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  • Float level article in the Tech Articles section.

    With the recent thread about going pumpless, I looked at the Tech Article for setting the float level, .........it will be asked numerous times, and it is best if everyone is on the same page.

    https://www.roadstarclinic.com/artic...oat-bowl-level

    It is showing the very early 1 to 2mm below the carb to float bowl mating surface as being correct. That setting hasn't been correct for at least 16 years. The proper setting for all years of Roadstars regardless of of the bikes being 1600 or 1700, is 4 to 5mm above the carb to bowl mating surface. This is checked on the manifold side of the carb, not the aircleaner side. It is checked when the bike is upright, and not leaning on the side stand.

    The article does include a comment about the difference in elevation between the manifold and aircleaner sides of the carbs when mounted on the bike.

    Would it be possible to have the correct setting referenced in the article? Maybe leave the article as is, and insert the correct spec in red so it is clear and avoids conflict.

    The 4 to 5mm above the mating surface for all bikes, was something Texasscott brought to the old Forums attention, years ago. Scott was perusing old tech updates(circa 2000-2001ish) sent to the Yamaha dealership he worked at and noticed it.

    Note* This isn't just incase somebody wants to go pumpless. The 4 to 5mm above spec, is correct for bikes with pumps also. All bikes, whether they are 1600 or 1700 motors, are the same.

    .....also Note*worthy.

    There is a very good chance the float level on the bike is fine as it is currently. Anyone messing with jets, or replacing the float valve(needle and seat), either maintaining the OEM needle and seat, or if going pumpless and switching to the gravity flow Grizzly needle and seat( clipped from the tech article........It is now recommended to use the 3.0 mm float valve, part # - 2C6-14190-30-00, that is used on the 2002-2008 660 Yamaha Grizzly), should be careful when replacing their respective float valves, and not mangle the tab and or arms on the float itself.

    When replacing the bowl, make sure both orings are in place on the bowl flange. One is shaped like the bowl flange, and the other is the small oring that goes around the accelerator pump supply passage hole. I hold the carb right side up, and manually and 'gently' manipulate the float with my finger, to make sure the needle moves easily in and out of the seat. Still holding the carb upright, I bring the bowl up under it and set it in place. This allows me to verify both orings are present and accounted for. Once the bowl is in place, I hold it in place and invert the carb, being careful to keep it where it needs to be until the screws are in place.

    It is simply a good idea to double check ones work when messing in the bowl. Double checking that the float level is still correct should be part of the reassembly process. It is great for peace of mind. 4 to 5mm, is about even with the top of the casting where the bowl screw threads into the carb on the manifold side.

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