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2005 R* 1700 Roadhouse Dualies, K&N Air Filter Jetting Questions

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  • 2005 R* 1700 Roadhouse Dualies, K&N Air Filter Jetting Questions

    Good evening.
    So, this is a 2005 Yamaha Road Star 1700 with mentioned Roadhouse pipes and the teardrop looking type of K&N Airfilter.
    With the stock carb it would hesitate during acceleration and drag on the freeway, maybe hitting 90 with rearwind, downhill.
    Bought the DynoJet kit, followed all instructions (exchanged needle, clip on 4th groove, replaced original pilot with the DynoJet Pilot) and replaced the original 182.5 main jet with the 200 from the kit.
    initially all went well after adjusting the PMS to 3 or 3 1/2 turns out.

    Idled well, no backfire and you could feel an increase in power. Riding from Tucson, AZ to Yuma, AZ the bike just powered right through 100mph+ without any hesitation and had a great throttle response.
    Man, great deal.

    Once I made it to yuma the bike started to backfire HARD and LOUD. No matter how slow I was going, as soon as you let go of the throttle it popped, banged and using the gears to shift down it seemed there was fireworks all around me.
    Then I noticed I was getting around 25-30 mpg.

    Back in Tucson I tried to play with the PMS to address the backfire during decelration, no luck.
    Replaced the 200 main with the 195 main, bike lacks a little of the previous acceleration and still backfires. PMS set at 3.5 for now.

    I looked at the baron's instructions and they state to use the 175 main in their kit while DynoJet is stating to use the 200.
    The carbs iriginal Main is 182.5, why would baron tell you to use a smaller one, the 175?

    There are also a 205 and a 210 main in the kit, but I think those are for racing purposes or such.

    Anyone have any idea, has experienced this.

    Anyone have used a DynoJet on a similar setup as mine? if so, let me know the main used, pms setting to use a gauge.

    Any help, appreciated greatly.

    BTW: Riding in town with that 200 main was some experience for sure. SO NICE!!

  • #2
    Most here use the Barons jet kit, someone will post the comparison chart, I don't have it.


    • #3
      Make sure the coasting enrichener cover didn't crack on you. It'll do exactly what you described if it did. They get old and the plastic gets brittle. It's a cheap fix if that's it. If it happened all of the sudden, that doesn't sound like a jetting issue, unless maybe a jet fell out. At the speeds you were riding, don't expect any better than 20-25 MPG.

      You should do an intro thread and then fill out the spec sheet on your bike so others will know what you have. You won't have to mention it in every thread that way. Are you from Tucson? I'm just up the road in Florence.


      • #4
        I actually work in Florence, come up here every day.
        Coasting enricher...hmmm...
        It looks prety dark in the middle (Cover) and has cracks, looks lke old, dried plastic.
        But it looked like that before the jetting as well. But weird that the popping just started after riding for 2+hours.

        On the way back from Yuma I kept the bike at maybe 5+ speedlimit and didn't do anything unusual. Still got the same milage.
        Will check the enricher today. Maybe put the 200 back in.

        Does a bigger jet contribute to lower MPG? And you said it is a cheap fix. Just buy the new plastic cover?

        Thanks fr your help.


        • #5
          Barons uses Mikuni jets. DJ uses their own jets.
          A DJ 200, is equal to a 187.5 Mikuni.

          Since it ran fine before, and not now, I’d say it has nothing to do with your jetting, and everything to do with a vacuum/air leak.
          An air leak can result from......
          TheCoasting Enricher cover on the side of the carb is possibly cracked.
          If the AIS has been removed, then the cap or whatever sealed up the port on the intake manifold is cracked or not sealing anymore.
          The intake manifold flanges to head connection is leaking.

          Another backfire source can be...

          Exhaust gaskets at the heads are leaking.

          Messing with the carb, can cause the manifold flange joints to leak. If you get an air leak, then running to Rich on the main, will cover the flaw. For awhile.

          The DJ Needle, is actually slimmer and faster tapered, then the fat stock needle. This is why on here, when we recommend jetting, we recommend a 172.5 Mikuni Main. This is considerably smaller then the stock 182.5 Mikuni, but the slimmer faster tapered needle, makes it work. The DJ comparable size, is a DJ 185.

          I think you have an air leak, that was masked by the rich 200 DJ Main, until it got so bad, it started backfiring. Or, possibly a leaking exhaust gasket.

          A DJ 37.5, is the same size as the stock Mikuni 35 Pilot. You gained nothing there. A Mikuni 40 is a better fit for a 1700.


        • #6
          Thank you for the responses.
          So, yes, the enricher plastic is looking old, brittle and has been cracked for the past 4 years of me owning the bike. Last thing I would have looked at since it has always been that way.
          Would a smaller main impact or negate the power increase?

          Just replaced the exhaust gaskets recently, will make sure all it tight and secure and check the manifold as well..


