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  • Brake job

    Is there anything special that I need to know before doing a brake job on my 02 roadie? Disks look and feel great. Should one side be done before the other? Anything that makes it easier to do the rear pads?
    The shop that installed the front tire said that one set of pads looked new and the other (on front) were worn down to almost metal on metal contact. Hoping that it was laziness by the previous owner and not a problem with the calipers.
    Any word of advice on brakes on these things would be appreciated.

  • #2
    It depends, how experienced are you at doing a brake job? Are you just replacing the pads or the fluid too? It's not a terribly hard job, just a lot of little steps we can skip if you've done this before and save a lot of typing.

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    • #3
      Simple task. One side of front caliper may be stuck with grime thus wearing uneven. I had to replace my seals at 60K. Make sure all pistons move easily. Use pad grease between back of pads and pistons.

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      • #4
        Thanks guys. I have always done my own brakes on cars and on my Kawasaki but have never done anything with dual discs. Rear end looks like I will spend more time taking off the saddlebag getting to it than actually changing pads.
        I will probably go ahead and push new fluid through while I am already there and dirty anyway.

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        • Shores
          Shores commented
          Editing a comment
          Just 4 bolts to remove the right saddle bag. Two bolts to remove the caliper.

      • #5
        Clean brake calipers with plenty of brake cleaner and a toothbrush... Inspect pistons and make they move freely. I bleed with a power vacuum bleeder (hooks to air... Best way to do it. MityVac didn't work for me at all. I use PRESTONE DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid and EBC HH pads on all my bikes with great results. Clean brake lever area also and may need to adjust screw/10mm bolt that allows for lever-to-plunger travel to get it just right.
        LET'S RIDE

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        • #6
          You may have a stuck piston on the side that's worn. Check by applying the brakes a couple times and see if any of the pistons don't retract back into the caliper. If so, like LugNut said, you'll need to give the piston[s] a good cleaning. Start on the side with the stuck piston, only remove one pad at a time, leaving the other pad in on the opposite side of the disc.

          With the pad removed, **slowly** apply the brake so the pistons begins to extend. Note: if only one piston is stuck place the old pad behind the good piston while you're applying the brakes to keep it from popping out. Continue to apply the brake until you see an obvious line on the piston, where it's dirty on one side and clean toward the caliper. You might have to push the rubber boot back to see it. FYI- If you go too far the piston can pop out, if so, give it a good cleaning and just push it back in. Do NOT use any abrasives; a tooth brush, rag, and brake clean should do the job. Whatever you do don't scratch or gouge the piston or else it can leak. Repeat for any other stuck pistons.

          As for fluid, I'd recommend a good DOT 4 *high temp* racing fluid. As big as these bikes are it's surprisingly easy to overheat the brakes going down a big hill or during some spirited riding. I've had it happen and it can be a real pucker moment. I've since switched to a high temp racing fluid and it hasn't happened no matter how hard I am on the brakes.

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          • #7
            If you are doing both front and rear I suggest doing one at a time and test. You dont want to have spongy brakes on both front and rear same time if it didn't bleed right. I have EBC organic than the HH noted above. More dust and doesnt eat the rotors. I just replaced my rear rotor last winter and have not found a difference in the way I ride vs HH pads previously installed. I have bled the brakes a few times on my bike with success. Always keep pressure on pedal/lever when cracking bleed screw. Front one I crack all banjo fittings at each joint to get moat of the air out and makes for an quick bleed. Always finish with MC cover off and pedal or lever tied to bar or strapped to floor board and left overnight to allow more air bubbles to leave the system. Never had any issues doing it this way.

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