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  • HELP!!! Random Stalling While Riding

    Ok, so this has happened a couple times now while out riding and it's driving me nuts. First, 2001 Midnight XV1600, 41k miles, stage 2 kit, straight pipes and aftermarket carb (I think) and from what I can tell the fuel pump has been relocated under the seat. Full tank of 87 gas with about 8oz of seafoam. It was about 90 degrees out and riding 2 up. After cruising country roads for about 50 miles the bike sputters and shuts off. I pull in the clutch and release it starting it back up and no further issues the remaining 3 miles home. The bike will run fine, no backfiring when downshifting, but randomly it will sputter like it's out of gas and then it'll be ok. I also notice this happens more often the emptier the gas tank it, usually after using 2 gallons. Any advice or things I should try? I'd greatly appreciate any help!

  • #2
    Sound like maybe the tank vent is plugged. Lift the speedo unit up and take the little rubber hose off the tank nipple and go for a ride to see if that corrects it. If it does there is a rollover valve on the other end of the hose that is probably plugged.

    Comment


    • #3
      I've also sent the metal tube vent on/in the tank be plugged up. Sportsters are notorious for doing this.

      Comment


      • #4
        Last night I removed the vent hose from the top of the tank and also vented the gas cap. Took it out for a ride (riding 2 up, around 90 degrees out, fresh tank of 87) and all was good for about 8 miles. Came to a stop sign and as I was accelerating it started to sputter and sounded like it was going to die. I worked the throttle a little and everything was ok. Then about 2 miles after that happened I came to another stop sign, started to accelerate and it was sputtering again, but this time much worse, couldn't accelerate. Coasted into a parking lot and tried working the throttle again with no luck. It backfired and sputtered when I would give it gas, but idled somewhat ok. I shut the bike off for about 5 minutes, fired it up and rode 300 feet to our destination. After a couple hours we left for our 4 mile ride home without any further problems.

        I'm thinking about bypassing the fuel pump and going straight gravity fed to see if the problem continues....hopefully it doesn't. I'll also pull my plugs while I have to tank off to see how they are looking and double check the gaps. Any other advice??

        Comment


        • #5
          This is a hard one since it seems to be heat related. One thing comes to mind that maybe the crank sensor, but usually it either works or doesn't work. Heat effecting a dirty fuel filter, or the (ecu) control box?
          I'm still trying to put my head around this problem.

          I once had a piece of plastic in my VW Beetle fuel tank that took me over six months to figure out. After removing the fuel tank twice, I finally found the problem.

          Comment


          • scartozi
            scartozi commented
            Editing a comment
            The fuel pump was relocated under the seat by the previous owner and I haven't seen an in-line fuel filter anywhere. I do agree that it seems to happen more when it's hot and humid out riding 2 up.

        • #6
          It will not hurt to try going pumpless.

          Comment


          • scartozi
            scartozi commented
            Editing a comment
            I agree 100%. I'm working through the cheapest options first and I really hope that by taking the fuel pump out of the equation will do the trick. If it still does it after that then I'm back to scratching my head. I'll drain the tank and clean out any filters in the petcock and see what happens.

        • #7
          I had an intermittent problem like that. I chased it just like you are. Finally I decided to go pumpless, and to do so you have to change out the float valve and seat to the Grizzly 3.0. So when I got into the carb I found green, flaky corrosion around the float seat and I figured this was getting into the seat and other passages. I cleaned it out and stayed pumpless and haven't had a problem since. That was a year ago.
          It's not that life is so short, it's just that you're dead for so long.---unknown.

          Comment


          • scartozi
            scartozi commented
            Editing a comment
            That's great info, thanks! The "issue" I'm also having is I think the carb isn't stock, so I don't know if the float valve would be the same. The top of the carb says "Speedstar" on it and I'm not sure if that's just an upgraded stock carb or not.

        • #8
          Here is a pic of the top of the carb
          Click image for larger version

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          Comment


          • MikeyC
            MikeyC commented
            Editing a comment
            Hmmm, I'm thinking it looks a little different. Guys will chime in soon. somebody here knows about this.

        • #9
          That's a Mikuni HSR 42mm Speedstar carburetor. It wouldn't hurt to clean up the air and fuel ports, along with the jets.

          Comment


          • davej
            davej commented
            Editing a comment
            Duke look at the rubber air filter connection. WTF is up with that. sure looks like it squishes down to a small size and offset or something funny. It isn't his problem causing the stalling but that can't be helping performance. I'm also wondering if it is not lack of fuel but maybe to much fuel and flooding out?

        • #10
          Yes, I see what you mean Dave.
          Maybe try to raise up the air filter to straighten the carb to air filter boot. It looks like the boot has a kink in it and could be causing a rich condition, like davej said.
          It might be possible that when the engine is heated up, the heated boot is collapsing a little more.

