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  • Ok heres a new one...

    02 xv1600a Silverado
    no charging
    Stator bad
    Stator replaced (OEM)
    Reg/rec replaced (OEM)
    Not charging over 12.5-8v
    stator puts out 80v+
    Good wiring from reg to battery (.02 to .08 ohms)
    good ground (bike fires off fine)
    Ok so here's the zinger....
    Reg UNPLUGGED n it has 80v+ at 3 whites @ 2k rpm
    Reg PLUGGED IN n it has 11v WTF
    plug is in perfect shape. Not burned , dirty etc..

  • #2
    I'm assuming you checked all the connectors, including grounding? If you have an aux items, disconnect them from the battery for testing. Beyond that I got nuttin. I HATE electrical gremlins.. Best of luck!

    Comment


    • #3
      Doc_v... No accessories.. Plugs are all good.. Only ground in the system would be the battery ground to frame/engine.. If it was bad the bike wouldn't fire off as well as it does.. Reg/rec shouldn't need any ground other than the black to the battery (shows perfect ohms) , stator tests perfect (I hope so, it's brand new) ...

      Comment


      • #4
        Did you try plugging the old reg back in to see what happens?

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by davej View Post
          Did you try plugging the old reg back in to see what happens?
          it was good but went on another customers quad n it's not in the shop anymore... But I have a new OEM Reg here n a new Chinese reg here now n they both do the same..

          Comment


          • #6
            Toss the Chinese reg in the trash or give it to someone you don't like. I'd still check the connectors, these bikes vibrate like hell. [I've had *lots* of screws fall out.] It's always best to eliminate the simplest potential causes first. The connection could be fine while it's off, but once it's on it shakes loose and you don't get sufficient charge. I once had a problem where the motor cut out on the freeway above 70mph. Turned out to be a loose connector that was normally fine, but the wind above 70mph was enough to break the connection and it died. Also make sure your Multimeter is working, maybe borrow one from a local auto parts store, many have a tool loaning program. Again, eliminate the simple things first.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Doc_V View Post
              Toss the Chinese reg in the trash or give it to someone you don't like. I'd still check the connectors, these bikes vibrate like hell. [I've had *lots* of screws fall out.] It's always best to eliminate the simplest potential causes first. The connection could be fine while it's off, but once it's on it shakes loose and you don't get sufficient charge. I once had a problem where the motor cut out on the freeway above 70mph. Turned out to be a loose connector that was normally fine, but the wind above 70mph was enough to break the connection and it died. Also make sure your Multimeter is working, maybe borrow one from a local auto parts store, many have a tool loaning program. Again, eliminate the simple things first.
              Lol bikes sitting on the lift.
              So not vibrating anything apart/loose...
              Plugs are clean n not burned in any way,
              multi meter is working perfect,
              it does the same with both oem and Chinese reg in place,
              all wires to n from reg to battery ohm out perfect,
              it's definitely a head scratcher..

              I do this daily for a living so not my first rodeo....

              Battery load tests fine n starts bike fine until it gets run down of course.. (Charging again now) , but I'm gonna put a new battery i have sitting here in it to just eliminate that as a cause..

              Comment


              • #8
                Funny.. It charge better on,the Chinese reg 12.8v
                than the oem reg 12.5v

                Comment


                • TimB
                  TimB commented
                  Editing a comment
                  LOL For a short while maybe. FUCK china

              • #9
                Ok, so looking at service manual it shows the reg/rec being grounded ? Is it supposed to be ? That would answer all my questions if thats the case.. Hmmm

                Comment


                • #10
                  Nothing personal, we get all kinds through here so it's best not to make any assumptions. As far as grounding the rectifier, it sure looks that way. As for the Chinese rectifier, it's a crap shoot. Many here have tried to save a few bucks and go with aftermarket rectifiers, and the results haven't been good. You may be fine for a while, but it can crap out on you at any time, miles from home.,

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Comment


                  • #11
                    Lol yea i was trying to get that exact section to load but pic was to big... Guess I know my next move on Monday...

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      Well that was a bust.. Made my own ground from reg to battery n no change... WTF am I missing....

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        It hasn't been mentioned, checked the fuses?

                        Comment


                        • Doc_V
                          Doc_V commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Funny you should mention that. Back in my early 20s, I thought my radiator fan switch went, so I bought a new one, and was in such a hurry to install it, I did it by the roadside and burnt the crap out of my hand removing the old one, only to find out it was only a blown fuse. You can bet I never made that same mistake again.

                      • #14
                        You haven't mentioned it, but are you running any accessories; like passing lamps, or stereo, USB outlets, cigarette lighter outlet, GPS, or anything similar? The 1600s had a pretty weak charging system to begin with; it doesn't take much to overwhelm the charging system. The factory battery cables are also a pretty weak, many here upgrade the cables to a larger gauge for that very reason. Davej sells some nice ones.
                        Last edited by Doc_V; 02-24-2019, 07:40 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #15
                          My understanding...
                          stator ohmed out good from 1-2 and 1-3
                          puts out 80 volts without regulator... is that each leg to ground?
                          Did you check volts between 1-2 and 2-3 and 1-3?
                          regulator is new but drops voltage of stator when connected...
                          between legs or each leg to ground (11.1 volts) ?
                          regulator is grounded correctly..
                          connectors are all good

                          ............
                          confirm voltage between stator legs 1-2 and 2-3 and 1-3 without regulator plugged in... check it at plug for regulator to ensure voltage gets to regulator.... the regulator requires the voltage between legs to operate....

