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  • Slipping clutch

    Newbie here from Ohio. I have a 2007 Road Star 1700. I changed my oil and put in the wrong oil (Castrol 20W-50). After some research I found out my mistake (I had no idea what a wet clutch was). I got the correct oil (Yamalube 20W-50) and changed it and the filter again but it it is still slipping. Will this oil eventually wear off and fix itself or is there something I need to do now to fix it. Thanks for any help.

  • #2
    First, from Dallas.

    Second, take the time to fill in your profile as best you can. It helps us to help you if we know the basics about you and your ride.

    I would ride it for about 50 miles or so to thoroughly mix the remains of the old oil with the new. Then I would change it again. Most here use Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 synthetic or a similar product by Amsoil. Whatever you go with, make sure it is specifically blended for motorcycles. There's a particular additive (I've got CRS so I don't remember what it is) that needs to be there.
    Peace,
    Baron Wilhelm Gustav von Schmidt III
    (But you can call me Joe)

    Comment


    • #3
      The four letters you're looking for TXulrich are ZDDP. Bill, definitely do NOT cheap out on oil for this bike. Roadstars are pretty much bullet proof, but not if you use the wrong oil. Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 is a good oil that you can usually find just about anywhere. Just don't use regular Mobil 1, there's not enough ZDDP.

      As for the slipping, if the bike has more than 20k miles, it's common of the stock clutch spring to get tired and start slipping in higher gears under load; like on the freeway. You can replace it with an EBC spring or go all out and get a Barnet clutch spring, which is a bit more involved and more pricey, but you'll never deal with spring issues again. I personally run the EBC. Search the site for both.

      Comment


      • #4
        Yeh, what he said! V-Twin bike oil only... and either a 10w-40, as Yami recommends, and I use (Amsoil 10w-40 for BIKES), or a 20w-50, perhaps for the hotter climates, say below the Mason-Dixon. And, mine started to slip at about 37k miles, and for about $64 for the spring and clutch cover gasket, I went with the EBC. Never been a problem since.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks guys. The bike has 21K on it. It didn't slip at all before I put in the wrong oil. Yamaha recommends the Yamalube 20W40 or 20W50. Is this ok or should I use the Mobil1 V-Twin 20W 50?

          Comment


          • #6
            Ohio is far enough north that you don't need the 20w50, but using it won't hurt it. I'm in Texas and wouldn't use anything but. Even in the winter. I get my Mobil 1 typically from an auto parts store. They usually have better prices than a dealer.
            Peace,
            Baron Wilhelm Gustav von Schmidt III
            (But you can call me Joe)

            Comment


            • texasscott1
              texasscott1 commented
              Editing a comment
              +1 on that. 20W50 isn't recommended below 50 degrees. 10W40 is good, according to Yamaha, for temps over 100. Personally I run it year around down here in Texas. If it gets above 105 I just don't ride.

            • Txulrich
              Txulrich commented
              Editing a comment
              I haven't had that opportunity as yet. We're spota get close next week though.

          • #7
            Run some Seafoam in the oil, then change the oil again.

            Comment


            • #8
              Yamalube is fine but tends to be a bit more pricey and harder to come by.

              Comment


              • #9
                Oh no, someone brought up the dreaded oil question again. LOL.
                From Clemmons, North Carolina, near Winston-Salem, NC. I use Lucas 20w50 Conventional Motorcycle Oil. I talked with the head engineer in charge of their motorcycle oils and I told him what bike I had, the engine and its configuration, the transmission, the cam and lifter setup, and of course, about the wet clutches in our bikes. And I told him about the ZDDP requirement. He pulled up the data sheets on this oil and the synthetic version. Both of these oils exceed the requirements of all of our Road Stars. I have been running it for quite awhile now. My engine is very, very quiet and the transmission shifts like butter now. And it runs a lot cooler now, and I have rode in 95 degree plus days in the middle of the day when the temperature was at its peak and it is considerable cooler than with the yamalube which is what the previous owner was using. I used this on my first oil change until I decided what I was going to use. I buy this oil from O'reillys, comes in a 6 quart case at $7.49 a quart, and most of the time it is on sale for $6.49 a quart. But this is my choice. I am not trying to influence your decision. There are a lot of good oils out there. Most of the men here use the mobil or amsoil. But any of these are good and will do excellent job at protecting your machine. I don't run my oil over 3000 miles at the most. Usually around 2500 is good for me, I personally think that is long enough for an air cooled v-twin with a transmission involved. Keeping fresh oil is cheap to me considering the results of over running the oil. But that is up to you and your riding habits. It gets hot here where I live, but it doesn't get as hot here as it does in as say Texas or Florida. But use a good quality oil and filter and you will be find. The guys on here say that seafoam is find to put in the oil. I would say that marvel mystery or transmission fluid in the correct ratio would probably help clean the clutch of the automotive type oil that you used, providing that you run it say 50 or so miles then change it to the correct oil. But good luck with what you decide. These engines/transmissions are great units. But like every machine, they have their quirks. They will run a long time and give great service with the proper maintenance. Form good habits and stick to them. You will pretty much have a trouble free machine.
                Where ever you go, there you are.

