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  • Accelerator tube clogged completely

    - Ok, I filed the tube until the clog was gone. Can't hurt it at this point.

    Is it possible to remove and replace the brass accelerator tube/injector? It isn't in the shop manual so it isn't looking good. The carburetor is in pretty bad shape overall so what is there to replace it? I am trying to get this thing running to sell it but maybe after as much time as I have in it, I will keep it. I have read this thread and nothing has helped. https://www.roadstarclinic.com/forum...e-tube-clogged

    - I had hoped I could slide it out with pliers - not.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Take the carb off . Yes I know it is a pain. Got to do it.
    The Accelerator pump tube sprays inwards to the inside of the carb. If the o ring is missing it will not work you can get a new o ring at ACE hardware for 25 cents. Not kidding.
    The Accelerator pump tube is not removale. Don't try it. You can get to the spray tube. Through the accellrerater pump bowl.
    Use some carb cleaner spray. Protect your eyes!
    ​​​​​

    Comment


    • #3
      Fishing wire ?

      Comment


      • #4
        I used a wire plucked from my hand wire brush.
        With enough beer you can do anything...D.Pate

        Comment


        • #5
          Tip cleaners for torches work great too....Ace

          Comment


          • #6
            I use either Berrymans or Gunk carb dip. Leave it in the bath overnight and it will break down any garbage that is in there. Then spray out with carb cleaner with the red nozzle on the can then rinse and blow out passages with air. I'm thinking about getting a Ultrasonic cleaner to do carbs. I buy and sell riding mowers and do a lot of cab work. Almost everyone I sell gets a carb cleaning. I do about 20 every year.

            Comment


            • #7
              I need to do this as well, trying to find some carb dip, many shops don’t carry it here, only the spray stuff...but I’ll get it for sure.

              Question..the throttle cable bracket/assembly has a plastic part, driving the accelaretor pump rod...I guess I should take that apart from the carb body before dipping it in..or can it handle the dip..?

              Comment


              • #8
                it can handle the dip

                Comment


                • Jokke75
                  Jokke75 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Thanks, Dave. I found a shop who sells ”Motorex” branded carb dip, they specifically say that ”all rubber and plastic parts need to be removed” but guess that mainly refers to inner/softer parts like o-rings, gaskets and membranes etc.

              • #9
                shops dont carry it anymore because it is so toxic.

                Comment


                • #10
                  Get Berrymans, I have been using that stuff since the 70's. If the dip is not available, use the spray. Spray it into a container that fits the part, drop the part in and let it soak.

                  2005 Silverado Midnight Star

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    I’m still struggling to get the small acc. pump nozzle cleared. I soaked it for many hours and got some guitar strings..just cannot get past the corner/ball in the built in tube from float bowl side.

                    Any tips how to continue and how easily you normally get past the corner..? I’m think of letting it soak for 1-2 days if nothing helps and then see if something happens..removing the nozzle and re-attaching with epoxy is something I really don’t even want to think..

                    Comment


                    • davej
                      davej commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I've removed 1 before for cleaning and it really wasn't that big of a deal. If it is clogged with a calcium type garbage I wonder if soaking it in something like CLR would help break down the clog. Then blow it out in reverse flow with air pressure.

                  • #12
                    The best chance of cleaning it is with the dips mentioned (some are not compatible with plastic or rubber) soaking it longer, and then cleaning it in an Ultrasonic bath, and blowing out with air.
                    https://www.harborfreight.com/25-lit...ner-63256.html

                    The heated ones are better, but even baths without heat, the vibrations creates heat which should help clean out passages. On a recent carb rebuild, I saw how bad brass and aluminum can corrode. I bought some old carbs to try and salvage the gunk'd up jets and found some of them were severely corroded/pitted. The only way I got the really bad ones cleared was with torch tip cleaners and/or small #60-80 drills bits. You if you can't clear out whatever is blocking tube, you may need to consider trying to replace it. I had some brass overflow tubes that were cracked in the Honda carb bowls that I was going to try to replace. A Honda 40 year mechanic said the tubes are pressed in with some type of adhesive that was fuel resistant. He told me what it was but I don't remember. It ended up I didn't try replacing the tubes because I used nail polish to seal crack (another tip from Honda expert) after testing. You can buy brass tubes with different od's from Hobby Lobby.
                    https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Ho...ing/p/80991012


                    Comment


                    • #13
                      I have also used aluminum wheel cleaner which is an acid to clean corroded parts. Muriatic acid is another good acid cleaner.

                      Comment


                      • #14
                        Thanks, guys, for all the tips. I will continue and first try a looong soak for 24hrs or something.

                        Dave, any tips how to remove the tube if it comes down to that?

                        Comment


                        • #15
                          I cradled the end of the tube into the recess side end of a small pair of side cutter pliers, Then tapped the side of the pliers with a hammer and it popped right out. when you reinstall it just make sure it is pointing in the right direction to spray into the carb throat towards the floor of the carb.then reseal with a fuel resistant epoxy or rtv to hold it in place

                          Comment


                          • Jokke75
                            Jokke75 commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Great idea, you guys are awesome, nothing beats hands on insight and experience. I could have thought how to try for hours and not come up with this, nice clean/even press and no twisting needed.

                        • #16
                          Thanks again for all the help and tips. Patience was rewarded this time around and I got the totally clogged acc. pump nozzle open. Mix of heavy duty soaking, ultrasonic washer, small amount of acetone, normal spray stuff, guitar strings, compressed air..all the bells and whistles....

                          Rest of the new parts/jets arrived in the mean time so now it’s time to put the carb back together and see how everything works.

                          Comment


                          • Duke
                            Duke commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Good to hear you have it clear.

                        • #17
                          Glad to hear you got it sorted out!
                          With enough beer you can do anything...D.Pate

                          Comment


                          • #18
                            You must have got it right after I sent the pic of how to remove it. Glad to hear you got it. My guess is the acetone got it. Muriatic acid would have probably also worked.

                            Comment


                            • #19
                              Thanks Dave, I was really close in trying to remove it based on your advice but managed to get it open while still attached. Now the question is of course ”how open” it actually is..so still thinking / second guessing if I should remove it but I’ll do some flow testing first.

                              Comment


                              • davej
                                davej commented
                                Editing a comment
                                just put the fuel bowl back on with fuel or other liquid in it and push the plunger to see how good the squirt is. push it fast and hard then slow and steady. you should get a solid stream both ways. any sporadic stream when pushing slowly indicates a possible issue.

                            • #20
                              i chased a metal manufacturer shaving in an evinrude carb passage for over a decade, its important to blow in both directions also. i would ride WOT, and at boat ramp, would not idle, try to park a boat that way.

                              Comment


                              • davej
                                davej commented
                                Editing a comment
                                I agree, blowing thru with compressed air in reverse direction is very important and helpful to remove trash. .

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