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  • #21
    I bought the prefilter in red for mine from Outerwears.

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    • #22
      roadiemort, can u give us a review on that in the rain?

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      • roadiemort
        roadiemort commented
        Editing a comment
        The bike that is going on is not on the road yet but yes will do when the time comes

    • #23
      I'll come on started up in the garage and piss on the air cleaner. No just kidding yeah they say it like it's water repellent and k&nn n they also make one wondering if it's even worth it yeah it would be like a sports bra

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      • roadiemort
        roadiemort commented
        Editing a comment
        I poured water on it, didn't go through.

    • #24
      I have the K&N RA066-V filter and I use their water repellent sock. I have ridden in the rain a couple of times for over an hour and no trouble.

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      • #25
        highvoltage , not splitting hairs, but light rain of hard rain, light rain doesnt pose a problem without a sock., only when the element gets soaked and occludes air flow.

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        • highvoltage
          highvoltage commented
          Editing a comment
          Very hard rain. Also considering I was on the highway, both times, doing 65 mph.

      • #26
        I went through the trouble of testing for you in a torrential Faucet test, no water passed through the sock at full pressure when held under the tap for some time, so I agree with Highvoltage that they work for their intended purpose.

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        • highvoltage
          highvoltage commented
          Editing a comment
          Mort, just to show you great minds think alike. When I first received the rain sock, I plugged the intake on the filter and placed the sock on it. Then I went out on the yard and turn on the garden hose. After a good 15 min. water did not go through.

      • #27
        yes ! thanks guys, we get a little rain down here........one day like 2 yrs ago, we got 8-10 in of rain in 4hrs. likes like total annual rainfall in some areas of the country.

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        • #28
          just an fyi for the newbies here, many of us dont like the way the OEM filter assmbly winds up knocking at your knee, that is part of the decision to go the KN clamp-on, in addtition to the doubling of air flow . but keep in mind, carbeurated models will instantly run too lean, which can damage your motor by allowing it to get to hot; especially true if coupled with aftermarket exhaust. be sure to rejet, follow RSC directions. I am not sure what needs done for the less powerful Fuel Injected models? I say that because it is alleged that a carbed bike can be over-tweaked, but a FI cannot????? not sure the difference is noticeable, but its kind a like the BLACK color Roadies are the fastest, or RED porsches are also.

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          • roadiemort
            roadiemort commented
            Editing a comment
            You didn't find much cause not much to do except adjust your PMS screw until you change your exhaust also, then you will need to rejet your carb.

          • roadiemort
            roadiemort commented
            Editing a comment
            Jetting when you change exhaust 1700cc 04 to 07. 172.5 main, #40 pilot,needle clip on the 4th groove from the blunt end of a Barons adjustable needle, pms 2 1/2 turns out to start with. This is using Mikuni jets.

          • BigPainRing
            BigPainRing commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks Mort!

        • #29
          Poor Boys air box that works. More than enough air.

          Click image for larger version

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ID:	48944Click image for larger version

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ID:	48945

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          • Brad_G
            Brad_G commented
            Editing a comment
            Is that a modified stock air box? Where did you get the grills?

          • Duke
            Duke commented
            Editing a comment
            Stock modified air box.
            I fabricated the grills from a scrap piece of 5/32" aluminum screen.

        • #30
          I just bought the RC1980. I'm going to fab a bracket ti hold it in place. I will be selling the Yamaha BAK in the near future, for a very reasonable price, if anyone is interested. I'll post pics when it goes up for sale.

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          • #31
            I just came in from the garage after installing the K&N 1980. It took all of 5 minutes, good thing because it's freakin cold outside. Filter fit snugly on the carb, and after getting the clamp good and tight with an 8mm socket, I started the bike up to hear if there was any intake noise. I had the Yamaha accessory BAK on the bike, so I was always hearing a bit of intake noise, but the K&N really didn't sound much louder. I will be offering the Yamaha kit for sale soon, cheap. Pics will be coming soon. The filter seems really securely mounted, but I will fab a bracket before I ride it in the spring.

