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    Hi all, newbe here. I'm looking at purchasing a beautiful metallic blue 2000 silverado with 14K,blinged out with chrome & accessories for $500!. It has a no start issue. The seller mentioned that he previously replaced the solenoid some months ago and it had fixed the same no start issue. Seller doesn't want it because it was a gift and it's taking up room in his garage & it having electrical issues..
    Honestly, I'm only familiar with crotch rockets and unfamiliar with the roadstar. I liked to get everyone's thoughts on the most efficient way to diagnosis the issue ? I guess its could be the solenoid again but It seems to me there might be an underlying issue if the solenoid is failing prematurely.? Since its cheap, I don't mind throwing parts at it if I decide to get it. Let me know what ya'll think, I appreciate any help/feedback

  • #2
    Chances are he bought a cheap Chinese starter relay from Ebay. Very few of the ebay relays work for any long period of time. Buy the bike and buy a oem starter relay and you will be good to go for a long,long time. A couple things you will want to check on the bike. First has the trans recall been done? 2nd has the oil pump drive gear been replaced? That bike will be good for a couple more hundred thousand miles with proper maintenance. I would also look at the date on the tires and change them if they are old. I would guess that they are only the 2nd set of tires installed on the bike and probably old.

    Comment


    • Megasquirter
      Megasquirter commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks , I'll be going to buy it later today, I'll ask but it sounds like an old friend gave him the bike that is currently in Military Service, he has had it less than a year, I doubt he knows.
      Relay is easy if it's that, is it easy to access the solenoid and jump/arc it without removing pieces of the bike to confirm?
      Does Yamaha repair the the trans recall if not done?
      Oil pump drive gear sounds scary, What's up with that and how hard is it to replace?

    • davej
      davej commented
      Editing a comment
      The relay is located under the left side cover. I think the trans recall is still being honored but would have to check. If they will still do the recall they can install a new drive gear and only charge for the price of the part because the old one has to be removed to do the recall. If they don't honor the recall the oil drive gear is located behind the clutch basket and cost about $45 plus a cover gasket about $25-$30.

  • #3
    get the OEM starter from the seller, they are real easy to clean and fix, brush plates have known issues. ill buy it for 500

    Comment


    • Megasquirter
      Megasquirter commented
      Editing a comment
      thanks, the OEM starter is still on it, he only replaced the solenoid. How hard is it to remove the starter and what's the best way to clean the brush plates?

  • #4
    The starter is easy to remove but I would check the relay first. Use a screwdriver or other tool to jump across the 2 large cables on the relay with the key turned on and bike in Neutral. If the starter spins it is OK and the relay is bad.

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    • #5
      from Burlington, IA.

      Comment


      • #6
        Well you know....How about I save you a whole lot of work and aggravation and just buy the bike myself instead.

        Seriously, that should be a hell of a buy as there likely isn't much at all wrong with that bike. And, from Solon, IA.

        Comment


        • #7
          Sent you a pm

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          • #8
            Does Yamaha repair the the trans recall if not done?
            That party is over.

            Link:
            https://www.roadstarclinic.com/forum...all-is-retired
            ~Space For Rent~

            Comment


            • #9
              guys the owner sold the bike from underneath of me while I was on a 2 hr drive to him. Thanks for the welcome and help. Good news is, I'm going to look at a 2003 satin black with 13k miles for $1K tomorrow. It was a silverado that was converted to something else..lol has Bigger carb, ported intake, new pump, Fuel tank speedo removal mod, Speedo on aftermarket handlebars and some other stuff. Owner says it runs/shifts perfect but refers to it as warm blooded and needing to choke it for a mile down the road. I imagine that is either normalish or just in need of a carb adjustment? I'm probably going to buy it but I wanted to get your thoughts? Not sure how I feel about the handlebars and tank mod..No gauges!!

              Comment


              • Brad_G
                Brad_G commented
                Editing a comment
                Well that sucks that the other deal fell through. I hate when you're in route to buy something and the owner won't hold it and give you a chance to get there. But on the flip side I've had those guys with the "I'll take it" replies to an add and then you never hear another peep. But a courtesy call to you before selling it would have been a good thing.

            • #10
              using the choke a mile down the road is absolutely normal.

              Comment


              • #11
                Representing Scorpion Gulch, Arizona. My bike takes forever to warm up.

                Comment


                • #12
                  Wow that one looks good. Looks like aPatrick racing air cleaner on it. Good luck!

