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Accessory front master cylinder needed

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  • Accessory front master cylinder needed

    Gents,
    Although I am not present here as often as I should , I would like to ask you for help anyway...
    I am looking for an accessory / more efficient front master cylinder for my 2006 Road Star
    Do any of you have such already installed or have any ideas/information about it?

    I am looking for it because due to the brake lines replacement from original to steel one, I have decided to change also the brake lines routing (I have connected two lines directly to the master cylinder w/o tee). Of course I have done all bleeding job at the end. Unfortunately, I am still not satisfy with the front brakes performance.
    Not sure what happened, but it is looks like the different brake lines routing causes different braking fluid quantity with "spongy" effect on the lever.

    Of course, I am also considering replacing the brake calipers if I will not find the more efficient master cylinder.

    Thanks in advance!

  • #2
    I don't understand why you would want to bypass the T and have two lines to the MC. Two lines to the T and one to the MC is very efficient. Anyway if all the lines are full of fluid with no air then there shouldn't be a spongy feel. Quantity wouldn't have anything to do with it. However much fluid there is as long as there is no air the fluid is non compressible.
    Scott B.

    Comment


    • #3
      Stainless steel lines, new fluid, no air in the lines, new pads and lubricated calipers. Shouldn't be having an issue.

      Comment


      • #4
        Stock brake system with EBC HH pads and Prestone synthetic DOT 4 fluid makes for a great brake feel. You screwed something up with your modifications. Make sure pads aren't glazed make sure brake lever handle is adjusted to where it hits the plunger in the MC properly. Make sure calipers are free and move correctly. Make sure the MC isnt plugged.
        LET'S RIDE

        Comment


        • #5
          Guys,
          Thanks for your valuable comments, however… I need to clarify several things.

          1. Looks like I misused “spongy” lever description. This is not the case, when you have soft lever at the beginning and after several moves you will get a “hard” lever. I have soft lever all the time, no matter how many moves I will make. Now, I am able to squeeze the lever so much till it gets to the grip. Never had this before.
          2. Why? As always when someone is doing some modifications - I like this look, and which is more important this solution is more robust (less joints, Banjos, points to be bleed, etc.)
          3. Except lines and routing I did not change anything else. I used: vacuum to bleed (I am sure for 100% that lines are bubbles free), same pads and calipers, same master cylinder, same (fresh) fluid. Like I said - have no idea what went wrong...

          In spite of all of this which I have described, and coming back to my original question- if any of you had a chance to used, seen, heard something about accessory MC?

          Comment


          • #6
            Why do you keep saying accessory front master cylinder.

            Why do you use that phrase?

            Comment


            • Flashback
              Flashback commented
              Editing a comment
              Just guessing here, but he is probably using some type of translation software.....

          • #7
            Well your stock master cylinder has an orifice that is sized to be used properly with two calipers and two lines. When I went to a single caliper/rotor setup inhad to get a Vstar 950 master cylinder with a different size orifice that is designed to be used with a single caliper setup. Maybe with you changing lines and eliminating the T you need a different size orifice? Are the brake lines your using the exact same size internal diameter? Maybe they are a little bigger and is affecting the pressure.
            LET'S RIDE

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            • #8
              I think you’re onto something Lug Nut. If you work back from the callipers, both setups should be the same until reaching the T (or where the T used to be), assuming the inner diameters of the new and old lines are equal. From there I suspect the inner diameter of the original line from the T to the MC is less than 2times the inner diameter of the individual new lines going directly to the MC.

              In theory, an ounce of brake fluid in the MC end equals an ounce of brake fluid out at the other end(s). However, We’re not really interested in that when we squeeze the brake lever. We’re only interested in moving brake pads in 1 direction. To get a brake pad to move an inch requires more brake fluid in a big brake line than it does as small one, or in this case more brake fluid in 2 brake lines than 1 brake line. Because the actual amount of brake fluid being added to the system when applying the brakes is so small, it’s all happening immediately downstream from the MC, in the section of the lines that was formerly one line between the T and the MC.

              Again, this is my theory. I’m no school teacher, just some self isolating with too much time on my hands.
              Better to have questions you can’t answer than answers you can’t question

              Comment


              • #9
                I believe you still have air in the lines. the mod you made could make the bleeding process more difficult...
                not all those who wander are lost......

                Comment


                • #10
                  I agree with Flashback, you still have air in the front brake system. I can tell you from personal experience it can be very challenging to get all of the air out. A couple of years back I did a master cylinder rebuild and had hell getting a good firm brake lever afterwards. I ended up taking the master cylinder off of the handlebar, remove the brake hose from it and holding it with the brake hose connection facing up pumped a good sized bubble of air out when I squeezed the lever. I carefully let the lever back out and poured a tiny bit of brake fluid directly into the hose connection on the master cylinder so it was full. I then put the hose back on while holding the master cylinder with the connection up wrapped in a rag to catch the excess brake fluid that came out when I inserted the banjo bolt. Sounds crazy but it worked and I have had a very firm brake lever ever since.

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    I also agree with air in the line. There is nothing that he did that would change the volume of fluid needed to push the caliper pistons. Spongy = air.
                    When we first bought the Eagles bike it had a double line setup like he has installed and there was no problems with using the OEM master cylinder. I swapped it back to the oem setup to get rid of the clutter of 2 lines and double banjo on the master cylinder. I thought it looked gaudy and there was no purpose for it.

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      I have a brand new Yamaha front brake.master cylinder with chrome lever with brake light switch.
                      Let me know if you would like to buy it .
                      Never used.

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        Thank you guys.
                        I will follow your advice and check the bleeding once more.

                        2time - your theory makes sense!
                        Lucky - thanks for your offer, but I think mine works well...maybe I need to check piston and sealings, but beside that everything looks good.

                        Comment

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