Spark Plug Change Interval

[Ironman]

I'm sure that anti-seize made a lot of sense back in the day of plain steel plug threads (and probably still does if that's what is available), but with modern plugs and fancy plating it seems that risk outweighs reward.

[Lug Nut]

NGK on use of anti-seize:

"NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.

Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental."


You also run the risk of introducing the anti-seize into the cylinder for something completely unnecessary.


https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resourc...plug%20removal.

I've always used anti-seize but sparingly and carefully. I guess now I won't be doing that anymore lol. Good post.

[D-Fresh]

Thanks for the replies.

[Ironman]

NGK on use of anti-seize:

"NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.

Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental."


You also run the risk of introducing the anti-seize into the cylinder for something completely unnecessary.


https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resourc...plug%20removal.

[Father Pobasturd]

I'm a sucker for every "new and improved" spark plug that comes along. About 20 years ago I bought some that were cryogenically treated. (frozen) They sucked ass and were expensive. Then, I jumped on the Splitfire bandwagon. Lots of haters but I had good luck with them. So now I have E-3's screwed in there. So far so good.

[Brad_G]

For no more than they are, I'd suspect any good auto parts store would have them. If I recall I ordered mine through Rock Auto online when I was getting some filters and other things.

[Jclevesque]

Same thoughts a davej. I usually change every couple years. With fake plugs floating around, I typically buy regular ones at the dealership. Not sure where else in Canada would be a good place to buy.

[davej]

good-n- tight is correct. I 1 hand snug them after they touch the head (about 1/8-1/4 turn). Anti seize IMO optional. I don't think it hurts if you do and it also don't hurt if you don't.

[D-Fresh]

Thanks for the answers.

I guess that brings up another question. I see YT videos that say they will never install a plug w/o anti-seize and others say no. What's the consensus for the RS? The other question is torque if anti-seize is used. Usually you decrease the torque value if using it. Unless its just the good ole German value of "Good-n-tight". LOL

[Lug Nut]

It's easy enough to do and it's not a bad idea to pull the tank once a season inspect things pull the plug look at it and as cheap as they are just replace them if you pull them. I think the last time I bought plugs I got them for 10 or $12 for a set of four. And if I go to the trouble of actually pulling them to inspect them I'll just put fresh ones in since it's so cheap. Never hurt to take a look to give you an idea of the running condition of your motor. Also a good time to inspect your intake manifold for cracks make sure the nipple the top is still sealed up etc. Spray a little lube on throttle linkage and cables just generally check things out.

[davej]

Depends on what type of plugs you use. Standard plug 10K, Platinum plug maybe never or 50K. They are supposed to be good for 100K, Iridium plug never change again unless you just like changing plugs. IMO time frame means nothing. plugs don't go bad because of time.

[D-Fresh]

How often do you change your plugs? Mileage and/or timeframe?

Thanks