Brake fluid change

[Lug Nut]

NOTE: THIS IS A WRITE UP FOR A LINER THAT HAS HYDRALIC CLUTCH BUT BRAKE FLUID CHANGE IS SAME FOR ROAD STAR
I know a lot of people have struggled with changing brake fluid and have tried many methods, reverse bleeding with syringe etc. I have done this method on probably 20 bikes with great success...IF you have access to an air compressor....I bought my vacuum bleeder for about $25 many years ago at Harbor Freight...invaluable tool


Thought I'd take some pictures of changing clutch and brake fluid on my 2009 Roadliner. The applies to any motorcycle basically. I use a air compressor assisted vacuum bleeder, 8 mm Gearwrench speedy wrench, Prestone DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid, correct JIS screwdriver (can use regular small Phillips), long angled needle nose pliers, 2.5mm Allen head wrench, zip ties for levers, brake cleaner, shop/paper towels, and a couple towels/rage to keep things safe from brake fluid.

Clutch fluid change: turn bars all way to right, remove two 2.5mm Allen head bolts from master cylinder, remove master cylinder and plastic cover. Clean rubber under plastic cover by spraying brake cleaner and put those parts on clean paper towel for later. 8mm wrench to loosen brake caliper bleeder and then I have a rag wrapped around the caliper to prevent fluid from hitting anything. Towel/blanket on left side of bank to cover tank and entire area. I flip wrench around on the bleeder for easy tightening and then put the nipple from vacuum bleeder on brake bleeder fitting. Start sucking through and I remove every bit of fluid until master cylinder is empty. I clean master cylinder inside with brake cleaner and a rag/paper towel. Get it very clean, and no bits of paper towel or anything remaining. Fill up MC completely with fresh fluid and start sucking through working clutch lever a couple times...I suck through a whole MC worth to clear the lines out and keep adding to make sure it doesn't suck dry again. Then while filled to top with fresh fluid I keep it sucking while I tighten bleeder screw. Then remove vacuum bleeder replace rubber nipple and clean area with brake cleaner in case you dripped any. Make sure lever of MC is full and replace plastic cover rubber side down and metal top.

Same procedure for brakes starting with furthest one away (left side), then finishing with closest one.

Rear brake fluid change is pretty much the same. I used long handle angled needle nose pliers to remove the hard to reach bleeder rubber cap. Same draining and cleaning of MC etc.

I know some people will tell you don't ever never ever in the history of the world allow the master cylinder to run dry but that is pure and utter bullshit. When you use a air compressor assisted vacuum blader and you suck it through you can get it dry as a bone and then put fresh fluid in it suck it through and it's nice and tight.

You can see from the pictures how dark the brake fluid was I'm sure it was never changed in the 13 years this bike has been on the road. The level was pretty decent for the clutch and front brakes but looking at the rear brake it was only about 1/4 full. My brakes and clutch actually felt fine but I like to start fresh with any new bike I get for all fluids filters spark plugs checking everything etc.I have had great luck with this procedure and using Prestone dot for synthetic on all my bikes. With the clutch you don't usually need to zip tie the lever with front brake you sometimes do (or pull the lever firmly about 30 times and it will tighten right up).

I usually change out clutch and brake fluid every two years but since I have some money bikes right now I don't put a lot of miles on anyone and using synthetic is nice because it resists breakdown unlike conventional fluids so it can sit longer and not go bad unused.

[Lug Nut]

More pics

[roadiemort]

https://www.amazon.ca/Swess-Vacuum-Bleeder-Automotive-Adapters/dp/B07MCHCQ5X/ref=asc_df_B07MCHCQ5X/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335356088391&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2064997973009251981&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1002218&hvtargid=pla-692678165268&psc=1

[roadiemort]

For those without a compressor.

[UT14]

My Mytivac croaked and I was wondering what vacuum bleeder are you using?

[Lug Nut]

Mityvac didn't work for shit...that's why I got the air compressor assisted unit.

[UT14]

any suggestion as to a particular brand or model to look for?

[Lug Nut]

any suggestion as to a particular brand or model to look for?

Nope I bought mine at Harbor Freight and I've used it for several years on probably 20 bikes lol. It's a pretty simple device an air fitting a container and some tubing. I'd get that one off Facebook for 20 bucks

[SbTx_Rider]

I did mine this way and it was super easy.

Items needed,

1 empty plastic water bottle
Aquarium tubing
New Brake Fluid
1 bleeder nipple wrench.
1 Drill with a small bit and 1 drill bit sized for the airline tubing
1 piece of cardboard
A small amount of 5 minute epoxy.

The following is used to stabilize the bottom from tipping over.
Mix epoxy and spread onto the bottom of the plastic bottle. Place bottle on cardboard and let it set.
While waiting for epoxy to set, drill 1 hole in the center of the cap for the airline tubing. You want the hole just big enough to pull the tubing threw. Drill another very small hole to allow air to escape from the bottle.
Pull enough tubing threw the cap to reach the bottom of the bottle.
Pour enough new fluid to cover the bottom of the bottle and the tubing.

Bleed caliper using normal procedure.
Pump up, open valve, close valve. Pump, open valve,close valve.
Check and refill Reservoir.
You will then see the old fluid run into tubing and out into the bottom of the bottle. Once you see clear fluid you are done. Move to the next.
By placing the tube in fluid, this will prevent air from entering the tube

[Father Pobasturd]

I have never changed or even added brake fluid front or rear in 8 years. No telling if it was ever done before that either. Brakes still work.

[Lug Nut]

I have never changed or even added brake fluid front or rear in 8 years. No telling if it was ever done before that either. Brakes still work.

You get used to that slightly degraded performance every season. Believe me it's a big difference when you pull all the old fluid out run a master cylinder full of fresh fluid through and then fill everything properly and cap it off. Night and day difference

[Father Pobasturd]

Well, I said the brakes worked, I didn't say they worked well. Thing is, they didn't work all that well 8 years ago when I got the bike. Plus, the front brakes have that "notchy" feel. From what I have read that can be addressed by filing down the brake lever where it contacts the actuator or some shit like that. All the horror stories I read on here about people trying to bleed their brakes and not being able to get all the air out is enough for me to not want to fuck with it.

For many years I rode H-D's, chopped and usually with a spool hub and / or no front brakes. So, the brakes I have on my Roadstar now are like a big time upgrade for me. I have learned to use the front brake and use it almost exclusively now. Honestly, if they worked any better, I just might hurt myself.

[KFallsRider]

I wanna go and I wanna Stop.. oxygen will oxidize the fluid and moisture will form crystals.. brake fluid is composed of alcohol which absorbs water…those elements cause bad braking, possible failure..exchanging brake fluid is quicker than changing oil

[brianmac]

since only a few of the DOT 5 are NOT hydroscopic, meaning they suck moisture out of the air, if u live in AZ, your fluid will last longer, non-withstanding dust contamination?????
in land of humidity, i change all mine annually,
simple method too,
cover all painted parts,
use a clean baster like tool to remove fluid from MC, usually no BS in MC,can wipe BS with clean paper towel.
leave all but the last bit in the hole. fill, bleed until color change at the calipers.
i have a bleeder tool, but rarely need it.
hose it off, brake fluid will stain your tires, so use tubing into a wate container.
and i wait until jan or feb pred daytona during dry season, and drain and dry fuel tanks also.