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  • Right Carb Spitting Gas

    So, I live in MI and it was 80 today. I took the bike out for a ride and left it running while I ran into a store for a minute as it's been sitting a bit. When I got on it to leave, it suddenly just died. Then, I hear this sizzling sound and smell gas. I quickly hit the kill switch and shut off the key. I looked down and saw fuel at the back of the rear head down by the crank case.

    Long story short, I fooled around, took the air filter housing off and ultimately, did not solve the problem but, I know where the fuel is coming from. There is a tube (not sure what it's intended for but, I'm guessing not shooting gas on the engine) that connects to the air filter housing. When I turn on the key and fuel pump, all is well. As soon as I crank it, fuel shoots out of back side of the air filter housing. The tube that connects the carb to the air filter housing just routes through the housing.

    So, without the air filter housing attached, fuel shoots out of the open die cast tube on the back of the carb. When the air filter housing is connected via a rubber tube, fuel shoots out of the brass looking tube that is pointing straight down in the right hand picture. Obviously, the bike won't start given that lots of fuel is flying around outside of the cylinders.

    I would really appreciate any insight anyone has as to what in the world is going on. As I said, it was idling and then just stalled and started throwing fuel around.
    Click image for larger version

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    Here's another seemingly odd thing I found. The large rubber tube at the top of this pic sort of in the background further back from the die-cast tube on the carb is not connected to anything. I can't see where it might have been connected and it doesn't move easily so, not sure if it's some sort of vent or if it's supposed to be connected somewhere. The bike was hot and I burned my hands it 5 places just getting it apart this far. Any and all help from you Gurus is appreciated.

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    Attached Files

  • #2
    Ok, I would have to say I think your gas tank vent isn't working good and your tank pressured up.
    I had a similar problem after fueling up my bike, then setting in the sun it heated up and did the same thing as your bike. I found the roll over valve was gummed up causing the tank to pressure up.
    The roll over valve is located behind the side covers on the down tube part of frame. I eliminated the valve with a hose nipple and checked the vent at the tank.
    The tube behind the carb vent is a air filter that looks like a PCV valve is for the air moving in and out of the bottom of the slide diaphragm. Leave it open like it is.
    Last edited by Duke; 6 days ago. Reason: it's not the top, it's the bottom part of the slide, sorry.

    Comment


    • #3
      Carb puke. Heat related. Agravated by ethanol gas. The fuel was pushing out of the bowl vent. The fuel builds pressure from expansion and pushes past the needle and seat. Once it starts, the pump makes it worse.

      Comment


      • #4
        How was the left carb? Damn, burned your hand in 5 places? You should stay out of those places.



        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks to all. So, how do I fix it? Replace or eliminate the roll over valve? Will it settle down once it cools off? I try not to use gas with ethanol but, I'm guessing there's some Stabil in there. I don't ride it often so, usually keep the gas treated. Maybe I shouldn't?

          The gas tank was under pressure for sure. I noticed it when I removed the cap just trying different things.

          Yes Father, the left carb is fine. I have two, don't you? Ha, ha... Meant right side or something like that.

          Comment


          • #6
            You are missing a vent hose at the top left of the carb inlet that should be hosed down below the bike. This should help not spraying your bike with fuel. Use 5/16" non pressure fuel line for it. I routed mine behind the pushrod tube. I recently done mine. Take a look at this thread.

            https://www.roadstarclinic.com/forum...ness-carb-puke

            Comment


            • dodadnules
              dodadnules commented
              Editing a comment
              The OEM tube is connected and runs into the filter hsg. I think my issue is stopping the puke more than routing it when it does.

            • dodadnules
              dodadnules commented
              Editing a comment
              But, thanks!

          • #7
            The guys have been suggesting turning off the fuel line 20 to 30 seconds before shutoff. I forgot to do it yesterday after a ride. I drained the oil out of the tank and turned around took my lift and slid it under the frame and blammo carb puke all over my lift. Less than a minute later would of got it real close to my face. Lesson learned on this on for me.