                Comment


                • roadiemort
                  roadiemort commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Exceeds! Can you be more specific as in actual ppm's or that was all you got from them?

              • #10
                Thanks for all the advice. Looking forward to being a part of this forum!!

                Comment


                • #11
                  from Solon, IA.

                  Keep us updated on your progress.

                  Comment


                  • #12
                    From the Four Corners area.

                    I have ran Castrol 20w50 motor oil before, and have had no issues with that oil. I find it hard to beleave that oil has started the clutch slipping, unless they have changed the blend additives in their oil.
                    I've been running the Lucas 20w50 synthetic motorcycle oil now for over 4 years with the engine being quieter. I do blend Valvoline ZR-1 50w with it though.
                    A few years back I checked with Lucas on the Zinc additive ppm, and I think it was 1600 ppm, if my memory serves me correctly.

                    Comment


                    • #13
                      The regular pass car Castro’s 20-50 has friction modifiers that in some cases where clutch spring is worn/weak all that’s needed is to expose the wet clutch in the R* to friction mods and clutch will slip.

                      That at said I wold add 6oz sea foam to the fresh oil you just installed and run for a few hundred miles.

                      Then dump that oil and just drain the new oil filter and reistall for reuse and install 4qts std Dino motorcycle specificoil like for ex valvolones 20-50 for air cooled v twins.

                      Also ensure clutch is adjusted with proper free play too.

                      Now go for a ride to see if clutc still slips,if not great,if yes at a minimum you need a new clutch spring,worst case you need new clutch plates,steel spacers,release bearing,cover gasket,etc.

                      Scott

                      Comment


                      • #14
                        FYI,it’s not ZR1 vavoline 50,i think it’s VR1 50 race oil your ref to.

                        Comment


                        • Duke
                          Duke commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Yes, that's right. I'm loosing it!
                          VR-1 race oil.

                      • #15
                        Originally posted by TimB View Post
                        Run some Seafoam in the oil, then change the oil again.
                        ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
                        THIS right here is what you need to do!!!!

                        Rod

                        Comment


                        • #16
                          Thanks for all the help guys, but it looks like I've learned an expensive lesson. I ran the Seafoam and then changed the oil again (Mobil1 V-twin)) and the clutch is still slipping. It looks like I'll be installing a new clutch. Thanks

                          Comment


                          • #17
                            Chances are you don't need a new clutch. Just do the EBC (cheaper but may not last forever) or Barnett (more expensive but should last a long time) spring conversion.

                            Comment


                            • #18
                              Originally posted by Bill3538 View Post
                              Thanks for all the help guys, but it looks like I've learned an expensive lesson. I ran the Seafoam and then changed the oil again (Mobil1 V-twin)) and the clutch is still slipping. It looks like I'll be installing a new clutch. Thanks
                              I have a use plate stack if you want it. I can also give you my old EBC spring. It was starting to slip for me, but I think you can combine it with stock spring. If so then it would be pretty tight.
                              Manuals, Roadwing, other stuff
                              PGR
                              PGT MT

                              Comment


                              • Bill3538
                                Bill3538 commented
                                Editing a comment
                                Thank you. I've never changed a clutch before. I looked on Youtube. Is it just a matter of removing the side cover, taking off the plate, and removing and replacing the clutches? Since I've never done this before, is this something I can do myself or should I seek a professional? Any minor details i should know? Thanks

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