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  • #21
    Originally posted by Jeaston View Post
    replace the battery
    Played that game. No difference.. Battery charges fine n load tests fine..,

    Comment


    • #22
      Tcontrol its a xv1600a not a 1700... My service manual shows a ground off reg .. But its a short wire n not back to battery.. But not seeing that on actual bike.. Only found one manual for this bike (factory manual) . I found the same pic that DOC_V shared
      80 ACV @ reg plug
      stator ohms out fine between whites , 80 ACV between whites n nothing to ground
      ground @ reg plug
      Battery voltage @ reg plug on red
      battery voltage @ reg plug between red/black
      plugs tight n clean

      I said all this already in the above conversation but here it is again..

      tanks off now.. I'll keep looking.. Highly Doubtful but always possible that both the NEW oem n new Chinese regs are bad..

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      • #23
        K so ground from reg is actually at battery. (White single wire plug) clean n tight, ohms out fine..

        Fudge I hate electrical ...

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        • #24
          Load test battery at auto parts store..... if it checks out... buy new regulator... just plug it all in and fire it up.... check battery voltage with bike off... then start bike and hold about 2000 rpm and check voltage again.... voltage should be higher than initially measured... unlike a car... not going to measure 14.6 volts... probably about 14.2 volts DC... the roadstar charging system just doesn’t have the power to spare like a car charging system. A decent digital voltmeter can ensure accurate measurement.

          Please do not try to test the new regulator by individual terminals. improper techniques can fry the regulator as easily as a bad stator or overheating....

          the 1700 has pretty much the same charge system as a 1600 except the 1700 stator has a slightly larger current capacity... the pic was for a visual referance of what the charge system consists of.... easily conceptialized by that particilar print...

          just tried to help you understand the way the charging system is designed... many people get quite puzzled by electrical circuits and troubleshooting... figured that a simplified theory would help you troubleshoot effectively.... your initial short-hand explanation may have been clear to you but I wanted clarity of your measurement points of reference.... (at the regulator plug to ensure the regulator sees all the proper voltages thus eliminating wiring harness/plug issues from upstream/downstream of the device)

          new parts do not always mean “functioning” parts.... especially electrical.... there is a certain technique in troubleshooting electrical problems that makes it much easier to pinpoint the problem.... just trying to assist you.... not insult you.

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          • #25
            Tcontrol ... Every test that's been recommended has been done multiple times... It all checks out good..
            As I said I'm a tech for a living so not my first rodeo.. But this one has me scratching my head...
            I'm sending the new oem reg back n ill try another one...

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            • #26
              diode ?
              Is the word PICTURE a picture?

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              • #27
                Originally posted by Jeaston View Post
                diode ?
                ? I'm not seeing a diode in the charging system... other than the reg/rec..

                guess im ordering a stator cover gasket and pulling the stator again to see if i somehow pinched a wire.. ohms test shows nothing but good but i have no where else to go with this problem...
                Click image for larger version

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                • #28
                  I'm thinking if you pinched a wire, you'd see one (or more) of the 3 wires grounded. I assume you checked continuity between each of the wires and ground? There should be infinite ohms between these wires and ground. If any wire reads zero ohms, a short exists. Then you either need to repair the bad wire, or you need a stator. Here is a 20% discount code at RMStator.com if you need one. YOT20XT. I've got RM units in both my Max and Roadstar, they both work really well. They're listed as High Output units. One good point is that the 3 wires coming out of the unit are 3 feet long. If you get a Series regulator, they should be long enough to reach up under the seat where you can safely mount it, because it doesn't get hot. Mounting the regulator under the seat makes it simple to run the output wires right to the battery, too.
                  The Shindengen SH775 unit takes the same connectors as the earlier MOSFET units. These Furukawa connectors are available on Amazon or EBay. Another source is Eastern Beaver.

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                  • #29
                    Click image for larger version

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                    I know this is for a 2003 listing.
                    Is the word PICTURE a picture?

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                    • #30
                      Check out number 15 in the pic
                      Is the word PICTURE a picture?

                      Comment


                      • #31
                        bseward... OFL to ground as it should be
                        New stator to be exact.. Still shows OFL but I'm gonna pull stator cover again n make sure nothing got rubbed/pinched..
                        jeaston... I'll look for that but haven't seen in my searching so far... Dont see it in my service manual wiring schematic either..

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                        • #32
                          Stator wires all good.. Sucks I did that for nothing..