            Comment


            • #8
              Various fixes include...
              Turning the petcock off, before shutting the key off, and starting the bike before opening the petcock again.
              Changing the needle and seat, just Incase the oring on the seat is failing from age and letting the fuel past into the bowl when under pressure.
              Getting rid of the rollover valve, or venting the cap, if there was pressure from the expansion, and the rollover wasn’t letting that pressure escape like it should.
              Going pumpless, and getting rid of the rollover and venting the cap.

              It may actually be the rollover as Duke mentioned. The originals were a flawed design that Yamaha redesigned, and the newer style is still a problem because of its tendency to get clogged.
              It is something I’ve never considered, when trying to understand the puke. It makes perfect sense however.
              I always thought the pump was creating a backdoor the pressure couldn’t get past, thus forcing the fuel into the bowl. If the heat was causing the fuel in the entire system(tank and all)to expand, and the rollover valve was not working properly, it’d result in the carb puke.

              I think in the interest of Science, I’d ditch the rollover valve for starters

              As Jc mentioned, if you route the line that was connected to the bowl vent, down below the bike instead of to the metal fitting on the back of the airbox, if it does ever puke again, it’ll dump on the ground instead of all over the bike and hot exhaust.
              You can get a piece of hose at an auto parts place. I think there is a vacuum hose the correct size. I ran mine behind the rear rocker tube, and down below the bike and zip tied it to the frame.

              Comment


              • #9
                Thanks much. Ya, I think I'll just eliminate the roll over valve and as long as I keep the stock breather, do as SKWEARpeg suggests and route the vent down below the frame. That should be a really easy fix with some black tube and black zip ties.

                So, do you guys think the bike will start and run now that it has cooled off? In my case, I know I got it really hot and then, to add injury, left it idle on the kickstand for like 15 minutes trying to charge the battery. The bike stalled by itself and simultaneously puked. I'm thinking the puking started before it stalled and so, it either ran out of gas or flooded as some have suggested they do. But, in all the cases discussed, the puking seems to occur after it's shut off. Again, in my case, the bike stalled and I immediately heard sizzling and smelled gas. Then, started poking around and found that whenever the starter was hit, it puked fuel. As I think about it, it was getting better the longer the bike sat and cooled off.

                Where is the roll over valve again? Duke said it's behind the side covers. Anybody know which side? I'll try to get some tube and fittings so I can bypass the valve. Any shot at tube diameter?

                Comment


                • #10
                  Pull the left side cover. The rollover valve is a little plastic gizmo zip tied to the frame down tube below the battery. If you were to trace the tank vent line from the tank, you’ll end up there. You can buy a small plastic connector with a hose barb on each end, remove the valve and reconnect the two hose ends with the connector.

                  Yeah, I agree. The bike flooded and that’s what caused it to die.
                  It should start and run fine now.

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    Where in MI are you?

                    Comment


                    • dodadnules
                      dodadnules commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Saint Joseph. It's 80 again today so, heading to where I have the bike temporarily stored and try to bypass the roll over valve and fire it back up. Looks like you may be nearby. The dam looks familiar. Where are you?

                    • Deerkiller
                      Deerkiller commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I live in Ida. Across the state from you. That pic was taken in Dundee, MI

                  • #12
                    dodadnules,i responded to your PM so chk it out.

                    Scott

                    Comment


                    • #13
                      Update. I ran out to where the Roadie was tonight and planned to bypass/replace the roll over valve. I took off the fuel pump/filter cover and it wasn't there. At least not that I could see. I took off the left and rear covers beneath the seat and again, couldn't find the valve. So, I took off the air filter hsg again and looked all around behind the carb and between the cylinders. Still nothing. So, I put it back together and started it up. No problem whatsoever. I was nervous but, drove it about 20 miles back to my office where I store it. Again, no problems. In fact, it seemed to be running better. Maybe a little more pep and it idled down like it should. Yesterday, the idle seemed to stay high. I kept checking the choke at intersections and almost grabbed the idle knob a couple times.