          Comment


          • davej
            davej commented
            Editing a comment
            It looks like with that kink it may be a 42mm carb but he is only getting about 22mm area of airflow. maybe remove the air filter and take it for a ride. it might be collapsing and shutting down or flooding from the boot.

        • #11
          Thanks guys for helping me identify what carb is on my bike! The air intake is a Kuryakyn Hypercharger, was on the bike when I bought it. It's been cleaned and lightly oiled.

          So this may open up a can of worms, but this what I've been thinking regarding the stalling problem I've been having.

          ALL of these symptoms happened AFTER changing the motor oil/filter. I'm not sure what oil is recommended with all the engine mods that my RS has. This was the first oil change I've done on the bike since purchasing it last June. After changing the oil using Amsoil 10w 40 I noticed more engine noise than before and also more heat on my right thigh while riding.

          - This always seems to happen when it's really hot and humid out, heat index in the mid ninety's and riding 2 up.
          - It would happen almost every time we would go riding after the oil change.
          - The engine has completely shut off while riding in high temps which makes me think maybe it was the fail-safe to keep from overheating?
          - This NEVER happened last year, or this year, while riding in high heat 2 up

          Last week I changed the oil/filter again but this time using Mobil 1 20w 50. We went on about a 20 mile ride, 2 up with a 104 heat index with no issues at all. I think it's too early to say for sure that it was something as simple as the oil.....but I hope it was that simple.

          After changing the oil for the 2nd time I found all the paperwork from the previous owner and the work that was done on the bike. One of the service invoices says the oil was changed and they used 20w 50. Gonna head out for a ride this evening and fingers crossed it doesn't happen again.

          Comment


          • #12
            Hope you used motorcycle specific oil and not standard car oil. Also, are you sure you put in just 4 quarts, no more, no less. There are two drain plugs, one for the engine and one for the oil tank. 20-50 is better for your climate, but 10-40 not likely your problem. The manual shows the temp ranges for various oils. Check it out. The engine will ship off of it reaches a critical temp, usually reached when just idling for 15-20 minutes, not riding. Tires inflated properly? How much you and passenger weigh total? Running too lean and hot?

            Comment


            • scartozi
              scartozi commented
              Editing a comment
              Shores. Yes, v-twin specific oil both times as recommended by people on this site. Both drain plugs pulled, filter changed and 4 quarts added.

              Brand new Shinko 777 HD tires, front 36 and 41 rear. I’m 6’-3” and 285, wife 5’-9” 160. Changed the plugs last year and the plugs looked good, not too rich and not too lean.

          • #13
            Have you upgraded the oil pump gear?

            Comment


            • scartozi
              scartozi commented
              Editing a comment
              I personally have not. There was a lot done to this bike before I bought it.

          • #14
            Originally posted by scartozi View Post
            I personally have not. There was a lot done to this bike before I bought it.
            if it hasn't been changed, it's just a matter of time before it breaks and you lose oil pressure.

            Comment


            • #15
              Here are the receipts for all the work that was done about 500 miles before I purchased the bike. Click image for larger version

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              • #16
                Click image for larger version

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ID:	102687 This is the oldest receipt

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                • Duke
                  Duke commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I didn't know Isky was making cams for our bike. I use to use performance
                  Isky cams in V-8 engines, and they were good cams.

                • davej
                  davej commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Duke that work order was back in 2010. There was a lot of parts available back then. As far as I know PR is the only game in town now for performance parts. I found another guy that does still hand head porting (Pro 1 Racing heads) but I had to buy the valves from PR. Most porting shops only want to work on HD heads.

              • #17
                Ok, so maybe I was jumping the gun about the oil being the issue, seemed like a good idea at the time but happened again last night. These kind of problems never seem to be easy to pinpoint, unfortunately. Nevertheless, I think the bike is running better with the 20W-50. Here’s what happened during my ride last night.

                Perfect riding weather yesterday evening, about 85 degrees and riding 2 up. We went on about a 45 mile ride without any issues whatsoever, rode the bike nice and easy. Needless to say I was happy about that and decided to get a little throttle happy as we approached our neighborhood. Opened it up rapping though the gears until I hit about 75mph, rolled off the throttle and began braking to turn into the neighborhood. As I made the right hand turn and straightened it out it sputtered momentarily. I putted through the neighborhood in 2nd for about 1/4mile and then as I turned right to go down our street the bike completely shut off, luckily only 6 houses away. I tried to start it again but it just turned over, didn’t seem to be getting any gas, certainly wasn’t flooded. Then I hit the start button while turning the throttle (about 3 times) and after that it started up and rode home.

                Do you think that the carb could have been fuel starved and the fuel pump couldn’t keep up?

                I plan on going straight gravity fed in the next couple days. Just running a fuel line straight to the carb and see what happens. Since I have the Mukini HSR42 carb I don’t know what other parts I would need to go pumpless like most of you have. Any ideas?


                Comment


                • #18
                  If you have a hsr carb it takes a different float valve for pumpless and pump. Also check float level. The pump should be able to keep up without a problem.

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