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  • Bill3538
    started a topic Slipping clutch

    Slipping clutch

    Newbie here from Ohio. I have a 2007 Road Star 1700. I changed my oil and put in the wrong oil (Castrol 20W-50). After some research I found out my mistake (I had no idea what a wet clutch was). I got the correct oil (Yamalube 20W-50) and changed it and the filter again but it it is still slipping. Will this oil eventually wear off and fix itself or is there something I need to do now to fix it. Thanks for any help.

  • Bill3538
    commented on 's reply
    Thank you. I've never changed a clutch before. I looked on Youtube. Is it just a matter of removing the side cover, taking off the plate, and removing and replacing the clutches? Since I've never done this before, is this something I can do myself or should I seek a professional? Any minor details i should know? Thanks

  • Tykes_Place
    replied
    Originally posted by Bill3538 View Post
    Thanks for all the help guys, but it looks like I've learned an expensive lesson. I ran the Seafoam and then changed the oil again (Mobil1 V-twin)) and the clutch is still slipping. It looks like I'll be installing a new clutch. Thanks
    I have a use plate stack if you want it. I can also give you my old EBC spring. It was starting to slip for me, but I think you can combine it with stock spring. If so then it would be pretty tight.

    Leave a comment:


  • BigPainRing
    replied
    Chances are you don't need a new clutch. Just do the EBC (cheaper but may not last forever) or Barnett (more expensive but should last a long time) spring conversion.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bill3538
    replied
    Thanks for all the help guys, but it looks like I've learned an expensive lesson. I ran the Seafoam and then changed the oil again (Mobil1 V-twin)) and the clutch is still slipping. It looks like I'll be installing a new clutch. Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Duke
    commented on 's reply
    Yes, that's right. I'm loosing it!
    VR-1 race oil.

  • HotRod
    replied
    Originally posted by TimB View Post
    Run some Seafoam in the oil, then change the oil again.
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    THIS right here is what you need to do!!!!

    Rod

    Leave a comment:


  • scottw
    replied
    FYI,it’s not ZR1 vavoline 50,i think it’s VR1 50 race oil your ref to.

    Leave a comment:


  • scottw
    replied
    The regular pass car Castro’s 20-50 has friction modifiers that in some cases where clutch spring is worn/weak all that’s needed is to expose the wet clutch in the R* to friction mods and clutch will slip.

    That at said I wold add 6oz sea foam to the fresh oil you just installed and run for a few hundred miles.

    Then dump that oil and just drain the new oil filter and reistall for reuse and install 4qts std Dino motorcycle specificoil like for ex valvolones 20-50 for air cooled v twins.

    Also ensure clutch is adjusted with proper free play too.

    Now go for a ride to see if clutc still slips,if not great,if yes at a minimum you need a new clutch spring,worst case you need new clutch plates,steel spacers,release bearing,cover gasket,etc.

    Scott

    Leave a comment:


  • Duke
    replied
    From the Four Corners area.

    I have ran Castrol 20w50 motor oil before, and have had no issues with that oil. I find it hard to beleave that oil has started the clutch slipping, unless they have changed the blend additives in their oil.
    I've been running the Lucas 20w50 synthetic motorcycle oil now for over 4 years with the engine being quieter. I do blend Valvoline ZR-1 50w with it though.
    A few years back I checked with Lucas on the Zinc additive ppm, and I think it was 1600 ppm, if my memory serves me correctly.

    Leave a comment:


  • Txulrich
    commented on 's reply
    I haven't had that opportunity as yet. We're spota get close next week though.

  • Brad_G
    replied
    from Solon, IA.

    Keep us updated on your progress.

    Leave a comment:


  • texasscott1
    commented on 's reply
    +1 on that. 20W50 isn't recommended below 50 degrees. 10W40 is good, according to Yamaha, for temps over 100. Personally I run it year around down here in Texas. If it gets above 105 I just don't ride.

  • Bill3538
    replied
    Thanks for all the advice. Looking forward to being a part of this forum!!

    Leave a comment:


  • roadiemort
    commented on 's reply
    Exceeds! Can you be more specific as in actual ppm's or that was all you got from them?

  • TwinCreeks1600
    replied
    Oh no, someone brought up the dreaded oil question again. LOL.
    From Clemmons, North Carolina, near Winston-Salem, NC. I use Lucas 20w50 Conventional Motorcycle Oil. I talked with the head engineer in charge of their motorcycle oils and I told him what bike I had, the engine and its configuration, the transmission, the cam and lifter setup, and of course, about the wet clutches in our bikes. And I told him about the ZDDP requirement. He pulled up the data sheets on this oil and the synthetic version. Both of these oils exceed the requirements of all of our Road Stars. I have been running it for quite awhile now. My engine is very, very quiet and the transmission shifts like butter now. And it runs a lot cooler now, and I have rode in 95 degree plus days in the middle of the day when the temperature was at its peak and it is considerable cooler than with the yamalube which is what the previous owner was using. I used this on my first oil change until I decided what I was going to use. I buy this oil from O'reillys, comes in a 6 quart case at $7.49 a quart, and most of the time it is on sale for $6.49 a quart. But this is my choice. I am not trying to influence your decision. There are a lot of good oils out there. Most of the men here use the mobil or amsoil. But any of these are good and will do excellent job at protecting your machine. I don't run my oil over 3000 miles at the most. Usually around 2500 is good for me, I personally think that is long enough for an air cooled v-twin with a transmission involved. Keeping fresh oil is cheap to me considering the results of over running the oil. But that is up to you and your riding habits. It gets hot here where I live, but it doesn't get as hot here as it does in as say Texas or Florida. But use a good quality oil and filter and you will be find. The guys on here say that seafoam is find to put in the oil. I would say that marvel mystery or transmission fluid in the correct ratio would probably help clean the clutch of the automotive type oil that you used, providing that you run it say 50 or so miles then change it to the correct oil. But good luck with what you decide. These engines/transmissions are great units. But like every machine, they have their quirks. They will run a long time and give great service with the proper maintenance. Form good habits and stick to them. You will pretty much have a trouble free machine.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    replied
    Yamalube is fine but tends to be a bit more pricey and harder to come by.

    Leave a comment:


  • TimB
    replied
    Run some Seafoam in the oil, then change the oil again.

    Leave a comment:


  • Txulrich
    replied
    Ohio is far enough north that you don't need the 20w50, but using it won't hurt it. I'm in Texas and wouldn't use anything but. Even in the winter. I get my Mobil 1 typically from an auto parts store. They usually have better prices than a dealer.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bill3538
    replied
    Thanks guys. The bike has 21K on it. It didn't slip at all before I put in the wrong oil. Yamaha recommends the Yamalube 20W40 or 20W50. Is this ok or should I use the Mobil1 V-Twin 20W 50?

    Leave a comment:

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