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  • Horsehammerr
    replied
    I replaced my Regulator with an OEM 1600 part . I'm charging at 4.48 at all RPM's above 1500 . Could a Battery Maintainer of 1.5 watts over charge a battery ? Mines a Shumaker that shuts off auto when charge is reached and only comes on if battery trikkles down . Like over a month plus , during winter storage.

    Leave a comment:


  • MikeyC
    commented on 's reply
    I thought the reg/rec was grounded thru the mounting bolts.

  • Bikerron
    commented on 's reply
    Yessir.
    What kind of output were you getting to the battery when it is charging?

    And, a float charger every night is an overkill to me.

    I don’t dig mine out unless it’s going to sit for a month or two.

  • Horsehammerr
    replied
    Will an '05 1700 Regulator work on an '01 1600 ? Tim Parrot rewound my '01 1600 Stator to '05 charge specs. 5 years ago and the regulator he sent seems to have died . No doubt OEM on replacement , just wonder about upgrading . The 1600 regulator lasted 5 years but , I've had to replace my battery every year . Yes I plugin my maintainer when ever it is going to sit for more than over night.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bikerron
    commented on 's reply
    I think you already have. These regulators shunt extra voltage to ground to keep the feed to the battery constant. When that process breaks down it’ll throw more to the battery.

    The permanent magnet alternator in motorcycles outputs higher and higher voltage (and power) as the engine revs up.

    The voltage regulators job is to limit the voltage to about 14.4 Volts by dissipating the extra power that does not get used by the battery, lights, etc. That's why motorcycle regulators have big metal fins and should be out in free air. If this regulator fails, then all that extra power gets pushed into overcharging your battery.

  • Horsehammerr
    replied
    Why is my battery charging at 15.8+ and continuously climbing as i get past 3,000 rpm ? What is the proper method to test my Regulator ?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jclevesque
    replied
    It does sound like he is only checking at idle. It may be charging good all along if thats thr case.

    Leave a comment:


  • davej
    replied
    Originally posted by Doc_V View Post
    Did you try just disconnecting the headlight bulb with the fuse in place? If not, give that a try and be sure to check how many watts the bulb is. Lots of people put higher wattage bulbs it and it could be sucking down the juice. I believe stock is 35/55w. Maybe someone else can confirm that.
    A couple post up he said the customer picked up the bike "as is" so he don't have it anymore to check anything else. I was just curious if all testing was done at idle instead of reving up the engine. If so it won't charge in the upper 13's and 14V range. He said something in his last post that makes it sound as if he never reved it up to check charge.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    replied
    Did you try just disconnecting the headlight bulb with the fuse in place? If not, give that a try and be sure to check how many watts the bulb is. Lots of people put higher wattage bulbs it and it could be sucking down the juice. I believe stock is 35/55w. Maybe someone else can confirm that.

    Leave a comment:


  • davej
    replied
    Originally posted by Qkenuf4u View Post
    Lmao.. So first start up w headlight fuse pulled n it charged perfectly @ 14.5v or so... Messing around trying to track down exactly where the problem is n voltage just kept getting lower n lower till back to square one (even w headlight fuse out) ...
    New battery it would atleast charge close to 13v.. Old battery back in n it goes to 12.8v or so (w headlight fuse pulled) ..
    Maybe just getting to hot sitting here idling..
    So are you saying that all this testing and volt readings were all at idle? Are you saying that your test wasn't done at around 2500 rpm?

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  • scottw
    replied
    Just for Ha Ha's your are you sure your voltmeter is reading properly by trying a 2nd (know good!) volt meter as a verification of the 1st meters readings?

    Scott

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  • Qkenuf4u
    replied
    Lmao.. So first start up w headlight fuse pulled n it charged perfectly @ 14.5v or so... Messing around trying to track down exactly where the problem is n voltage just kept getting lower n lower till back to square one (even w headlight fuse out) ...
    New battery it would atleast charge close to 13v.. Old battery back in n it goes to 12.8v or so (w headlight fuse pulled) ..
    Maybe just getting to hot sitting here idling..

