Front Suspension Upgrade Suggestions

[D-Fresh]

Hi,

After riding my ‘12 R* I’ve noticed neither the front or rear suspension is the best. I thought i’d Tackle the front first since its the cheaper of the two. What are everyone’s recommendations for front spring replacement - type/make and spring rate and fork oil - type and weight? Is there anything else to do to the front suspension to make it better?

Thanks,

Doug

[Shores]

Racetech based on your weight with emulators and 10w oil is what a lot of folks do. Some even modify the emulators.

[scottw]

I rec std height progressive fork springs which you can install in approx 1hr not including a fork oil change at the same
thats a totally different story.

If your going to do a fork oil change at same time which is significantly more involved on a R* i'd rec 10wt oil vs stock 5w oil.

Below you find a link to the progressive fork springs along with a 2nd link below that to a youtube video
of a guy installing the std height prog fork springs inc a post install test ride and comment on improvement felt on the test ride
with the new std height progressive fork springs.

It shows how quick & easy installing new fork springs is when your not doing a fork oil change @ the same time,the hardest thing was breaking the fork caps loose and then working against the spring tension when trying to start threading the fork caps after the new springs were installed.

Good Luck.

scott

================================================== =============================================

* https://www.progressivesuspension.co...ork-spring-kit


PRODUCTS : 2012 YAMAHA XV1700 Road Star (not Warrior)
Change Your Ride
Start Over FORK SPRING KIT


The 'Original' Progressive Rate Fork Springs soak up the small road bumps, yet are firm enough to absorb the molar-rattling ones. Spring rates have been chosen to reduce front end "dive" during braking, yet still provide excellent ride comfort. Better yet, we warranty our fork springs for life! Progressive Rate Fork Springs have several advantages over straight rate springs. A Progressive Rate Spring has the advantage of a rising rate resistance to compression. The benefit of this is that the spring can be soft enough at the start of the travel to offer a "plush" ride, yet be firm enough at the end of the travel to soak up the big bumps. Some applications are offered in Heavy Duty and Standard Versions.
MSRP: $97.00
11-1144
FS KIT

================================================== =============================================

* YOUTUBE VIDEO ON PROGRESSIVE FORK SPRING INSTALL IN R* INCLUDING POST INSTALL TEST RIDE
AND COMMENTS ON THE IMPROVEMENT FROM BIKE OWNER.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msrKdQ5pTRs

[Doc_V]

If you're just doing springs and 10w fork oil [stock is 5w] Progressive springs are good. But if you want the best possibly handing, RaceTech springs and Gold Emulators are the way to go. BTW, RaceTech recommends 15w fork oil if you go with the Emulators.

[D-Fresh]

Thanks all for the recommendations!

Cheers

[scottw]

Just an fyi,the 15w oil vs stock 5w oil along with new springs may be a bit too firm for some guys,maybe better for sport like handling but could be a bit too harsh in some cases.

Since fork oil is such a time consuming PIA to do on a R* its much better off to end up a tad light on fork oil choice vs too harsh that woiuld be much more of a negative results.

You would definately improve the R* forks going with 2x heavier 10w fork oil vs lighter stock 5w oil along with brand new std height progressive fork springs even if setup is a bit light on dampening with 2x heavier 10w oil could be easily tolerated not requiring another fork oil change anytime soon because the forks are much improved as is.

But when fork oil choice may be a bit heavy like being 3x heavier then stock 15w like in this case thats something that annoys as you hit/ride over every little crack or bump in the road every mile & minute your riding it making for a negative experience every ride not to mention having to deal with yet another time consuming messy fork oil change from heavier 15w fork oil to the middle of the road 10w fork oil and or maybe having to pay someone a 2nd time to do it too.

I have been there done that mult times on mult bikes over the yrs wrenching my own bikes and other peoples bikes i service and found 1st hand it's always better to be on the lighter side of the fork oil choice then heavier side because i found over 50% of the time the rider said forks were too harsh when going 3x heavier then stock(5w vs 15w) on fork oil vs 10w thats a good middle of the road place to start being 2x heavier then stock yami fork oil rec with stock fork setup.

Hope this helps you out with making your decision.

Scott

[Father Pobasturd]

It's easy to strip the fork caps trying to tighten them under pressure. Another member here recommended you index the caps to help prevent cross-threading.

[Doc_V]

Scott... If you're doing Progressive springs only, then yes... 10w is plenty... [see my post above] But if you're going with RaceTech springs *and* Gold Emulators they recommend 15w.

From the RaceTech Emulator Tuning Guide:

• OIL VISCOSITY - 15wt Fork Oil is typical. Oil Viscosity (weight) is used to set Rebound Damping. Once the proper Rebound Damping is achieved the Emulator can be adjusted for Compression Damping.

This is because the Emulators require you to drill out the stock damping rods, making the holes larger, allowing the oil to flow more freely.

[Messer2.0]

Go with the racetechs you won't regret it.

[D-Fresh]

So changing the fork oil means taking the forks out of the triple tree - Wow, PiTA! I know i did springs and oil on my bike over 30 years ago and to drain the fork oil all you had to do is take a screw out at the bottom of the fork leg and pump the forks. Obviously this is a different set up.

