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  • re-jetting

    Getting ready to pull the carb, first time for me. Couple of questions, the two electrical wires at the bottom of the carb can be removed from the bottom of the carb, correct? I notice that there is a connection near the frame for the same wires. If I disconnect them at this point look like a PTA to get the wires back through? Also the Choke has been replaced on mine with a Pacific Coast choke. It was routed over the intake. Seems to me that running it under would be a better option? How is everybody else's routed? Any other suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks

  • #2
    The two wires on the bottom of the carb are for the heater and they pull right of. One is a flat blade and the other is a round post; be gentle with the plug on the round post because it can brake off if you're too rough. Just pull straight down. The other wire is for the Throttle Position Sensor; it has to be unplugged by the fuel pump. The *cough cough* "enricher" cable should be routed under the intake manifold. Honestly, I don't know how it could be routed *over* the manifold unless the PO broke the original and what you have now is from another bike, which is possible, because the stock cables are expensive. Either way, as long as it works, that's what's most important.
    Last edited by Doc_V; 02-27-2019, 10:28 AM.

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    • #3
      Thanks Doc, all done now. 172.5 main 40 pilot 2 1/2 turns out. Barron's needle on the 4th clip. New fuel filter and plugs. Running good. If it would quit raining I'd be a happy fellow!!

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      • #4
        I may have put the fat washer and one thin washer on top of the clip and one thin washer under the clip. If I did what would be the issue? I rode for about ten miles appears to be running fine. Is it worth going thru the trouble of verifying?

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        • #5
          Actually it makes quiet a bit of difference. A single thin washers is the same as moving the clip half a groove on the needle; i.e two thin washers is the same as moving one groove on the needle. Without the large spacers and and a thin washer *under* the clip, it's about the same as being on the first or second groove, instead of the 4th. That will make you run much leaner throughout all carb circuits. It may feel OK, but it's not correct and you'll feel a difference when correct. I'd definitely fix that. You don't have to remove the carb to do it, just the tank and diaphragm cover.

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          • #6
            It runs fine, but I will take the tank off and check.

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            • #7
              Well, did re-check my work. It was correct. Better to measure twice and cut once! I was sure I did it correctly but there was just a little bit of doubt. I was having low blood sugar when doing the re-jet and should have took a break and ate something, but no I had to get the job done. Damn low sugar will cloud your thought process! All good now bike is running like a Champ!! Thanks to the clinic again!

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              • #8
                Nice, glad to hear all his good. Now go enjoy that beast.

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                • #9
                  When checking your spark plugs are the ones in the front going to run a little leaner than the rear plugs?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by NCB View Post
                    When checking your spark plugs are the ones in the front going to run a little leaner than the rear plugs?
                    That is common when comparing front to rear. But both should have a little color to them, and not white.

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                    • #11
                      Davej, the old jetting on my bike was 175 main and no markings on the pilot? Now I have a 172.5 main w/bafflers and a 40 pilot. 2 1/2 out. Could the 175 main w/ no bafflers made enough difference to cause the exhuast smell that I have had since I owned it?

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