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  • Bikerron
    replied
    TPS

    https://wayback.archive-it.org/10073...nt/view/64/96/

    Leave a comment:


  • Jike
    replied
    Are you sure that is the correct link for the TPS check Doc? It's not taking me to the article.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    replied
    Has anyone tried the TPS check yet? it sounds plausible. Here's the how to article if anyone is interested:

    Leave a comment:


  • midnitmike
    commented on 's reply
    One of his biggest complaints was the variation in idle speed throughout the temperature range. Set the idle....get out on the freeway and when you pull off for fuel or a rest stop it's cranking at 2000 rpm. Reset the idle and the next time you pull up to a stop it dies. It NEVER stayed where he set it so he was constantly messing with it...now he just rides.

  • Flashback
    commented on 's reply
    You make a good point, the tps is very affected by temp............

  • midnitmike
    replied
    I might have missed it, but I didn't see anyone mentions the TPS as a possible source of an erratic idle. I bring this up because a few weeks ago my brother was complaining of a constantly changing idle speed that he had been dealing with for several years. He had checked everything he could think of until I suggested testing the TPS and get a reading on it. Wouldn't you know his TPS was sitting at 900...no big deal right? Resetting the TPS to between 650 and 700...it's kinda tricky to dial it into a specific number, but close is good and all of a sudden the idle stays exactly where you set it. He's dealt with this issue for years and was so frustrated that he's sworn he would sell the bike a dozen times over. Now that the idle is fixed it's like a new bike and he's one happy dude.

    Go through all the normal check list items when you've got an erratic idle, but do yourself a favor and check the resistance of your TPS to make sure it's within limits...you might be just as surprised as my brother.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spydr
    commented on 's reply
    Mine does that also. Pretty sure it's normal.
    Even when I had the idle set low for a nice lope, it still would idle very high after a while at highway speed.

  • boomerA
    replied
    Re: wandering idle...my '07 R* midnight has a normal sounding idle after warmup, but after coming off the highway, the idle is a lot faster. The temptation to reduce the idle in those instances is almost unbearable. Normal or something wrong ?

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron Caudill
    replied
    Hey folks, I'm back from what was an eternity. I have not yet worked on the old R* and may start later this week. As I said, I got another girl in the garage. I am ordering all original equipment for the carb and going back the way it was along with a new ENRICHER and an intake gasket. Oh, also going to replace the decompression solenoid. It may be several more weeks before I get it all done. No big deal. Taxes aren't due until July.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nicon24
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • Nicon24
    replied
    Ok guys update found a small crack (hair line) on the Coasting Enricher ???? I think this maybe the problem. When the bike is up and running at temp it could be giving me a vac leak. About a 1cm long (sorry 5 to 6 mm) could this be the problem guys.
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Gyp/critter
    replied
    I had a wandering idle issue after working on carb the last go around. After fighting idle changes at every other stop light for a couple days , i tore back into it only to find i had forgot the idle screw tension spring . This was my issue, but its a easy check just to eliminate the possibility that is was overlooked.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nicon24
    replied
    thanks for the options will test the carb heater and follow scottw's advice.

    Leave a comment:


  • scottw
    replied
    1st of all old school carb'd v-twin air cooled motors like the R* has dont have near the control over idle speed (esp carb'd with hvy 20w-50 oil even in warmer temps cold) in the 1st 15-20+ mins required for the motor and oil to get close to or up to full op temp then todays efi controlled motors do so keep that in mind.

    If your older R* doesnt have any other issues affecting idle speed like vacuum leak issues on intake manifold,dirty aircleaner,older plugs,dirty fuel filter (should have been changed when carb was rblt) then do this and you should be good to go.

    * Ride the bike 15-20 mins to ensure its up to full op temp.

    * Now (with air cleaner assembly still on motor to dont remove it) adjust idle speed to a min of 900-950rpm which is yami's rec idle speed.
    But i found 950-1k rpm to be best idle rpm for the carb'd R*'s i have worked on because it helps reduce the amount of spit/pop back thru carb when coming off idle which is comon with lrg dist old school carb'd v-twins esp when idle is too low.

    Properly adj accell pump to shot fuel as soon as throttle plate in carb begines to move also helps reduce spit/pop back thru carb coming off idle & or when bliping throttle along with the bit higher 950-1k idle rpm i rec too.

