yet. The bolt would be installed on both ends of the rocker shaft and a grade 5 minimum bolt used with red loctite. The bolt in the pic is a 10-24 size bolt.

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  • LDofDC
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    commented on 's reply
    PM sent.

  • Pauli466
    replied
    I have two rocker boxes off 2006 pm me and they're yours just pay shipping. The rocker arms and inner shafts included, believe it or not the black and silver 1700s use different boxes these are black my engine is silver, they bolt up but they are different especially where the pushrod tube fits in. Part # 5VN 11141-00 BLACK MOTOR #5VN 11141-10 SILVER MOTOR , both numbers 2006 the fin edges are ground flat on black motors and rounded on silver ones, they're a completely different casting shape wise too

    Leave a comment:


  • davej
    commented on 's reply
    could you convert that to mm bolt size and thread pitch.

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