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1700 AIS Solenoid: Cap off, close loop, or leave open?

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  • Bikerron
    commented on 's reply
    Poor thing was suffocating.

  • Chief
    replied
    Will do. Out of town for the next week. I'll take em when I get back. Wish I would have done before and after now.

    Leave a comment:


  • Father Pobasturd
    commented on 's reply
    Lets see a pic after the work.

  • Chief
    replied
    Thanks everyone for the input. So what started as a dead fuel pump turned into a project that sent me down a rabbit hole of upgrades, mods and bypasses. Fuel pump gone and went pumpless, jets changed to barons and upgraded other jets as recommended on here, carb completely cleaned, gas cap vented, AIS gone, charcoal canister gone, relocated the crankcase filter under the tank, stock air gone replaced with HF K&N filter, and ripped out any emission hoses I could find and capped the openings. Final result: no more backfires at all, much smoother engine idle, faster accelleration, and butt dino says I increased my HP. Best yet, opened up the engine to a lot of new air by cleaning the garbage out of the way and dropped 11 Lbs off the bike. None of this would have been possible without the help on the RC Forum. Thank you everyone that helped.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bikerron
    commented on 's reply
    “ Stopped cold when I saw the electrical plug.”

    Then I’m still confused as to what electrical plug you are referring to.

  • Chief
    commented on 's reply
    No, I kept it on. I was just doing all of these mods since I had the bike apart for the pumpless mod. RSC has really helped by posting step-by-step instructions for all of this. It's amazing how much cleaner it looks. Would be on the road but unfortunately I need to replace the float bowl gasket now. Small drip from a corner. Can't get it to stop.

  • Bikerron
    replied
    If you’re going pumpless, then you’re carbonated and there shouldn’t be any wiring harness to the AIS. It’s vacuum operated. Only the fuelies have an electrically controlled valve in the system.

    Hope you're not not referring to the voltage regulator in front of it. It’s temporarily removed to gain access to the AIS, then reattached afterwards.
    https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1sW.8j...pg_640x640.jpg

    Don't do what another member did. Threw it in the trash along with the smog plumbing.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chief
    replied
    Thanks Doc for the post and everyone that commented. I ripped my RS apart a few weeks ago thanks to a dead fuel pump. In going pumpless I took off all of the emissions until I got to this solenoid. Stopped cold when I saw the electrical plug. Was afraid i was going to forever throw a code light if I removed it. Then I was concerned I pulled too much off. I have the same service manual but the colors on here broke it down for me Barney style. Today, everything gets rebuilt. Perfect timing reading this.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    replied
    Thanks ken, if i'm reading it correctly, just leave the AIS Solenoid plugged in and use the hoses or don't. Either way is fine. Yes?

    Leave a comment:


  • sprt220
    replied
    Pictured is the Air Box side of carburetor.

    This hose "A" is Item #10 from up above
    that goes to the solenoid valve, this
    hose can be removed.

    Leave the nipple un-plugged this is the
    vent for your float bowl.

    Pictured is the back side of the carburetor,

    Hose "1" is the vacuum hose to the charcoal canister, Item # 3 from above, you'll want to remove the hose completely.

    If viewing from the shifter side between the jugs, it is the hose is on the left-hand side of
    the Carb.

    Plug off the nipple the hose was removed from
    upon the carb~ with a rubber cap which will have to be bought from an auto supply store.
    Items below can be removed :

    Item # 3: Charcoal canister to carburetor hose "1"
    Item # 4: Charcoal canister
    Item # 5: Charcoal canister to rollover valve hose
    Item # 7: solenoid valve coupler
    Item # 8: solenoid valve
    Item # 9: solenoid valve to air filter case hose (see note #1)
    Item # 10: solenoid valve to carburetor hose "A"

    The above items can be removed and leave the # 2 hose in place,
    Some earlier year models had defective rollover valves, Item #6,
    which would malfunction and close off, this resulted in quite a few collapsed fuel tanks.
    Some have taken the initiative to replace the rollover valve with a small inline fuel filter.
    Item #2 is your fuel tank vent hose. This is just an option.

    # 1 : When you remove this hose, if you are running a airbox that that has a nipple
    such as the stock air box, place a cap on the nipple.......
    If you are installing an air box or have a air box that has no connection then
    there is no need to do anything.
    Pictured is the Air Box side of carburetor.

    This hose "A" is Item #10 from up above
    that goes to the solenoid valve, this
    hose can be removed.

    Leave the nipple un-plugged this is the
    vent for your float bowl.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shores
    replied
    Originally posted by Doc_V View Post
    Well I've got to ask... Why then do the 1600s require you to loop the AIS ports instead of just unplug the solenoid?
    That diagram is just for riders who want to “test” to see if unplugging the AIS will improve performance. If it does, then you remove all the components.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    replied
    Well I've got to ask... Why then do the 1600s require you to loop the AIS ports instead of just unplug the solenoid?

    Leave a comment:


  • Shores
    replied
    Originally posted by Doc_V View Post
    I'm talking about a loop on the AIS solenoid... Like the green line in this diagram:



    Unplugging the AIS wont mess with anying? BTW, Shores, yours is FI, is the AIS the the same as the carbed bikes?
    Mine is FI and slightly different, but the concept is the same. It’s my understanding that you remove all the AIS crap including the canister, chrome tubes and the solenoid. Then cap the intake box port and the head ports. The solenoid wire then is just tucked out of the way, no need to install a jumper, etc.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    replied
    I'm talking about a loop on the AIS solenoid... Like the green line in this diagram:



    Unplugging the AIS wont mess with anying? BTW, Shores, yours is FI, is the AIS the the same as the carbed bikes?

    Leave a comment:


  • texasscott1
    replied
    If you make a loop of the lines going to the engine they'll fill up with condensation. If you just have to disable the AIS then it's better to block off the head ports. Pretty easy on the 1700.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shores
    replied
    Doesn’t matter if you disconnect the electrical wire. The solenoid won’t operate with out the electrical wire. Just tuck the wire up under the tank and remove the solenoid.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    started a topic 1700 AIS Solenoid: Cap off, close loop, or leave open?

    1700 AIS Solenoid: Cap off, close loop, or leave open?

    Like the title says, which do you do for a 1700? Pull the lines off the solenoid and leave the ports open or close the loop, like green hose in the diagram below?


    The diagram is from the 1600, the 1700 solenoid doesn't have three ports, just the two bottom one

    Click image for larger version  Name:	fetch?id=66667&d=1554867201&type=large.jpg Views:	1 Size:	75.8 KB ID:	66712

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