    * Now adjust idle mixture to obtain the best smoothest stable idle speed you can.

    * Lastly reset idle speed to 900-950rpm and your good to go.

    Again,dont pay much attention to idle rpm & expect it to be pretty stable for the 1st 15mins of run time in warmer temp (20-25mins in cooler temp) too due to reasons i stated above earlier in this post and you will find that when the motor & oil are up to full op temp 15-20mins riding post cold startup that the idle will be pretty darn stable most of the time even on your carb'd R* when carb is setup/adj properly and there are no other issues with vacuum leaks etc as already stated above.

    If you follow/do exactly what i rec above i'd very surprised if your R* doesnt maintain a decent stable idle when the motor & oil are to full op temp post 15-20mins of riding time & ignoring idle speed variation from cold start till the motor & oil are both up to full op temp which you need to do because last time, " your R* isnt efi controlled " that by design has less idle variation over the motors entire operation range temp wise vs an old school carb'd motor.

    Good luck.

    Scott

    Leave a comment:


  • Duke
    replied
    Have you checked the carb heater to see if it is working? The carb heater works when the bike is cold to help atomizes fuel thru the idle mixture ports.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nicon24
    replied
    I have a problem when I set the hot idle to 900rpm its fine for a few mins but then drops down to 600 and up to 1100. The pump died a few years ago and was setup for pumpless and was running good. I did a service last week plugs oil and a clean out of the carb and it was running fine until yesterday. Bike started fine I was having a smoke before leaving when the idle started to wander.

    Leave a comment:


  • SKWEARpeg
    commented on 's reply
    Please dear, don’t let the children pit us against each other like this. They’ll end up in jail, or worse.

  • texasscott1
    commented on 's reply
    Choke, Enricher - choke is just easier to say. Anyway, has anyone noticed that the choke, enricher knob has the international symbol for choke printed on it?

  • Doc_V
    replied
    Sounds like a leak somewhere.

    Some things to consider: make sure the intake boot on the carb is seated properly and not over tightened. Some people have success with spraying starter fluid around the intake manifold to see if the RPMs climb. [But it's doesn't always work. I didn't work for me even though I had a leak.]
    - Are you running a stock air box with that K&N? If not, what do you have?
    - Did you check the exhaust nuts? Are they too loose or too *tight*?
    - Did you bend the exhaust flanges from over tightening? [very common]
    - Are the exhaust seals in good shape?
    - How did you seal the vacuum port on the intake manifold when you removed the AIS?? [Vacuum plugs dry out and crack due to the heat of the motor.] <- My bet is on this one.
    - Is your intake manifold cracked *all* the way through? [Surface cracks are normal, but the manifold is so thick, they don't always go *all* the way through. Shine a light inside the manifold to find out.]
    - Has the intake manifold *ever* been removed? [If not, DON"T! ... Unless it's cracked all the way through obviously.]
    - Did you replace the float needle when you went pumpless? [Is that what the "3.0 max grizzly needle seat assembly" is for? I've never gone pumpless.]
    - What is the fuel level set at in the float bowl?
    - What is your PMS set at?

    Hang in there, I know it can be frustrating, been there myself. But with everyone here we'll figure it out... it can be only so many things, just work your way down the list, starting with the easiest, and cross them off... and never assume something is OK because you "already did that'. I spent TWO YEARS chasing a very similar problem because of "I already did that".
    Last edited by Doc_V; 10-07-2018, 07:43 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bikerron
    replied
    In an age of fuel injected engines where all you do is hit the starter, and go, it’s hard to describe proper starting etiquette on a carbed bike that is pretty sensitive to adjustments. EPA mandates left carb tuning to the designers with little room for error when the end user got the hammer and pry bar out to tinker with it thinking there’s room for improvement. Even small engine carb tuning is history. Gone are the days of broad mixture results simply by turning a mixture screw. No main jet adjustable needle or an idle mix screw to be found today. No choke either. Just a primer bulb to flood the cylinder with enough fuel to fire it off.

    So, here we are. Either FI, or older EPA carbed engines that demand strict attention to settings that must be adhered to, especially if it’s not in ones forte to reach a desired setting from experience on the first shot.

    Leave a comment:

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