                  Comment


                  • #13
                    For your first Roadstar I HIGHLY recommend a stock/mostly stock one (pipes air filter etc ok)....the bike you described like a huge cluster fuck hot bed of problems total nightmare. Spend $2k and get a stock/mostly stock Roadstar In perfect shape....they are out there I've been looking...found several in the $1800-200 asking price range....which means they can be naught for less. All that weird fancy shit you described on the $1000 bike sound like a huge pain in the ass to be honest that doesn't run right.

                    these bikes are so nice, dependable, comfortable, good sounding, torquey, cool looking, long lasting, head ache free machines to begin with its a shame tonhave your fist experience with one be such an oddly modified bike...

                    Comment


                    • #14
                      I agree with Lug Nut. You can do Far better than that for not much more money. Just be patient. *Your* bike will arrive soon.

                      Comment


                      • #15
                        too late guys, I already bought it. And Lug Nut was correct, after getting it back to my house in some light(Dark when I bought it), it's far from perfect because it's been hacked into it's current situation and has Quite a bit of corrosion on some parts and the tank speedo delete was done kinda poorly. With that being said, it is what it is, I'll probably ride it for a bit, fix some things and then sell it. the title says 5600 miles, he said he rode it about 15 times and guesses at 10K current miles . Engine does sound nice though and its powerful.

                        Here are some things I need some help with or some info to help me get started.
                        1.) Grip Sizes? not sure if these handle bars are different size..
                        2.) Spark plug #?
                        3.) speedo looks good but the guy only wired the switched 12v and not the wire that reads speed. Does anyone know where/what color wire I'm looking for to get a speed reading? recitifer possibly?
                        4.) Front seat does not latch... no latch at all on it.. If I can obtain a latch is there a way to rig it up to work (I'm assuming I cant get it back to the way it was)
                        5.) sorta concerned about the fuel pump/carb situation, it sounds like he got the bike with a gravity feed supply and then installed a Fuel pump and regulator after he put on the bigger carb/ported intake. (not sure what mm carb I have, any easy way to find out?). He mentioned that if it's running for a long time and gets really hot, the carb will drop a lil fuel. He said that's why he installed the regulator but it had no effect. I'm assuming the carb needs adjusted or rebuilt? It does seem to be running on the rich side. Regulator and filter protruding from near the right side ofseat, so I'm not sure that's right.

                        I'm sure I'll have more questions soon and will post some pics. once I get her cleaned up a bit. I appreciate any and all your help!



                        Comment


                        • #16
                          grip size is 1"

                          plug is a NGK DPR7EIX-9 Gap .031-.035

                          seat latch https://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-Yamaha...QAAOSwMoZdueTs There is an easy mod to make this release with a short remote cable

                          It sounds as if it has a stock carb on it that has what we call carb puke. It can be corrected by going back to pumpless. Lets verify that it is the OEM carb and then we can get you back to being pumpless and jetted correctly.

                          Hope this helps some

                          Comment


                          • #17
                            Thanks Dave! 1" grip on both sides, correct? any clue to where I could find the speedo signal wire? or a schematic I can trace it down? I'll Verify what carb on it and we will go from there but he did say that he installed a larger carb. Does it come factory gravity fed or with a pump?appreciate it.

                            Comment


                            • #18
                              Sell that fucking thing and buy a more stock bike if you want to ride it. .if you want to screw around working on someone else's hack job and dump hundreds of hours and $$ into a project that will be worth $500 when it's all sorted out and have nonriding time and lots of frustration then by all means keep your current bike.

                              these are cheap old metric bikes with almost nill resale value when nice....and none when hacked up. They are perfect cruisers until someone gets around hold of one and starts cutting and hacking.

                              Comment


                              • #19
                                It comes factory with a pump but no regulator. Who knows what kind of pump he installed. The aftermarket larger carb would be a HSR cab and they are not prone to overflow or puke. They are also set up for gravity feed. The only thing that would make a HSR carb drip is a float level set too high and it would drip from the float bowl overflow tube. I would post a pic of both carbs but for some reason the site won't let me post them. maybe a link will work

                                Here is a link to a pic of the stock carb https://www.ebay.com/itm/2771-03-Yam...gAAOSwbsNdYElQ

                                here is a link to the larger HSR carb. https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...253D%2522%257D

                                Comment


                                • #20
                                  I just confirmed that it is the HSR Carb., since its suppose to be setup for gravity feed, im not sure what to think. l'm going to run it for awhile today and see if and where it leaks. Regulator appears to be on 0 setting, so I believe it wide open.

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