                      When I turned the bike off, no puking. I have no idea what happened yesterday or if it will happen again but, the Roadie ran like a champ as it has for the past 7 yrs or so. It's a 2005 and I bought it with 11K miles on it in mint condition. Until last night, I've never had a problem but, I'm pretty diligent about maintenance. I've had a seriously busy year so, it barely ran this summer. Maybe it just needed a little exercise.

                      Thanks again to everyone. If it happens again, I'll know where to start. I would still like to know where the roll over valve is on a '05 Midnight Silverado.

                      Comment


                      • #14
                        It’s behind the left side cover, on the frame downtube below the battery. If somebody else didn’t remove it, it’s still there. Did you locate the tank vent line in that area? If you look under the bike in that area, you’ll see the end of the vent line hanging under the bike. Back track from there.
                        Its probably half grey and half white. 1/2 inch tall, and about as big around as a quarter. IIRC
                        If you still can’t find it, remove the tank. Trace the tank vent line from the elbow on the front upper right corner of the tank, until you find it.

                        Comment


                        • #15
                          You should never let your bike sit and idle for 15 minutes, especially with temperatures above 80 degrees. No wonder it puked. If you just have to, then put a fan blowing on the cylinders.





                          Comment


                          • SKWEARpeg
                            SKWEARpeg commented
                            Editing a comment
                            ..because, it is air cooled after all. If the bike isn’t moving, it becomes a furnace.

                        • #16
                          Originally posted by SKWEARpeg View Post
                          Pull the left side cover. The rollover valve is a little plastic gizmo zip tied to the frame down tube below the battery. If you were to trace the tank vent line from the tank, you’ll end up there. You can buy a small plastic connector with a hose barb on each end, remove the valve and reconnect the two hose ends with the connector.

                          Yeah, I agree. The bike flooded and that’s what caused it to die.
                          It should start and run fine now.
                          My gas gauge responds when powering up and then goes to E and stays there while the yellow light flashes 8 times. If I remove the roll-over valve could that fix this issue? Also if I decide to just live with the non working gauge is there a wa to stop the yellow light from flashing?

                          Comment


                          • #17
                            Thanks all. OK SKWEARpeg, I'll dig around in there again. I agree, it has to be there. I bought a couple of metal straight couplings in two different sizes to replace the valve with. The auto parts store only had those or vacuum line connectors. I suppose the vacuum line connectors are fine given they would only see gas if I had much bigger problems.

                            Agreed letting the bike idle is not a great idea. I had to jump it to get it started and do not have access to my charger right now. Sold my house and am building a new one so, everything is in storage. I was afraid the battery wouldn't be charged enough and didn't plan on being in the store so long. Besides being like 85 degrees, there wasn't a drop of breeze. I was riding it pretty hard right before that as well. Lesson learned.

                            Comment


                            • #18
                              Originally posted by NCB View Post

                              My gas gauge responds when powering up and then goes to E and stays there while the yellow light flashes 8 times. If I remove the roll-over valve could that fix this issue? Also if I decide to just live with the non working gauge is there a wa to stop the yellow light from flashing?
                              No. The rollover valve is all about tank venting, and nothing about flashing lights. I suspect your gas gauge is kaput. You can install a new one, and probably be just fine.
                              The flashing light, is actually a trouble code. It’s telling you what’s broke.

                              Comment


                              • #19
                                So, I dug around behind the left cover again and found the roll over valve. It was behind a bunch of wires that are bundled pretty tightly. It looks like a small in-line fuel filter. I didn't replace it just yet. I'm waiting for another nice day (although the high today is going to be 42) and I'll take it out again. I need to burn off the old fuel and refill with some stabil for the long dormant season. Uhhhggg... It has come too soon. It always does.

                                Thanks to everyone for all the help. You guys are great.

                                Comment

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