    Leave a comment:


  • Qkenuf4u
    replied
    Customer is gonna take it as is since he's heading home in a few weeks (new Zealand) .. So out here putting it back together n figured.. What the heck ill put in the new battery that I fully charged last night...
    Its smaller but starts bike fine.. Weird thing is it actually charges at 12.7-13v .. (Fully charged Old battery stopped at 12.5v) .. So not fixed but might work ok for riding around a bit.. I told him to keep a back up plan in mind if bike won't start or shuts off on him....

    WTF... Omen of a bike..

    Leave a comment:


  • davej
    replied
    Originally posted by Qkenuf4u View Post

    Lol you all will be the second to know if it all works out...
    it shows good as long as either the reg isn't plugged in or the stator is unplugged..

    I'll take it 2nd to know isn't a bad place.

    Leave a comment:


  • Qkenuf4u
    replied
    Originally posted by davej View Post
    Without being there to see and check I can't give any more advice other than If you have good output from the stator the stator is good if your rec/reg has good input then the circuit is good between the stator and the reg/rec. If not good input then the problem is between the reg/rec and the stator. if this is good to this point and you have good input to the reg/rec and bad output from the reg/rec then the reg is bad, if good output from the reg but bad at the battery the problem is somewhere between the reg and the battery. That is the only way I know to narrow it down. There has to be a charging wire in the plug that is plugged into the starter relay in order for it to get to the short pos battery cable to reach the battery. I'm not sure what color it is but it would be a larger ga wire. That would also be a good check point. With this said I'm out but will be watching and crossing my fingers that you find the issue and let us know what you found. Don't disappear and not tell us like a lot of others have done.
    Lol you all will be the second to know if it all works out...
    it shows good as long as either the reg isn't plugged in or the stator is unplugged..

    Leave a comment:


  • davej
    replied
    Without being there to see and check I can't give any more advice other than If you have good output from the stator the stator is good if your rec/reg has good input then the circuit is good between the stator and the reg/rec. If not good input then the problem is between the reg/rec and the stator. if this is good to this point and you have good input to the reg/rec and bad output from the reg/rec then the reg is bad, if good output from the reg but bad at the battery the problem is somewhere between the reg and the battery. That is the only way I know to narrow it down. There has to be a charging wire in the plug that is plugged into the starter relay in order for it to get to the short pos battery cable to reach the battery. I'm not sure what color it is but it would be a larger ga wire. That would also be a good check point. With this said I'm out but will be watching and crossing my fingers that you find the issue and let us know what you found. Don't disappear and not tell us like a lot of others have done.

    Leave a comment:


  • Qkenuf4u
    replied
    Ok so played w plugs n harness .. No change..

    Leave a comment:


  • Qkenuf4u
    replied
    Originally posted by Doc_V View Post
    Good news for me, not so good for you. Turns out you're right about the meter. The bike has been sitting a while and I got 12.5v at the terminals with the key off. Motor running, it started at 12.8v and leveled off at 14.2v after about a minute. Oh well.
    LOL dam...

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc_V
    replied
    Good news for me, not so good for you. Turns out you're right about the meter. The bike has been sitting a while and I got 12.5v at the terminals with the key off. Motor running, it started at 12.8v and leveled off at 14.2v after about a minute. Oh well.

    Leave a comment:


  • Qkenuf4u
    replied
    Originally posted by Doc_V View Post
    Did the customer ever complain about the problem before you tested it? Again, like I said earlier, Roadstars are known for weak charging systems. It doesn't take much to put a strain on the system and suck up the power. The customer may not have even known he had a problem. My bike has an aftermarket volt meter that reads 11 volts when I turn the key on; and that's even with new YUASA battery. With the motor running, it reads right at 12 volts, only peaking at 13 once in a brief while. Technically you could say there's a problem, but it works fine. It's *possible* you may be chasing a problem that really isn't an issue for the customer.

    lol he said it was fine last year while riding it... It does have a set of extra lights up front that are always on (wired in by his buddy) ...
    I know the stator was bad from the tests I performed (was only putting out like 30 ACV) that's the whole reason behind doing the repair....
    but if yours is reading that low then I guess it could very well be perfectly fine now (those volt meters read a volt or more low from my experience) what's it read at your battery posts ? (Bike off, bike running)

    Leave a comment:

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