'03 1600 carb help

[Younggun85]

I recently went pumpless and installed a conical air filter on my roadie. The intake has been ported and it has a set of Baron's Too Nasty exhaust. Bike was running a 190 main jet with a 37.5 pilot and ran decent with the airbox intact with a fuel leak... So I replaced the O-ring gasket on the float side of the carb and put in the 3mm Grizzly needle and seat for the pumpless conversion. The only change, other than a set of fresh plugs was to add the conical filter but for the life of me I cannot get it to do anything other than fall on its face and die if I try to blip the throttle. I can slowly build rpms, but can't snap the right grip it just dies. Not sure if I need to fatten up the mixture with a larger main or if I even have things correct needle for the different air filter. If I have the wrong needle in the carb, for example I keep reading about the profile of the Baron's needle vs the factory, would this prevent me from being able to run the bike without it's airbox? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Shores]

The carb guys will talk about your jet size. These engines don't like to be blipped even when they are tuned precisely, they are not a Harley.

[Mr. Miyagi]

From Texarkana, in the Arklatex.

[Lug Nut]

190 is wrong....out a Mikuni 167.5 main jet in it...are you running the stock needle or Barons adjustable needle?

Is your PMS 2.5 turns out?

190 DYNOJET jet is equivalent to 177.5 Mikuni and waaaaayyy too rich

[davej]

The whole thing comes down to what needle you have. I would suggest buying a Barrons jet kit and not guess at mixing and matching unknown brands of carb parts to try to make it work. Also trying to run without the airbox it is unlikely to run much past an idle.

[Younggun85]

So the needle that came in my carb rebuild kit seems to share the profile of the Baron's one. I installed it on the 4th clip, couldn't find a smaller jet than the 190. I have a 190,195 and a 200 that came with a 6 Sigma jet kit that was ordered from eBay. So I get it together, bike fires, idles and revs at a stand as it should. Shows signs of being rich blowing small puffs of black smoke when I'd pin the throttle.
I took it out for a quick ride and it started to stumble at any throttle unless it was pinned. Again this is with a conical air filter for like a cold air intake. It has me baffled that it acts happy when it's not moving but runs like absolute KaKa when it's under load. Any I put would be helpful PMS is backed out 2.5 turns

[Shotround]

needle from first post looks more like the oem than barons needle. barons needle is thinner as it tapers down, for lack of a better description. thus with a 190 main, way too rich. plugs probably black from running rich.

curious if charring on needle and slide is from backfire and before or after servicing the carb.

[Younggun85]

The needle in the picture is OEM, I looked closer at the needle included in my rebuild kit (not pictured) and it tapers like the Baron's needle to a more defined point. Planning to buy an assortment of main jets for the carb to cover everything from like 140-215 I know I need to be looking more in the area of 170-175.

[davej]

make sure you buy Mikuni brand jets. If you buy some sort of off brand jet you won't get much help here. Different brands have different numbering systems for the fuel flow. about everything advice wise here will be based on Mikuni jets

[Shotround]

assuming its similar to the barons needle. save your money and narrow it down to 162-175. maybe just one above and below. unless its to get over the shipping charge thing.

washer and spacer under the clip on the needle? spring and the retainer thing holding it in place?

[Younggun85]

I reused the washer, spacer, clip, spring and retainer as they were on the factory needle. I put the clip on the 4th notch of the new needle. I appreciate the narrow down on main jets, it's riding season here in NE Oklahoma and seeing it sit under the carport is killing me.

[Younggun85]

Well, considering Minuni main jets are like $10 a piece after shipping... I have a 167.5 coming. If it's a hair rich I'll live as long as it runs like it's supposed to. I'm about 99% sure there isn't enough done to the bike for it to lean out on a jet that size. Because all that's done are the exhaust, a ported intake and the conical filter.

[Younggun85]

Finally diagnosed outside of the carb, no spark on the Blogs plug, replaced plug still no spark, gonna snag a pair of new coils next payday and hopefully resolve my issue.

[Shotround]

i discovered that the wires can be pulled out of the plug boot. did you check if its fully seated?

[Younggun85]

That was not the issue, I replaced both coils and still have no spark on the front left plug... Glad I didn't throw away the factory coils. So I guess now I'm looking for a bad connection or wire

[Debevec]

I chased a no fire issue once for a guy that said he had replaced coils/plugs.. It was simply a bad plug wire.

[Ratl]

I won’t say I’m one of the carb guys, just that my ‘05 came jetted way too rich from the factory.

You’re probably bogging down because it’s too rich and if you don’t make changes soon, you will end up with what is referred to as SVS (Sticky Valve Syndrome). Some of the changes you’ve made, better air intake and exhaust, will exacerbate the problem. Check your plugs, if they are black with fouling or wet with fuel when you pull them, you’ll need to clean them up really good or better yet, just replace them.

I recommend that once you decide on a brand of jets, then research the recommended settings for that brand on our bikes and make those changes as a starting point.

If you have already caused fouling in your engine, that Carbon build up will start to cause running issues. Once you get her running, you can research the SVS cure, using Seafoam to clean the fouling out of your system, here at the RSC site.

Ratl.