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Engine Oil Change Part 2

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  • Engine Oil Change Part 2

    While reading the factory service manual for changing the engine oil i came across this.

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    Does anyone do this, loosen the bolts on the side of the engine, run the engine to see if oil starts to seep out and then tighten the bolts? I’ve never heard anyone talk about this but it is in the FSM to perform after the oil change. Is that to bleed the oil lines or just verify oil is flowing?
    2012 Road Star Silverado S

  • #2
    Great find. This is a good way to tell if the engine has enough oil as the dip stick is not very accurate, or if the oil pump is working or not.

    Comment


    • #3
      This was under "how to change the oil"? Or this was under troubleshooting the oil pump/passages?

      Comment


      • D-Fresh
        D-Fresh commented
        Editing a comment
        NCB, please see below.

    • #4
      Click image for larger version

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ID:	71338 Maybe I’m mis-interpretating the section(wouldn’t be the first time) so I attached the pages I’m referring to.

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      The pages loaded out of order so just refer to the page numbers. It is under the changing the oil section but please read and see what you get out of it?
      2012 Road Star Silverado S

      Comment


      • #5
        This is the first I've ever heard of this. I've often wondered what those screws were for. If you look at #11 in parenthesis, it says (when engine is disassembled.) So if you want to make sure all the oil passages are filling for the fist time when dry. But I don't believe this is necessary when doing a standard oil change. Even after draining both the crank case and oil tank, you still have oil left in the motor.

        Comment


        • D-Fresh
          D-Fresh commented
          Editing a comment
          So are you saying I should stop reading the manual? ;-p

        • Doc_V
          Doc_V commented
          Editing a comment
          LOL No... it just can be a little tricky to decipher some times. We've all been there. Though there are a couple mistakes in the server manual.

        • D-Fresh
          D-Fresh commented
          Editing a comment
          I was wondering about that phrase as well, just thought I’d run it by the forum since this is my first change. Thanks!

      • #6
        My manual shows something different...says to check the oil gallery bolts on the top of the oil tube on the left hand side of the engine. My manual is an XV 1600 and I have the supplement for the 1700. Must of been a revision. I have never done that.

        Comment


        • #7
          Sounds like a procedure you’d use with an engine after the cases were split and all new oil. Not needed for a simple oil change. “Don’t think too much, you’ll hurt the team.”

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          • #8
            Way over thinking this Open both drain bolts and let flow... Remove oil filter... Put bike upright as much as safely can (boards uder kickstand... Let drain for 30 min at least... Dig out old crush washers from drain plugs and install new crush washers.... Reinstall drain bolts and oil filter.... Add 2 quarts of oul via dip stick tube and replace discuss stick....start engine and let idle for 20-30 seconds...shut off motor and pull dipstick...add 2 qts oil and reinstall dipstick. Done for next 4k-5k miles if using full synthetic motorcycle vtwin oil.
            LET'S RIDE

            Comment


            • Questcap
              Questcap commented
              Editing a comment
              O, that's way over-thinking this! LOL Drain for 30 min at least? You must mean if cold, right? If hot, it need not be any more than 3 mins, 'til it slow drips. Replace the crush washers? Never done it yet. But, I do wrap the thread with some Teflon plumber's tape, and never had one to leak. Who's doing it even simpler???

            • Jclevesque
              Jclevesque commented
              Editing a comment
              Quest white is not oil resistant. Yellow teflon is oil and gas resistant. JC

          • #9
            I even forego the tape.

            Comment


            • Doc_V
              Doc_V commented
              Editing a comment
              +1 here. Once the oil is down to less than 1 drop a second, filter and plug goes in. You'll never get it all out and the fresh filter will pick up any leftover crud. I do recommend getting a 14mm head drain plug with a magnet. Much easier to remove and if you don't find any metal on the magnet, all is well. I reuse crush rings too, as long as it's not sweating any oil around the plug, it's still good. I've yet t replace one on either of my R*s over the past 8 years.

          • #10
            If I remember correctly... the thing actually holds 5, but we can only ever get 4 out per change. I'd have to go back to the manual, but a fresh fill after splitting the cases, I think is 5 qts. Someone will find that page........

            Comment


            • #11
              I have seen in the manual to fill crankcase via plug below rear cylinder. 5 with engine disassembled is the number noted 2 in the tank and 3 in the crankcase. Higher up in the first pic shows oil change with filter 4.1 liters.

              Comment


              • Doc_V
                Doc_V commented
                Editing a comment
                This is because, when you add oil to the tank under the seat like normal, it doesn't get to the crank case until you start the motor. If you're doing a first start after rebuild, you want some oil in the case before you turn the key.

            • #12
              Would never use Teflon tape on the oul drain plugs....completely unnecessary with a crush washer AND just something that could get in the oil system
              LET'S RIDE

              Comment


              • Horsehammerr
                Horsehammerr commented
                Editing a comment
                I've never even seen crush washers on mine. 105,000 miles and never a leak of any kind.

            • #13
              JC, didn't even know there was an oil and gas resistant tape... I'll look for some. Maybe some new crush washers, too... You'd think that maybe after some 18 years or so, it might be nice start crushing some new ones!

              Alright, now... I want to know, is there a maintenance geek here who actually replaces the washers with every oil change? C'mon now, 'fess up, whoever you are!

              Comment


              • D-Fresh
                D-Fresh commented
                Editing a comment
                As Shores is finding out, I'm kind of a "by the book" guy (within reason) and will probably change the washers every time, they don't cost that much. I'm really surprised at how many people don't or don't even run washers?

            • #14
              Originally posted by Questcap View Post

              Alright, now... I want to know, is there a maintenance geek here who actually replaces the washers with every oil change? C'mon now, 'fess up, whoever you are!
              I always keep two new ones on hand. I reuse the same ones until I feel through my hand and wrench that they are no longer crushing. I usually use them three or four times.

              Comment


              • #15
                In 8 years I still haven't replaced one on either my R*s. When the plug starts to sweat oil it's time to replace; so far no leaks.

                Comment


                • #16
                  I flip them over once and then replace them. So, I get 2 oil changes out of each one. There pretty cheap if you buy a bag of them!

                  Comment


                  • #17
                    NCB, I'd like to buy a bag of them... what size, and what's a good source. I have at least 3 friends on R*'s, and soon, possibly a fourth. I buy stuff in bulk, and do their maintenance, as I have the time and the place for that... If ever I detected a need, I'd like to have them on hand.

                    I really DO need at least one of the small ones for the transfer case inspection plug bolt. Last one I pulled had been way overtightened, and the washer crushed thin!

                    Comment


                    • #18
                      My pipes cover the inspection bolt on the transfer case. I drain the fluid and just measure the amount I put in.


                      Link to washer:
                      https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

                      Comment


                      • Questcap
                        Questcap commented
                        Editing a comment
                        That amount is 13.45 oz.!

                      • Doc_V
                        Doc_V commented
                        Editing a comment
                        For as infrequently as you change the xfer case oil, I'd just remove the rear exhaust. Remove the tiny little cap, level the bike, and fill until the gear oil seeps out the hole.

                      • Questcap
                        Questcap commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Thanks for the link... 20 for $10.

                    • #19
                      Doc, you enjoy working on these bikes way more than I do. I would rather ride! But thanks for the advice.

                      Comment

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