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'99 1600 Hesitates When Throttle Blipped

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  • '99 1600 Hesitates When Throttle Blipped

    Hey guys. Been doing some much need carb work and was wondering if anyone would have any suggestions as to why I'm seeing a lot of throttle hesitation when I blip it quickly. I recently cleaned and rejetted the carb to the specs from here on the forum. Baron's needle on 4th clip, 167.5 main, 37.5 pilot, and the Baron's PMS. Bike starts great and pulls hard when warmed up, but I think I'm having some trouble dialing in the PMS so that when I blip the throttle it revs smoothly. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. If I turn the throttle to fast sometimes it even kills the bike all together. I started at 2 1/2 turns out on the PMS and was dealing with a lot of hesitation and deceleration popping so I went as far out as 3 1/2 turns so far. I have double and triple checked for air leaks in the intake and exhaust. Intake was removed sealed and ported, and the exhaust gaskets were replaced and torqued down evenly to specs. I did turn the accelerator pump out half a turn to get a nice smooth stream of fuel from the start of throttle on. Bike has a bubs shorty exhaust with cut baffles and Baron's BAK. I'm at the point that I'm just about to ride it and deal with it. I had originally tore everything about to try and find and issue with decel popping after removing the AIS. Any help would be much appreciated!

  • #2
    it's a vacuum slide carb. vacuum slide carbs don't like quick blipping.

    Comment


    • #3
      Also, make sure your idle is at 900 rpm, no less.

      Comment


      • #4
        As Dave said... No quick blipping... Have you checked accelerator pump operation? Enricher cover (plastic round piece side of carb) for cracks?
        LET'S RIDE

        Comment


        • #5
          Assuming all your settings are right, If you rev the engine, then let off,and then quickly rev it, and that's when it stumbles, you might check the exceleratior plunger spring tension. The spring that's under the plunger, pushing the plunger up to draw in fuel. If the tension is good, then try lifting the needle 1 klick, notch.
          OR- if you really want to get into it, open up two holes in the bottom of the emulsion tube. About .002" to .003" should do it.

          Comment


          • davej
            davej commented
            Editing a comment
            according to his profile he is already in the 4th groove with a Barons needle.

          • Duke
            Duke commented
            Editing a comment
            Thanks Dave.

        • #6
          I have a metal enricher cover so no cracks there and I put a new diaphragm in when I rebuilt the carb. The accelerator pump was pulled spring checked lubed and flow adjusted. Needle is on the fourth groove, changed to the barons needle from a dyno jet...the bike just likes to stumble maybe half the time when I try and goose it good from an idle. I was debating whether to try a #40 pilot jet due to the short exhaust and air filter set up. I had torque cones in the exhuast before but took them out because I didn't feel they did anything and didn't like the seal on the header. The barons pms screw is at 3 1/2 didnt so I feel like I'm getting at the end of the adjustment there....my buddys getting sick of hearing about it and told me to just ride it

          Comment


          • Duke
            Duke commented
            Editing a comment
            I've been running a modified slide that opens up faster than stock with out any hesitation. My set up is the same as yours, but have slightly heavier plunger springs and modified the emulsion tube. If your float level is good, try the 40 pilot.

        • #7
          How are you setting pms?


          After turning the PMS screw out and the bike warmed up idling, use a tachometer, or listening very closely while turning the PMS screw in or out to find the highest idle. After you find the highest idle, turn the PMS screw out 1/8 to 1/4 turns. Your done.

          If you have to turn the PMS screw out more than 3 1/2 turns, then change the pilot jet to richer pilot.
          LET'S RIDE

          Comment


          • #8
            I was setting it by listening for the idle drop and then going back out till it began to rise again....anyone here ever experienced issues with the accelerator pump working intermittently? I went and checked it today and I was't seeing any flow from the spout...pulled the carb checked all the passage ways with air, all seemed clear, but it back together no flow from the pump again...could it take time for the accelerator to "prime" per say?

            Comment


            • #9
              it sounds like a new accelerator pump rod set is gonna be the answer. that will take care of a poor intermittent acc pump as long as the passages are open and not partially blocked

              Comment


              • #10
                Its weird I cleaned everything out again...i got a spray of carb cleaner through the top out of the tube in the throat and a clean spray through the bottom but u put it together and fill it with fuel and it gets hard like there's fuel but won't spray...do have a new one on order just hoping that the problem is not in the body of the carb...used a parts unlimited rebuild kit hoping its not an oring issue?

                Comment


                • #11
                  Found the problem...o ring from rebuild kit too thick and squishes closed when float bowl tightened down...won't by anything but yamaha now...cleaned and replaced with the old o ring and squirts perfect sorry guys thanks for all the advice....now I can get back into trying to dial in the pms screw

                  Comment


                  • davej
                    davej commented
                    Editing a comment
                    that is a good find.

                • #12
                  I also did the same. The oring in my aftermarket kit just didn't look right so I used the old acc pump oring.
                  With enough beer you can do anything...D.Pate

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