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  • Pulley nut

    What's the trick to getting the spacer behind the front pulley off?

  • #2
    It should just slide off the out put shaft.

    Comment


    • NCB
      NCB commented
      Editing a comment
      Okay I got the spacer off it was just suction down there by the oil I guess question now is how do you get the oil seal out

  • #3
    https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a...dle-drive-gear

    Comment


    • Pauli466
      Pauli466 commented
      Editing a comment
      You can use a seal puller or a pry bar, put a rag under the pry bar where your levering ( the fulcrum,) and go easy so you won't gouge the seal bore a large flat blade screw driver works in a pinch

  • #4
    The oil seal is actually an o-ring. Part #23 in that diagram. It acts more like a gasket in this case.
    Manuals, Roadwing, other stuff
    PGR
    PGT MT

    Comment


    • #5
      All back together, we'll see how things are after a good ride. Thanks Duke

      Comment


      • #6
        I’m assuming this is 2.0 of the ‘Neutral Switch’ thread you had going a week ago.

        So, was it oil leaking from the pulley shaft? You never got back about that.

        Just curious.

        Comment


        • NCB
          NCB commented
          Editing a comment
          Gear oil! You straightened that out with the pic. of the "tunnel" in the oil tank. The new o-ring did not fit has tight has the one I removed. I double checked the part number?

      • #7
        This is why I was hoping it was gear oil and not motor oil from the neutral switch!

        As promised...here are the instructions do the neutral safety switch. This method allows you to do it without removing the transfer case completely.

        Remove side covers

        Loosen rear wheel... Axle... Adjusters equal turns out.. Rear brake stay.

        Move exhaust out of the way if necessary.

        Remove front pulley cover.

        Take belt off pulley... Move out of the way.

        Remove pulley.

        Remove 4 pulley back housing bolts.

        Put nut back on pulley shaft.

        Go to right side...

        Remove oil tank top. 1 m5 hex bolt.

        Remove oil tank hose.

        Remove 2 oil lines. Lines may have a little oil inside.

        Remove transfer case cover. If overfull.. Excess oil will come out.

        Remove front transfer gear nut and lock washer. It's the same 36mm as the front pulley nut. I forgot to add pic.

        Remove 4 m8 transfer case to engine bolts and m8 chrome nut.

        Remove metal switch top screw with cover.

        Pull transfer case away from motor. Should pull out 1-1.5". Enough to get a 1/4" ratchet wrench with t30 bit in between. Put t30 bit into 1/4" wrench and use a small zip tie in front to keep the bit from pushing thru. See pic.

        Unscrew neutral switch wire and move out of the way.

        Very carefully... Unscrew the lower neutral switch screw. Remove old neutral switch.

        Reverse process.

        Original torque spec for neutral switch is 5.1. In the 1700 addendum and warrior repair manual it says 2.9. When I went to snug the ironing neutral switch screw using 5.1 ftlbs (61 inch lbs) it was too much and cracked the switch screw ear. So I did the 2.9 ftlbs (35 inch lbs).

        **** Important**** you can't fit a torque wrench to tighten the lower neutral switch screw. I suggest practicing the feel of the 2.9 torque on another screw that takes more just to get the feel of it. Then tighten the lower screw by feel.

        Parts list. I recommend replacing O-rings on all parts removed.

        93210-15171-00 oil tube o-ring lower. 2 needed.

        93210-16629-00 oil tube o-ring upper. 2 needed.

        93210-23326-00 oil tank top o-ring. 1 needed.

        93210-29196-00 neutral switch o-ring. 1 needed.

        93210-29196-00 neutral switch o-ring. 1 needed.

        93210-92448-00 transfer case cover o-ring. 1 needed.

        1AE-82540-00-00 Neutral switch. 1 needed.

        90215-26241-00 lock washer. 2 needed. (1 for front pulley nut and one for front gear nut)

        Torque specs:

        pulley back housing 22ft lbs

        pulley cover 7.2 ftlbs

        transfer case bolts and nut (m8) 22 ftlbs

        transfer case cover (m6) 7.2 ftlbs

        frame brackets (m8) 22 ftlbs (m10) 28 ftlbs

        oil lines 7.2 ftlbs

        pulley and gear nut 61 ftlbs

        rear axle 80 ftlbs

        brake stay bracket 35 ftlbs

        neutral switch 2.9 ftlbs or 35 INCH LBS

        Comment


        • #8
          Originally posted by Tykes_Place View Post
          The oil seal is actually an o-ring. Part #23 in that diagram. It acts more like a gasket in this case.
          Looks like the oring 23 stops oil from getting under the tapered spacer and the oil seal 22 keeps oil from getting over the spacer, if the leak doesn't stop after changing the oring the oil seal is probably bad, there's two oil seals at that location

          Comment

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