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                          • #33
                            Not nothing... You did narrow it down a bit. At least you're sure the wires are ok. Just a thought, did you check resistance between the 3 wires? That should also be infinite ohms. If any combination of those 3 wires is shorted to each other, you still may have a bad stator. Try all combinations of the 3 wires.

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                            • #34
                              Originally posted by BSeward View Post
                              Not nothing... You did narrow it down a bit. At least you're sure the wires are ok. Just a thought, did you check resistance between the 3 wires? That should also be infinite ohms. If any combination of those 3 wires is shorted to each other, you still may have a bad stator. Try all combinations of the 3 wires.
                              Not sure where you get ur spec.. Every stator I've ever checked in my career shows resistance between the 3 whites/yellows but OFL to ground.. They all show the same between. (1.1 ohm or so) n OFL to ground.. Just as they should..

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                              • #35
                                No diode on the 02..

                                Comment


                                • #36
                                  I stand corrected. That was a brain fart on my part... Damn, getting old sucks, I apologize for the mistake. In the case of the Vmax stator, the correct resistance was around .4 to .6 ohms, if memory serves me. Again, apologies for the error.

                                  Comment


                                  • #37
                                    I'm to the point I wanna try a shindengen reg on this thing... I've installed a bunch over the years...

                                    Comment


                                    • #38
                                      If you have the correct inputs to the reg/rec and don't have a good charging voltage coming out the the reg/rec is bad. If proper charging voltage is coming out of the reg/rec trace everything between the reg and the battery. Keep in mind that charge voltage has to go thru the Starter solenoid to get back to the battery with only 1 cable going to the battery and no aux charging wire of any kind.

                                      I bought a riding lawnmower a couple days ago that had a new battery in it but the guy said the mower wouldn't charge and it had to be jump started. When I got there sure enough Battery was dated 2/2018 and it had to be jump started. When I got it home I had to jump it to get it off the trailer and noticed the battery cables were loose but they were tight enough so that it would still jump start. I cleaned and tightened the cables and it was now charging 14.1 volts. Just sayin. could your issue be so simple?

                                      Comment


                                      • #39
                                        Originally posted by davej View Post
                                        If you have the correct inputs to the reg/rec and don't have a good charging voltage coming out the the reg/rec is bad. If proper charging voltage is coming out of the reg/rec trace everything between the reg and the battery. Keep in mind that charge voltage has to go thru the Starter solenoid to get back to the battery with only 1 cable going to the battery and no aux charging wire of any kind.

                                        I bought a riding lawnmower a couple days ago that had a new battery in it but the guy said the mower wouldn't charge and it had to be jump started. When I got there sure enough Battery was dated 2/2018 and it had to be jump started. When I got it home I had to jump it to get it off the trailer and noticed the battery cables were loose but they were tight enough so that it would still jump start. I cleaned and tightened the cables and it was now charging 14.1 volts. Just sayin. could your issue be so simple?
                                        New oem reg (sent back)
                                        2x new Chinese regs (just to check if oem wasnt working)
                                        Every thing to n from the reg shows perfect.. But 3 different regs n it doesn't work soon as ya plug it in..
                                        pulled stator cover yesterday to inspect wires. All perfect, nothing cut/pinched...

                                        I really am at the point in gonna hang a shindengen off it n bypass the factory wiring (even though it all shows good)

                                        Comment


                                        • #40
                                          Originally posted by davej View Post
                                          If you have the correct inputs to the reg/rec and don't have a good charging voltage coming out the the reg/rec is bad. If proper charging voltage is coming out of the reg/rec trace everything between the reg and the battery. Keep in mind that charge voltage has to go thru the Starter solenoid to get back to the battery with only 1 cable going to the battery and no aux charging wire of any kind.

                                          I bought a riding lawnmower a couple days ago that had a new battery in it but the guy said the mower wouldn't charge and it had to be jump started. When I got there sure enough Battery was dated 2/2018 and it had to be jump started. When I got it home I had to jump it to get it off the trailer and noticed the battery cables were loose but they were tight enough so that it would still jump start. I cleaned and tightened the cables and it was now charging 14.1 volts. Just sayin. could your issue be so simple?
                                          New oem reg (sent back)
                                          2x new Chinese regs (just to check if oem wasnt working)
                                          Every thing to n from the reg shows perfect.. But 3 different regs n it doesn't work soon as ya plug it in..
                                          pulled stator cover yesterday to inspect wires. All perfect, nothing cut/pinched...

                                          I really am at the point in gonna hang a shindengen off it n bypass the factory wiring (even though it all shows good)

                                          Comment

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