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  • Slow acceleration above 70mph

    Hi guys, I have an 06 R* that moves pretty slow from 70 to 80. It creeps up but it seems pretty lean. I ordered the baron jet kit and it currently has the stock air cleaner. I have vance and hines longshots with quiet baffles in it. My front cylinder plugs show a little leaner than my back ones.

    Would the slow acceleration after 70 be caused by the float height needing adjusted? I dont want to pull the carb off until the jet kit comes in. I would say it takes between 3 and 4 seconds to get from 70 to 80. Maybe this is normal? Low end power is great. Thanks all.

  • #2
    Is the clutch slipping?

    Comment


    • #3
      Runs out of steam up top.... Get carb apart and clean... Check float level... Jet properly and get an open air filter... All of that will help a lot.

      If clutch slipping then gotta fix that too!!! Does the bike Rev but not go forward very much?
      LET'S RIDE

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      • #4
        Unless you are the original owner and know for a fact that the carb jetting and needle are stock it is impossible to say what is wrong. Don't touch the float, That is where people mess up the carb. I'm sure your issue has nothing to do with the float level. About the best we can do is to guild you the the rejet process with the correct jetting when the Barons kit comes in and go from there. If you are gonna use a Barons Kit you made a good choice but you will need to purchase a #40 pilot jet that does not come in the kit and is needed if you are gonna do anything with the air filter. Modification of the stock airbox is at least a minimum modification the you should consider. We can walk you thru that also.

        Comment


        • #5
          I considered clutch but it doesnt feel like a clutch issue. It pulls hard down low and it only has 11,000 miles. I think Im going to pull the carb off tonight just to establish a base line. I had a 2003 R* years ago and I did the air box mod and it loved it. I think I will do that tonight as well.

          Where do I order the #40 jet kit from? I remember seeing someone talk about the website on an older post but I cant remember.

          Comment


        • #6
          Ok number 40 ordered. Thanks for the link. I ran home on my lunch and pulled the carb. Main jet is a 175. Seems a bit small. I thought factory was larger?

          Comment


          • #7
            The float level was perfectly level with the carb.

            Comment


            • davej
              davej commented
              Editing a comment
              leave it right there

          • #8
            if everything is stock including the non adjustable needle a 175 main jet is a bit small. OEM on a 1700 is a 182.5 and a 35 pilot.

            Comment


            • #9
              The clutch is more likely to slip in 4th and 5th gear than in first, second or third.

              Comment


              • #10
                I didnt know about the slipping in higher gears. Thats good to know. I'm going ro have to pull the needle to see if its stock

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                • #11
                  Could the cluth start slipping at such low miles? Or could it ba improper adjustment?

                  Also someone has clearly been into the carb. The pms plug has been removed.

                  Comment


                  • #12
                    Originally posted by Cheapamanche View Post
                    I didnt know about the slipping in higher gears. Thats good to know. I'm going ro have to pull the needle to see if its stock
                    It's the physics of gear ratios. As lower gear is easier on the engine and the clutch, a higher gear is harder on the engine and the clutch.

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                    • #13
                      Ok good to know. I took a picture of the front right spark plug. To me this looks lean. If its not lean then could it be starving for air at the higher rpm? I plan to replace the air cleaner housing soon so I decided to modify the housing to let in more air.

                      Let me know guys if you see anything interesting. Click image for larger version

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                      • Shores
                        Shores commented
                        Editing a comment
                        You need to decide on the intake and exhaust you want first before you reject. opening up the intake for more air is going to make you run leaner.

                    • #14
                      Good point. Looks like Ill just let things be until I order the air cleaner housing. Then I will jet the carb. If I still have issues after that I will look into the clutch.

                      Comment


                      • #15
                        What did the rear spark plug look like?

                        Comment


                        • #16
                          If you have a adjustable needle, then I would just raise the needle up 1 clip. That will give a little more fuel at top end, and if it needs more, then step up 1 jet size.
                          I had a problem as you described, and that worked for me.
                          As Dave has said, leave the float alone.

                          Comment


                          • #17
                            The rear spark plug was sooty. Definately richer than the front but not a whoke lot more. Not wet or anything. I should note that the plugs only have about 350 miles on them.

                            Comment


                            • #18
                              Usually when the rear plug is dark and the front is as white as the one in your pic, that is a good indication that you have a air leak on the front intake runner connection to the front head on the intake manifold. Intake manifold leaks at the head connections are very common. I recommend that when you remove the carb for the rejet that you also remove the intake manifold, flatten the surface where the oring sits by placing a pc of Emory cloth or wet/dry sandpaper on flat surface and sand the surface until all the green is removed and the surface is flat. Reinstall with a coating of permatex Hylomar (https://www.amazon.com/Valco-Cincinn.../dp/B00CFH9GZG) on the mating surface along with the oring. This will insure a good leak free connection at that connection.

                              Comment


                              • #19
                                Ok the hylonar has been ordered. I sprayed starter fluid around the ibtake while it was running and no change in rpm. I might as well pull it though when I jet it. Thanks you guys for the help. In also looking into a barnet clutch.

                                Comment


                                • #20
                                  PROBLEM SOLVED! I think

                                  Ok so I finally had some time to do some work on the bike. To summarize my rear cylinder was running rich and the front was running lean. I pulled the carb off and found out that I have a baron needle in it and a mikuni 175 jet which I thought was lean. I was able to verify that I did not have a leak around the intake manifold. Without over explaining I came to the conclusion that the previous owner probably had an aftermarket air cleaner on it so I pulled the pcv line out of the stock air cleaner housing and ran it into a pod filter. Closed the port to the air cleaner and opened the filter with 2, 1" holes to let it breath easier. I then took it for a 2 hour ride on Interstate 5 and hit the throttle hard the whole time. When I got home I shut it off immediately and as soon as it was cool enough pulled the plugs.
                                  The rear cylinder now matches the front and therevis a light tan color starting on both the plugs. Im not sure if it was because of rerouting the pvc or opening the air cleaner box that leveled out the cylinder but I'm very happy with it.
                                  Could the uneven cylinder fuel trims have been caused by the pvc or the choked off air filter? Thabkbyou all so much!

                                  Comment

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