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            • #32
              yeah, its not rocket science, 3/4 alum from lowes or HD, one bolt thru back side of air cleaner. note Stainles bolt and LOCKNUT, LOCKNUT on outside, so if it ever gets loose, it dont get sucked in . youll need a small hand or a set of hemastats to feed OUT the bolt thru from the inside. I used a MAPS torch to bend the aluminum , grind or round over the ends, stainless hex bolts and washers, and a barrel washer for rear one, because the cylinder heads are offset a smidgeon.
              Immediately after KN install, I had to rejet mine instantly with factory carb and jetting. it would idle fine, but "you got a let down when u put the hammer down", as they say. if you guys remember , i put duct tape over almost the entire new KN air like 70 % , then she ran right. then i knew it was rejet time. i had stage 1 exhaust at that time if i remember.
              IMHO, this is the best of all worlds, stage 1 is free, gives nice sound, benefit from factory crossover,and heat shields, good chrome. KN is affordable, and reuseable.
              AND air filter DONT KNOCK YOUR DAMN inside of you KNEE.

              Comment


              • roadiemort
                roadiemort commented
                Editing a comment
                Didn't AR Hillbilly trash is motor using bolts that came off and got sucked into his intake? I you have to use a bracket (you don't) fasten with HD pop rivet.

            • #33
              Looks good on there. This was money well spent.

              Comment


              • #34
                b seward, looks good , has the old 70's sportser look which is timeless and priceless. I am not monk or felix unger, but you could fill those 2 holes on either side of the air cleaner with short SS hex key bolts .
                Also, I got rid of the old lower bracket on mine, and shortened the idle ADJ cable.

                Comment


                • #35
                  Already done. I had some fancy chrome handgrip ends with the proper chrome Allen screws. They are in place on the heads, and I plan or removing the bottom bracket soon.

                  Comment


                  • #36
                    I didn't want to drill any holes in the filter for pop rivets, and I was not comfortable with using nuts and bolts anyway. My luck, the motor would swallow something, and I'd be back inside it again to fix something else. I redneck engineered a way to keep the filter from moving without drilling. Simply got some steel strips about 3/8" by 3" long. Drilled out the end to fasten to the heads at the threaded holes. I needed a couple washers to take up the extra space, as the caps I covered the area of the threaded holes with were bigger than the machined area around the holes. The metal strips tighten down well, and won't move. From there, I loosened them a tiny bit and moved them so the free end ended up behind the filter. A few small bends later, and they slid in snugly behind the filter. With a brace behind both the front and rear of the filter, there is no movement at all, and the braces are not tight enough against the back of the filter to put pressure on it to force it off. Next step will be the fishing leader idea, just in case a backfire blows it off the carb. I'm not a fisherman, but I bought a couple of leaders when I needed one to mod the seat latch from the key opening to a simple pull cable. Now I can use the other one. This forum, along with the Vmax forum I belong to, are a great source of really good information, and I appreciate all the help I've gotten here.

                    Comment


                    • #37
                      Originally posted by BSeward View Post
                      I didn't want to drill any holes in the filter for pop rivets, and I was not comfortable with using nuts and bolts anyway. My luck, the motor would swallow something, and I'd be back inside it again to fix something else. I redneck engineered a way to keep the filter from moving without drilling. Simply got some steel strips about 3/8" by 3" long. Drilled out the end to fasten to the heads at the threaded holes. I needed a couple washers to take up the extra space, as the caps I covered the area of the threaded holes with were bigger than the machined area around the holes. The metal strips tighten down well, and won't move. From there, I loosened them a tiny bit and moved them so the free end ended up behind the filter. A few small bends later, and they slid in snugly behind the filter. With a brace behind both the front and rear of the filter, there is no movement at all, and the braces are not tight enough against the back of the filter to put pressure on it to force it off. Next step will be the fishing leader idea, just in case a backfire blows it off the carb. I'm not a fisherman, but I bought a couple of leaders when I needed one to mod the seat latch from the key opening to a simple pull cable. Now I can use the other one. This forum, along with the Vmax forum I belong to, are a great source of really good information, and I appreciate all the help I've gotten here.
                      I did the same thing, but drilled holes in the ends of the two brackets and put sheet metal screws from the outside through the holes and into the back of the filter. The screws stay in fine. If they do ever back out, they will just fall to the ground.

                      Comment


                      • #38
                        As a matter of fact, both of the brackets are already drilled. It wouldn't be too hard to stick something in those holes to mark the back of the filter and screw them in with a sheet metal screw.. Good idea, thanks!

                        Comment


                        • #39
                          update, much later after KN universal install. i do a lot of short jaunt driving, and after a year or 3, the KN is a mess of oily from crankcase, so i plugged air filter hole with a plastic cap and zip tie, and put the up123 filter under the driver seat. now i have to remember to clean the up123 regularly.

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                          • #40
                            K&n rc-1980

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