          • #7
            Throw away the Dynojet brand jets and buy Mikuni jets. Get a 172.5 mainjet and a #40 pilot jet. Put the clip in the 4th groove and pms at 2 1/2 turns out. That will get the jetting corrected. If you have air leaks at the manifold,the AIS nipple on the intake manifold or coasting enricher cover they will obviously need to be corrected also.


            • #8
              +1 what Davej says....don't mix and match. Mikuni all the way.


              • #9
                Got the #40 in hand and ordered the 172.5. Used spray to check vacuum leaks and think a gasket from the rear dylinder is leaking as the motor bogged down when I sprayed that area. always, it starts with a slightly lose screw and ends with a huge construction project. LOL

                Thanks for the replys so far, will keep updating what I did and how things turn out.

                All have a good evening..


                • #10
                  When you remove the manifold, if the orings are still decent they can be reused.
                  Surface the flange faces using some 300 to 400 wet dry sand paper, and a hard flat smooth surface like a piece of glass, or a marble or granite tile.
                  Tape the paper to the flat surface.
                  Put the flange face down on the paper. Pressing evenly, do some figure 8’s until the surface is clean and even. It won’t take much, you’ll see when you get it off the bike and have a looksee.
                  When reinstalling, Yamaha just uses regular grease on the face to allow the flange to squirm around as it’s tightened, and hold the orings in place. Some here have used Hylomar or Permatex’s Permashield around the face area outside of the oring to help seal the manifold better. It is a blue toothpaste consistency material that is heat and fuel resist, and non hardening. Like the grease, it allows the flange to squirm and shift as needed when being tightened.
                  When tightening, finger tighten all the bolts evenly. Then working back and forth from one flange to the other in a criss cross pattern, tightening about a quarter turn on each bolt at a time, tighten the flange bolts.


                  • #11
                    I so wished I knew what you are describing. It sounds very easy and logical I just don't know which manifold, which o-rings, what flange.
                    It really makes sense but I need to make sure I am following you correctly.

                    I put a photo here and circled where I sprayed on both sides of the motor. Only right side is leaking very slightly.
                    If THIS is what you are explaining, then I got it.

                    Thanks a lot again.


                    • #12
                      Actually, spraying there may have simply allowed the spray to get sucked in the possibly cracked Coasting Enricher cover.
                      The manifold, is what the Carb slips into. Yamaha calls it the carb boot. It’s black, Y shaped, and runs from the carb to both heads.


                      • #13
                        Correct. I figured that is what you meant by manifold. The area in the picture shows a very slight oil leak over time and I sprayed the same area but on the other side and it started to bog down as well even though there is no oil leaking. I used one of those little red plastic straw tips to keep it focused on that area.
                        BUT, I should be getting the new main within a day and will start with the carb first and then see what is next.

                        Again, looking forward to learn more and more. Not planning on selling the bike, too much time on and in it.

                        Thanks again.


                        • roadiemort
                          roadiemort commented
                          Editing a comment
                          GET A MANUAL and learn to read, they have pictures too, free for online version.

                      • #14
                        well and then there are guys like this. Implying I don't know how to read angrily telling me I should get a manual. Well thank you very much buddy. What you're pretty much saying there's no reason to have this website at all because people can always find the information and the questions answered if they just learn how to read.
                        How about you learn some people skills and understand that not everything is written? Appreciate no further participation from you in my questioning. Apparently it's causing a lot of distress and anger in you. Sorry about that but feel free to block me


                        • roadiemort
                          roadiemort commented
                          Editing a comment
                          No need to get butte hurt, your first priority to learning about any bike is to read the manual, this is part of working on your own bike, call it a prerequisite to owning a machine you intend to work on. If I sound harsh it is because I don,t understand the many folks over the years that have a hard time understanding how to become a little self sufficient in life by doing some of the learning the old fashion way and helping yourself as much as possible. I apologize if I hurt your feelings as thhat was not my intent. Mort

                      • #15
                        hi krank , dont be offended , ask away , not every answer will be the one your looking for sir , but from what i have seen everyone is trying to help you bruv , cool head sir


                        • #16
                          Roadiemort... I appologize for snapping back at you. I have a manual and did as much reading as posdible, including websites. But there is so much information out there, at time being very contradicting (hence me buying the Dynojet kit instead of knowing I coukd just buy the Mikuni jets mentioned.)
                          Apologies, brother.


                          • #17
                            When using the Mikuni jets mentioned you will also be using the Dynojet needle not the OEM needle.


                            • #18
                              SO glad you just posted it. LOL.
                              THAT was about to be my next question.
                              But all is in now. Jet, pilot, needle on 4th groove, 2 1/2 pms out. warming the bike...AND A MASSIVE RAIN just hitting my house.

                              But I will update on progress. Thank you all very much.

                              All assembled, warmed to operating temperature, so far the revving does not cause any backfire at all, unlike before. Waiting for a break in the rain to ride it.


                              • #19
                                This setup works for you ?


                                • #20
                                  in my engine the engine speed with the pms of 3.5 out stops increasing


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