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  • Handlebar Internal Wiring

    I'm working on my recently acquired 1999 XV1600 bobber-bike. I'm not digging the beach-style handlebars and was looking at how everything is set up. It appears that my handlebars are dimpled at the controls and the wiring passes inside the bars to between the risers, then passes through the triple-trees and into the headlight. The wiring at the control ends are soldered and I couldn't find anything to unplug. The wiring at the headlight end were factory-looking plugs, but they are too-big to pass through the handlebars.

    I'm guessing I need to cut open the black tubing to expose the wires between the triple trees and see if I can find splices to be able to pull the handlebars. I also don't think my controls are factory. The clutch and brake mounts are completely separate from the electrical boxes for lights/signals/horn and throttle/start/kill. Is this how it is setup on a stock bike? Pictures attached, and thanks so far for all the help this site has been!


  • #2
    Can you remove the wire connectors out of the plugs connectors?

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    • #3
      Yes those are factory switch boxes and clutch/brake mounts. You need a de-pinning tool to correctly remove the pins from the connectors so you can pull the wires through the bars. Make a drawing showing which color wire corresponds to the position on the connector so you can put the connector back together correctly. Several who add aftermarket bars will run the wires internally for a cleaner look. With beach bars It is doubtful the wires were extended by cutting and splicing, which is the norm if going with taller apes. Whoever did the work of running the wires internally on your bike did a very clean job with the covering of the wires and running them down through the triple tree.

      Rod

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      • #4
        Figure out what bars you want then figure out the length of wire you need. Then you'll know how much wire you have to preserve or chop off. Also consider what switches you want on your new bars or what you want them to look like. I usually convert my stock stuff over to some micro switches and relocate the ignition switch for an even cleaner look. Can help guide you through it when you get there.

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        • #5
          you can take the wires out of the plugs with a miniture flat screw driver with the sides filed down, i done all mine like that, then just bend the little tag back up to replace them
          Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before i can think straight

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          • #6
            That little bad boy is screaming for some flat bars or Apes
            Go ahead, I dare ya.

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            • #7
              Thanks for all the help so far. The only things working on the factory switches are the starter, kill switch, and headlight switch. I guess the clutch safety and brake light switch on the master cylinder are also working. The turn signals and horn do not currently work (I think the switches may be fine, but there are no signals on the bike and I haven't seen a horn yet).

              I've replaced numerous handlebars before but I've never done internal wiring. I will be going with shorter bars, probably either a low-rise or possibly even a drag bar. I usually use Bikemaster "Superbike" bars on all my 7/8" stuff, but being a 1" bar I need to find something else that is basically equivalent. Most 1" bars have options for dimples or non-dimpled. I guess I need the dimple if I'm going to do internal wiring (at least that's how these bars are).

              I will buy an unpinning tool and see what I've got after all this good weather coming my way passes (No rain and mid to upper 70's coming my way in Indiana for the next week).

              Comment


              • #8
                I agree, those bars are hideous on that bike.

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                • #9
                  You don't necessarily need dimpled bars for your internal wiring. The dimple is more of an HD thing to keep controls and switch housings locked in. Unless your switch housings have that little prong...

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