Stator/rectifier problem?

[coolalexrex]

2000 R*
1)Alex charges his bike in the garage
2)Alex fires up said bike
3)Alex gets on bike and starts to ride - yay!
4)Alex notices bike isn't happy, as it stops running
5)Alex pushes bike home, about 1/8 mile

I'm pretty tired of this routine, I've been thinking it was a carburetion problem, but now I'm thinking a charging problem - IDEAS?
I don't have electrical testing equipment...
Thanks y'all!

[MikeyC]

Where are you located? Member in the area might be able to help

[Brad_G]

You can get an electrical volt/ohm meter fairly inexpensively. They can be a valuable tool for electrical troubleshooting. Maybe you have someone you know that you can borrow one (or they can help you use it). I'd start with finding out what the voltage is when the bike is running. If it's low then the meter can be useful in testing the stator and rectifier.

[Shores]

Multimeters are available at most hardware stores for as cheap as $15. No reason to not have one in your tool arsenal.

[coolalexrex]

A (car/tuner) mechanic who rides a big Yama says I should just replace my battery. I'm not distrusting his word, but I've been on this forum since ~2009? - Longer than I think he's been on a bike. Further input? I'm listening to all before I peel off dollars...
Further perspective - the wife wants the "cheap junk bike" gone while her HD (a very pretty Sportie) rots in the corner with a shoddy set of gears...
I admit it's become a vandetta for me to be up and riding first

[Lug Nut]

Go ahead and spend a hundred bucks on a battery if you want to but without a voltmeter you don't know if the battery is bad or not...And if you want to spend $400 on good quality OEM replacement stator and rectifier you can do that too. And then after all of that you may not Have hit the problem yet. Get a voltmeter test the battery while it's sitting there turn the key on and watch the voltage as you start the bike. If it drops below 10 get a new battery first step

[Brad_G]

Do you know how old the battery is? It could be bad but a load test would be my first step before buying a new battery. Plus if it's good enough to start the bike, and the charging system is working as it should, I would suspect the bike would stay running unless you kill it

[Shores]

Would you pay money for surgery without a diagnosis? Don’t spend a dime until you check the specs on the battery and stator first.

[coolalexrex]

Will conduct testing asap.

[coolalexrex]

OK, multimeter procured. What do I do? The battery has been charging over night.

*Update: Just followed up with Lugnut's battery test. Dips well below 10, hardly even trying to start. So battery it is...Still reads 12V out of the bike, is this normal?

[Shotround]

take battery to an auto parts store. they have the good stuff to test the battery. next, clean the carb. make sure pms hasnt backed out.

[Shores]

OK, multimeter procured. What do I do? The battery has been charging over night.

Check the voltage on the battery with the motorcycle not running. Then have someone push the starter button while you continue to check the voltage as it is trying to start. If the voltage drops to about 10 volts or less, then the battery is bad.

[MikeyC]

Cool, set the meter to DC Volts, probably on the "20" Test the battery and make sure it took a charge, should read like 12.3 If it passed that put it in the bike and hook it up, put the leads to it and it should read 12.3, with the leads still on the battery try and start the bike while watching the meter. When you turn the key the voltage will drop a little, if it drops below 10v then the battery is probably bad. if it started the bike great. What is the voltage with the bike running? It should read 14v or maybe 14.3v. Post the results from those test and let guys look that over.

[coolalexrex]

Don't have the new battery yet, waiting until I know I can get out and ride a bit. I was warned by someone that a new battery may not be fully charged upon purchase, I've NEVER heard of that before, anyone? Once it's in and running, if I'm seeing 14V-14.3V I should be good, electrically?

[Shores]

Just because the battery shows good voltage when running or not running doesn't mean it has the strength to crank over the engine. Cranking with a load on the battery is the true test of its condition.

[coolalexrex]

Waiting until nicer weather, no sense in putting in a new battery just to let it sit. Next up: Carb puke again...I used to enjoy tinkering with cars/the bike - I'd really like to ride again - damn personal budget...

[Duke]

Make sure all connections are tight, Read the battery voltage, not running, 12.3 to 13. volts? Start the bike and read the voltage with the engine running. If the voltage is 13.5 to 14.6 with the engine running, then your charging system is working, and your battery is probably bad.

[Shotround]

OK, multimeter procured. What do I do? The battery has been charging over night.

*Update: Just followed up with Lugnut's battery test. Dips well below 10, hardly even trying to start. So battery it is...Still reads 12V out of the bike, is this normal?

if the battery is over 5 five years old. might as well get a replacement.

i also thought carb puke was solved by going pumpless or turning off the petcock a few minutes before shutting it off. since going pumpless, i still close the petcock at times. then wonder why it dies after a bit when i get back on it.

[MikeyC]

I always close the petcock and yes. Forget to open it again sometimes