                          confirm main fuse is good.... easy check is to measure voltage to ground at regulator plug with bike not running.... I think the regulator needs a battery 12 volt hot before it can bias the internal transistor to allow the unit to begin charging.... I believe all voltage tests can be applied at the regulator plug.... (my diagram shows a fuse from battery to regulator... noted as Main Fuse)

                          I have been unable to load a photo of the electrical diagragm to clarify what I am seeing from the print.... Docs photo shows the “R” wire which comes from the battery... that wire should show 12 volts (battery voltage) with bike not running... if it doesnt... check main fuse and connectors...
                          thats pretty much all can suggest.....

                          Comment


                          • #16
                            It does have running lights but it should still charge more that 12.5v when revved..

                            do either of you know how this reg grounds out ?
                            Just through the bolts to frame ?
                            Actual grounding point other that battery ?
                            Bolt to frame under tank ?

                            yes it blows 80+ ACV at white plug by battery (unplugged) n drops to 11 ACV plugged in..
                            I even made my own ground from reg today but no change..

                            Yes battery voltage at reg on red/black wires
                            If it's not pushing 80v at the White plug then it's not pushing 80v at the reg plug..
                            I'll double check ACV at unplugged reg plug tomorrow (99.9% sure I did that)

                            If main fuse was bad bike wouldn't run
                            Same for the ignition fuse in fuse box

                            Its really cimung down to this ground for the reg which I'm not sure where it's at..

                            Comment


                            • #17
                              I replaced the regulator in my 1985 Vmax with a Series type Shindengen SH775 a couple years ago. I ran the output directly to the battery, both positive and ground. The resistance in the 30+ year old wiring harness was enough to drop the charge voltage to around 13 volts. After wiring direct to battery, the charge went up to 14.4 at 2000 rpm. I wrestled with lousy charging with that bike for 30 years and over 120,000 miles. It now charges and cranks over better than it ever did before.

                              I was so impressed with the way it worked on the Max, I got another one and modded the Roadie to use it. Now the Road Star charges as well as the Max does. I run a voltmeter on both bikes, and it never drops below 14.2 to 14.3 volts.

                              Shunt or MOSFET regulators dissipate excess current by sending it to ground. This makes them run hot, and puts a strain on stators, which can shorten stator life. Many people try to swap out lights to LEDs in an attempt to "save power" and get a better charge. The problem is that all the power you saved winds up going to ground, heating things up more, making the problem worse.. A stator is going to produce a certain amount of power at a certain RPM, no matter what load is demanded by the electrical system. The excess must be shunted to ground. Series regulators open the circuit from the stator coils when charge isn't needed, keeping everything cooler, and less stressful on stators. They can switch on and off almost instantly, as it's all done electronically. The Series regulators run cool enough to allow me to mount them under the seat without problem. A couple years ago I was at Thunder In The Valley in Johnstown PA, and I was explaining this to the guys we hang out with when we're there. They were skeptical about the unit running so cool, till I popped off the Roadies seat and showed them. We had just finished a 50 mile run on a hot day, and the reg was cool enough to lay your hand on with no problem.

                              If you can't trace the problem of low charge voltage down, I'd at least attempt to run output wires to battery directly. That may solve the problem for you. If you do wind up wiring it direct to battery, I would put a fuse in line to the positive wire to battery, just in case. I used a 30 amp fuse.

                              Comment


                              • #18
                                Bseward is correct.... the wiring harness may have some dirty connectors which is why i suggested voltage levels are tested at the regulator harness... the stator is a grounded core device... the voltages developed are between the wires of the stator... thats why it is helpful to know the volts between field wires which are applied to the regulator.... the regulator converts the sine wave of the stator to a dc voltage.... similar to a capacitor and bridge rectifier in an electronic circuit... additional internal electonic components control the voltage limits and current limits during a charge cycle... hence the bleed of excess current he discussed... energy dissapation equals heat generation.... thus the heat sink which keeps it cool...

                                A simple stator test would confirm continuity of the wire and check that the fields are not grounded to the core... pretty much how a three phase AC motor works and the servic manual discusses.

                                wire plugs on the harness do get dirty or loosen the pin/socket pinch action of the plug.... if its bad enough you see it as heat damage to the plug.... pretty common on light bulbs for a car... a fully charged battery is typically 13.6 volts no load. A bad cell in the battery can reduce this voltage or show as a faster discharge of the battery with a light load such as a car radio memory function... (the constant hot wire on the back of a car radio)...

                                the simplified theory to charge a battery is to apply a higher voltage than 13.6 volts DC which causes current to flow to the lower voltage device... equalization of voltages results in the battery storing the excess voltage as current... this is a very over simplified explanation.... the regulator thus limits the voltage and current to prevent overheating and burning out the battery cells by excess voltage/ current causing the battery to “heat” up and destroy the internals. (Lead acid, glass mat, lithium ion... same concept/ different technolgies)

                                the print for the 1700 shows several harness plugs between tthe battery and regulator. It also shows a battery tap to other devices such as lights, etc. etc..... please ensure that the full battery voltage is applied to the regulator “At The Regulator”... do not assume since the bike starts that all is well.... you may also wish to “Load Test” the battery to confirm it is in good shape... just because a battery can start your bike after a charge does not confirm a good battery...

                                electrical gremlins are usually traced to a bad connection... i have experienced that several times on my wifes car with different wire harness plugs causing the engine computer to enter the limp mode and then clear itself... drove me bananas until i took a can of contact cleaner after it and “tightened” some of the pin/socket connections...

                                Comment


                                • #19
                                  My work is done here... I'm going to step out and let the guys who actually know what they're talking about take over. Best of luck.

                                  Comment


                                  • #20
                                    replace the battery







                                    This space intentionally left blank

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