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Recommend a Carb Rebuild Kit and ReJetting

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  • Recommend a Carb Rebuild Kit and ReJetting

    My latest gremlin is fuel overflowing the bowl when sitting. I've been in the carb recently for a cleaning but didn't use a rebuild kit for all the gaskets/ needle valve and I'm guessing that's my issue.

    But, If I'm going to go in and do the work, I want a fresh start on the jetting (I have what I believe to be a dynojet needle and 195 main).

    I'm coming here for the real world experience and advice of the community.

    I've been reading on pumpless riders going with the Grizzly valve and the question on whether its needed or just the fact that its a fresh valve set. Thoughts?

    I'll take recommended vendors for all the parts too - I went to buy the "All Balls" 26-1726 Carb rebuild kit from MotorcycleID.com and they won't sell it to me in California. WTF? Guess its better to allow fuel to spill on the ground.

    2006 Road Star 1700 - CA Bike
    Thunder MFG Air Intake
    3" Big Straights w/ Monster Baffles
    Pump-less, Tank Vented, AIS removed.
    Dyna 3000

  • #2
    For 1600/1700 with pipes and aircleaner...
    Needle 4th groove from short end with washers and spacer in stock position (1 silver washer and plastic spacer under the clip)
    167.5 main. (172.5 main 1700)
    37.5 pilot. (40 pilot 1700)
    Start PMS at 2.5 turns out and dial it in when hot and idle is set to 850-900

    After turning the PMS screw out and the bike warmed up idling, use a tachometer, or listening very closely while turning the PMS screw in or out to find the highest idle. After you find the highest idle, turn the PMS screw out 1/8 to 1/4 turns. Your done.
    If you have to turn the PMS screw out more than 3 1/2 turns, then change the pilot jet to richer pilot.

    DYNA JET KIT INSTRUCTIONS:
    jet it the same as if it was a Barons kit and I don't think you will know the difference. It will still need a "Mikuni" 37.5 pilot jet, The 37.5 dyna pilot that comes in the kit flows the same amount of fuel as the stock 35 Mikuni pilot jet. If I remember correctly the Dyna needle set in the 4th groove would be the same as a Barons needle set in groove 3 1/2 so it would be just a Tad leaner than the Barons needle. You can always just add a shim washer for a total of 2 under the clip to make it almost exact to the barons needle
    "I'm Ricky Bobby. If you don't chew Big Red.....then Fuck You"

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    • #3
      Carb rebuild kit off ebay for $30 or less I believe
      "I'm Ricky Bobby. If you don't chew Big Red.....then Fuck You"

      Comment


      • #4
        Rebuilding a motorcycle carb is NOT like rebuilding a carb on a car. You do not take every single thing apart.
        You may not even be able to get some of the parts. Remember that.

        Comment


        • #5
          Float and float needle would need to be looked at closer. I would check if binding is happening at the float and remove pin. Clean up and polish smooth for it to work properly. Could be the tip if the needle not seating correctly and allowing fuel to pass thru. Double check proper level once complete.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Lucky View Post
            Rebuilding a motorcycle carb is NOT like rebuilding a carb on a car. You do not take every single thing apart.
            You may not even be able to get some of the parts. Remember that.
            I think I pretty much took every single thing apart the last time I gave it a good cleaning, except the TPS - eveyone says don't touch it! What I didn't do was employ a rebuild kit; the bowl gasket was a little iffy and the needle valve left a trail of black on the cloth I used (which indicates some degradation to me). There are a couple good videos on YouTube, including one by James Adams.

            Comment


            • Lucky
              Lucky commented
              Editing a comment
              Yes- the internet can be very helpful. If the creator of the video does not know the names of the parts beware .

          • #7
            • I don't know about any specific kits . If you need a fuel bowl gasket oring and a float valve here are the Yamaha part numbers
            • Fuel bowl. O-Ring
              5DM-14561-00-00
              $5.98

              small fuel bowl oring for Accelerator pump
              . O-Ring
              3FV-14147-00-00
              $5.62
            • float valve for using the fuel pump
              .Needle Valve Set
              4SV-14107-20-00 5UH-14107-20-00
              $25.24
            • If you want to go pumpless the float valve is
              2c614190-30-00

              If your bike has already been jetted and was running good nothing else needs to be replaced.

            Comment


            • Trex Star
              Trex Star commented
              Editing a comment
              I'm already pumpless, but with the oem needle valve set. Has it been your experience that there is a benefit to going to the larger needle valve?

          • #8
            I'm not pumpless but changing it will insure that you have enough fuel at high rpm and high speeds. I run the HSR carb and there are different float valves recommended by Mikuni for pumpless and pump..

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