I appreciate all the advice.

Regards,

Doug

[SKWEARpeg]

Don’t try that with these. The bottom bolt holds the damper rod in place. The only time you want to remove it, is when doing a thorough clean and rebuild of the forks. Remove the bolt, and there’s a really good chance you won’t get it back in.

[D-Fresh]

Oh SKWEARpeg,

That brings up another issue i wanted to ask. Since i'll be taking everything a part when i do the swap out, is there anything else that should be replaced since i'm in there? O-rings or seals, etc.?

[Horsehammerr]

Oh SKWEARpeg,

That brings up another issue i wanted to ask. Since i'll be taking everything a part when i do the swap out, is there anything else that should be replaced since i'm in there? O-rings or seals, etc.?

When I did my front end with the complete RaceTech build , I chose to replace all slider parts. Don't know if they needed it but , with all that done and the Roadwing shock set at about 35% I have to excersize CAUTION in corners and curves. It handles SCAREY GOOD !!!

[Shores]

..........i did springs and oil on my bike over 30 years ago and to drain the fork oil all you had to do is take a screw out at the bottom of the fork leg and pump the forks. Obviously this is a different set up. Doug

On the Roadstar, the bolt at the bottom of the tubes just holds the dampening tube in. Only removing it doesn’t get all the crud out of the tubes and when you try to put it back in you risk having the dampener just spin and the bolt won’t tighten. You must remove the tubes from the trees and turn them upside down.....or do this!

[roadiemort]

Ha Ha

[D-Fresh]

That may be easier!!!

[scottw]

Scott... If you're doing Progressive springs only, then yes... 10w is plenty... [see my post above] But if you're going with RaceTech springs *and* Gold Emulators they recommend 15w.

From the RaceTech Emulator Tuning Guide:



This is because the Emulators require you to drill out the stock damping rods, making the holes larger, allowing the oil to flow more freely.

Yup,was aware 15w is rec with racetech,i just didnt want someone to mis that point because we all have seen many things missed or misunderstood at times when people read posts here and because its such a time consuming pia to change fork oil in the R* i wanted to ensure people under stood what was going on & the consequence.

BTW,it only took me approx 1hr start to finish to change the fork oil in my 09 electraglide ultra classic because it has for oil drains in the fork tubes,why yami didnt do that is just nuts ,guess it could be forced maint work for yami dealers.

Happy motoring.

Scott

[Smokescreens]

i would get race techs. i had standard and lowering progressives and racetech. i will only ride on race tech fork springs from now on if i change them out.

[Roadhorsen]

I'm guessing you ride with a higher than avg total bike weight? Seems the heavier loaded riders prefer RT linear springs over progressives

[Smokescreens]

Progressives actually start off softer than stock. Race tech offers multiple spring rates you you can get spring rates for "you" vs. A progressive rate spring making a "one size fits most"

Progressives are better than stock for sure but race tech is better than that.

[BigPainRing]

Not trying to buck the trend but I went a slightly different route to all of the above. I installed Sonic 1.0 straight wound springs and fresh 12 wt oil. I had to pull the fork caps a couple of times to add preload shims to get it right where I wanted it. Now the forks work very well compared to stock. I have always preferred straight wound springs.

[roadiemort]

http://sonicsprings.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=27_312

[Deerkiller]

It’s not that bad to pull the forks if you don’t have a fairing with a stereo and all that. If you have a bike lift it shouldn’t take more than 1/2 hour or so to remove everything.

I did both progressives and Race Tech. 2 different Roadstars that I owned over the years. Both set up almost the same. On the Race Tech bike I did the emulators, drilled the damper rod, and 15w oil as recommended from Race Tech.

If if I had it to do over again, I would go the Race Tech with emulators and all that again. Along with the Roadwing rear setup. Makes a terrible handling bike into a pretty good handling bike (minus the normal issues that I complain about all the time, lol).

[D-Fresh]

Yup,was aware 15w is rec with racetech,i just didnt want someone to mis that point because we all have seen many things missed or misunderstood at times when people read posts here and because its such a time consuming pia to change fork oil in the R* i wanted to ensure people under stood what was going on & the consequence.

BTW,it only took me approx 1hr start to finish to change the fork oil in my 09 electraglide ultra classic because it has for oil drains in the fork tubes,why yami didnt do that is just nuts ,guess it could be forced maint work for yami dealers.

Happy motoring.

Scott

I'm glad this point was brought up. I'm just learning about the different options and it is more clear now that we know the racetech solution drills out the holes when progressive does not.

And i agree, why isn't there a oil drain in the fork as opposed to taking the whole thing apart or as Shores pointed out, turn it upside down... LOL

[D-Fresh]

Not trying to buck the trend but I went a slightly different route to all of the above. I installed Sonic 1.0 straight wound springs and fresh 12 wt oil. I had to pull the fork caps a couple of times to add preload shims to get it right where I wanted it. Now the forks work very well compared to stock. I have always preferred straight wound springs.

Its great having different options, thanks.