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  • Clutch replacement (uh-oh)

    So my R* has been slipping in higher gears for a while. My clutch kit came in today and it’s my daily driver so decided to start since I’m off for the weekend already.


    Got the clutch back together put the pressure plate and clutch spring back on and bolted down. Seen the service Manual calls for 5.8 ft lbs if torque and doesn’t specify to replace the bolts. Set my torque and the bolt broke off in the clutch housing.

    Question is are these bolts actually supposed to be replaced, when it says 5.8 foot pounds does that mean the clutch spring is collapsed all the way against the clutch housing? Finally can I replace the bolt with a typical grade 8 bolt or do I need to get the actual bolts?

  • #2
    Too bad you didnt ask before cause most of us changed out the clutch spring to the Barnett plate conversion only that come with new bolts. The friction discs are usually still within spec. I had 94000kms and still good discs. You should watch out for torque settings that low. I used a 1/4” drive torque wrench in inch pounds settings. I have read torque wrench settings can differ 20% at the low and high range settings. Hopefully you did not damage the aluminum basket and only the bolt.

    Comment


    • #3
      Well I knew about the Barnett but I found the entire kit for 100 dollars. I figured I’ll go ahead and replace and when the time comes that my pockets aren’t empty I’ll get the Barnett. i don’t think the housing is damaged. I am going to buy a 1/4 inch torque tomorrow and found grade 12.9 bolts that is the same exact length so going to attempt to extract the bolt tomorrow. When torqued down to spec does the clutch spring sit flat against the pressure plate?

      Comment


      • Lucky
        Lucky commented
        Editing a comment
        That stock spring is lousy. Get the Barnett clutch spring and pressure plate. Amazing difference. Also those bolts should be tightened down in a cross pattern a little at a time.
        Do not tighten down one bolt to its max .

    • #4
      I dont know that I would get grade 12.9 bolts for something that calls for 5-7 foot-pounds of torque. Need a weak link in that system actually. If you over torqued and had megasuperbadass bolts your basket would be the weak link. Get stock replacement bolts and torque with 1/4 in torque wrench (70 in/lbs).

      Comment


      • #5
        Will stop in dealer tomorrow to order. Thank you that didn’t cross my mind.

        Comment


        • Lucky
          Lucky commented
          Editing a comment
          If a bolt has oil on it, the torque will be 10% higher than what you want.
          Deduct 10%. Only use a inch pound wrench.

      • #6
        Did you new spring kit come with a new gasket ring called the housing spring #26 in the parts fiche? The Yamaha service manual does not show this to be replaced but the Clymer does. I do believe people that have only changed out the spring and not this housing have seen slipping not too long after the install. The housing spring sits in the pressure plate and diaphragm spring is on housing spring. Take a look at Partzilla it clearly shows how it goes together.

        Comment


        • J89k
          J89k commented
          Editing a comment
          Do you still need this spring if doing barnett conversion?

        • Jclevesque
          Jclevesque commented
          Editing a comment
          No you do not

      • #7
        No it did not come with this part. Came with the wire(that goes all the way around basket) gasket all friction plates including the one behind the wire and all clutch plates.

        Comment


        • #8
          Anyone happen to have clymer pdf?

          Comment


          • #9
            I don't have the PDF but if you look on Ebay you can find factory manuals for less than a Clymers. I just bout a brand new factory manual with the 1700 supplement for less than $25 shipped. It is a 500 page manual

            Comment


            • #10
              Here is a service manual pdf for the 1600. http://www.werder.ee/Manual/XV1600.pdf

              for anyone reading this post in the future the clutch spring does “bottom out” all the way up against the pressure plate. To the torque specs of 5.8 ft lbs are for once the spring is fully compressed.

              Comment


              • #11
                TimB So, everything is finished. Got my new Barnett cable +12 thanks. I had a motion pro prior and have arthritis in my hands. After being on bike all day my hand would be numb, with this new cable it feels like a new bike with a hydraulic clutch, I’d say at minimum a 4 pound difference in required squeeze pressure. Absolutely amazing, if you are reading this and don’t have a clutch cable from Barnett, order it now I paid to have it rushed and received in two days. For this reason I am ordering the clutch plate conversion,

                Comment


                • #12
                  Just my two cents on torque wrenches...I have at work a Snap-on torque wrench checker. What I can tell you is that most people over torque bolts because of the way they use the torque wrench. My advice is use 10 to 15% less torque than asked for unless you have a digital one. The digital torque wrenches are really accurate and reduce user error by a wide margin proven on the Snap-on device. YMMV.

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