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  • Starter Relay?

    I got ready to leave this morning after a breakfast run and I just got a click with the starter button. I rocked the bike back in gear - no help so the starter wasn't in a bad spot. I was getting ready to remove the side panel and bridge the contacts when I tried it twice more and it started on the second try. This has never happened in 20+ years and I'm thinking the relay is bad. It is the original relay. I have tried it several times since I got home and it turns over every time. It couldn't have been any of the safety switches or the relay wouldn't have clicked. Anyone here experienced this?
    Scott B.

  • #2
    I have never experienced it on my bike but have seen that happen on other vehicles many times. Especially the old Fords. It sounds like you are on the right track with thinking relay. Bad part is that as long as it is working there is really no way to check it because it will appear as if it is good. About the only other thing you could do if you want to eliminate others things is to check and clean the starter button switch and check/clean/tighten cable connections.

    Comment


    • texasscott1
      texasscott1 commented
      Editing a comment
      All of the connections are tight and the starter switch is okay I think because it clicked every time I pushed it and it just takes a light touch. I think I'll go ahead and order a relay. Thanks.

  • #3
    1 Thing for sure that after all those years and still being the original relay you got alot of service from it.

    Comment


    • texasscott1
      texasscott1 commented
      Editing a comment
      Those years are beginning to worry me a little, all of the electrical stuff on the bike is original. With the exception of the headlight all of the bulbs are original. Now I take that back, I had to replace the tank sending unit and the speedometer.

  • #4
    Have you checked the starter brush plate? They are known to crack at the 90 degree bends and will continue to work intermittently for some time while broken. At the very least I would pull the starter apart and have a look, parts are available to repair.

    Comment


    • #5
      I had it apart not that long ago, polished the commutator and lubed the end plate. If I understand that condition correctly there will be a load at the starter even if the piece is broken. There was no load when this happened.
      Scott B.

      Comment


      • daveto
        daveto commented
        Editing a comment
        When apart did you have the brushes and mounting tab removed? I couldn’t see mine broken until I took it apart and had 3 separate pieces.

      • texasscott1
        texasscott1 commented
        Editing a comment
        No I didn't but when I removed and reinstalled the armature there was no movement when I compressed each brush. Everything was tight. I seem to remember reading that when that piece was broken the starter would at least try to work. In my situation the starter made no noise whatsoever. The only noise was the loud click from the relay. I wish I had gotten the chance to bridge the terminals on the relay then I would have known for sure. Meanwhile the cheapest OEM relay I can find is $53 so I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet.

        When it finally did start the starter spun at its normal speed and the engine kicked off after about 1 revolution.

        Thanks for your help.

    • #6
      I’m sure after 20 years if passing decent current to the starter through those contacts in the relay, they have seen better days.

      Comment


      • #7
        It could keep working until it stuck leaving me rushing to try and disconnect the battery. I had already decided that if that ever happened I would leave the engine running so the starter wouldn't be pulling a big load and overheating until I could disconnect.
        Scott B.

        Comment


        • davej
          davej commented
          Editing a comment
          good idea. Might keep it from burning.

        • Spydr
          Spydr commented
          Editing a comment
          Originally posted by texasscott1 View Post
          It could keep working until it stuck leaving me rushing to try and disconnect the battery.
          Been there, Done that! Early this year, in fact!

      • #8
        Well, I’ve been jinxed. Started acting up and by the end of the day it just clicked, and clicked.......

        I had to remove the cover and jump the relay to get home.

        Boy, they’re proud of the OEM replacements. $$$

        Oh, the total, before tax, is with shipping added. They tax shipping, now? Damn.
        Total Before Tax:
        Estimated Tax:
        Order Total:
        $74.02
        $6.11
        $80.13

        Comment


        • #9
          I only use the stock relay to energize a Ford relay. with only a couple amps going thru the stock relay it should last for years

          Comment


          • #10
            I think trying to start the R* with a battery not fully charged or any other weak link in the system can lead to premature relay failure.

            Comment


            • #11
              There is a good chance of that. Remember the lower the voltage is the higher the amperage is.

              Comment


              • #12
                It was cranking slower than normal just before it failed, but when I jumped it with the box end of a 10mm wrench it spun the starter like I hit it with 24 volts. Tells me the contacts within must be burnt pretty bad and barely passing current.

                Just for shits and giggles, I’m going to bust the old one open and take a look-see @ just how bad the contacts really are.

                Comment


                • davej
                  davej commented
                  Editing a comment
                  post pics

                • Bikerron
                  Bikerron commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Will do.

              • #13
                I never started mine with a low battery which is probably why it lasted so long. The original 1600's had a relay rated at 100 amps. With the 1700's I read that the relay was updated to something like 180 amps. With the updates to the part number you'll probably get the higher amperage rating with whatever year your buying for.
                Scott B.

                Comment


                • Bikerron
                  Bikerron commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Well, tried to open an account there and after I submit my info it just keeps kicking me back to the ‘create an account’ page.

                • texasscott1
                  texasscott1 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I think I ordered as a guest. I'm a little confused about the website now. It could be this one - https://www.powersportswarehouse.com I noticed their prices have changed. Maybe they were having a special when I ordered.

                • Bikerron
                  Bikerron commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Went there, too, and hit the add to cart button and nothing happens. (Cart is still empty). These relays have mysteriously dried up. Can’t find one anywhere.

                  Even our sponsor, Rock River, doesn’t have them.

                  Such bullshit.

              • #14
                My battery, a Yuasa, is less than a year old and has always fired off the ‘08 within a chuff, or two.

                It’s just been the past couple weeks it hesitated with the ‘click’, but second attempts netted a running engine.

                Yesterday was the relay’s last day on the job.

                Comment


                • #15
                  Well, just to keep rolling I ordered a cheap one off eBay, and as mentioned in earlier posts, no one had the OEM relay in stock. Even found one and ordered it only to find it was on back order and had to request a refund. Partzilla has been pushing the expecting ‘back in stock’ date since this thread started.

                  The one I received had a Made in Taiwan label on it. Better than China, I thought.

                  FF to today and it hung while starting. Turned the key to unlatch the seat and back to ON so the bike would run while I ran to get a wrench to disconnect the battery.

                  I finally found a supplier and ordered an OEM relay. I haven’t heard back, as of yet, stating in would be on back order.

                  I’m keeping my fingers crossed.

                  Comment


                  • #16
                    The warrior relay is stronger...but you have to wore it kind of backwards....
                    "I'm Ricky Bobby. If you don't chew Big Red.....then Fuck You"

                    Comment


                    • Bikerron
                      Bikerron commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Yessir. No rewiring needed. You just remove the fuse buss connection (held on with snaps) from your original relay and install it on the Warrior relay. Just moves the feed from the battery to the bike’s electrics to the other post on the relay.

                      http://people.delphiforums.com/new_r...rterRelay.html

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